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Recommendations for Alternator for IO360

Dandlac58

Well Known Member
Hi Vans Friends.

I would like to receive recommendations for a new alternator (with voltage regulator) for my IO360 in my RV7A.

Or if you think an alternator with an external regulator is the way to go, Im still listening.

Thanks very much.

Dan
 
I have a B&C LX-60 (externally regulated) alternator. Very happy with it over the last 60 plus hours. I just installed a monkworkz backup generator. Engine is an IO-360-M1B engine. Happy happy so far.
 
Depends on many factors. Based on what I've read, not on personal experience, today I'd just install a single monkworkz and be done with it. This is fine if your running load is less than 30A - which is very often the case.

If you are replacing a failed alternator, and are good with electrons, the B&C with external regulator has a great reputation.

Van's recommends the Plane Power/Hartzell, which is what I have, and it works fine. Hartzell (HEC) also give excellent support in my experience.

More details on your situation and goals will help you get a more useful answer.
 
My Equipment Load

This airplane has a substantial list of electronics. I did not build it, I bought it..

I think I have a failing alternator, or at least the internal regulator as I am getting a high voltage warning on my EFIS, and it was set to throw the alarm at an already high 17 volts. So, if the regulator is failing, I will have to replace the alternator, which I dont know what make and model it is.

a. GRT EFIS
b. GRT EIS
c. GNS 430W
d. SL40
e. GTX 327 Transponder
f. Uavionix Echo ADSB In/Out
g. LED landing lights on both wings
h. Three point strobe system
i. Electronic Emag ignition on both sides
f. Power my IPAD via the aircraft's power.
g. Electric Flaps
h. Electric back up attitude indicator
i. Tru Trak Autopilot with GPS course following and altitude hold

So with everything turned on, it has quite a draw of amps.

Dan
 
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Ditto

I agree with Butch, my B&C with external regulator has given me 1400 hrs of trouble free service. You need to fix your high voltage issue before you “toast” your avionics.
 
I agree with Butch, my B&C with external regulator has given me 1400 hrs of trouble free service. You need to fix your high voltage issue before you “toast” your avionics.

Tim,

You are right! It doesnt fly again until I figure out what is going on.

Dan
 
B&C +1

B&C is the gold standard for alternators. Some dislike the separate voltage regulator but I think this is a plus as you can locate in a more vibration free cooler environment.

For a quick fix and to get back home would turning off the field via breaker or switch (provided you are getting over-voltage) work? Issues?
 
B&C is the gold standard for alternators. Some dislike the separate voltage regulator but I think this is a plus as you can locate in a more vibration free cooler environment.

For a quick fix and to get back home would turning off the field via breaker or switch (provided you are getting over-voltage) work? Issues?

Luckily Im home, the avionics made it back. So now I have to open the cowling and see how much voltage is coming out of the alternator.

Im thinking if it is more than 15 volts I need to replace the alternator with its integrated regulator. I intend to simply put a volt meter on the alternator output lug and determine the output voltage.

Thoughts?

Im thinking B&C is looking better all the time.
 
B&C hands down. Buy it, install it, and you’ll never regret it!
 
B&C hands down. Buy it, install it, and you’ll never regret it!

Thanks David, that is a strong endorsement, along with the others who have said the same, it is clear the route I should take!

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
 
B&C just works the best

Well engineered many inspections and specifically made for A/C . yes its more money but you really get a quality product for the money , the external Regulator is bulletproof. With our planes so Electron dependent its good to spend the money where it counts

Peter
Many years in an Automotive Electronics career......
 
One of the guys at B&C is a guy I used to work with at brand C. I trust him and the quality of the product, so that's what I'm going with.

FYI- depending on your configuration, the price is about a wash between B&C and the Plane power setup from Vans. Both about 1 AMU.
 
Thats a great price... Im guessing I would have to fabricate mounting brackets?

I have the L40 B&C on my RV6. Max current draw is about 10-13 amps, so a 40a alternator is fine on this airplane. On the six RV’s I’ve had, I’ve had 3 PP alternators, and 3 B&C’s. Never had a failure with a B&C. I’ve had 2 failures with the PP’s. Customer support on the PP’s was very good - they replaced the alternator both times, but B&C didn’t have to do that. The PP alternator, like most automotive derived alternators that we use today, are internally regulated. My B&C alternators have always been externally regulated. I don’t know if this has anything to do with alternator reliability, but for me, that is the difference that I notice. Whichever way you go, if you plan on flying IFR, or at night, make sure you have some sort of backup, either battery or a SB alternator.
 
Another plus for the B&C set up is that the VR has built in crowbar over voltage protection. Look,,,,I am probably more frugal than most other builders. Back when I built my RV-10, I just did not want to spend the high dollars for the B&C set up. After much research, I settled on the Suzuki Samurai alternator. Ordered a Nippon brand new, not an overhaul, and added the little B&C crowbar over voltage protection module to the set up. I got 90 hours out of that alternator before it gave up the ghost on a cross country flight. Fortunately, I had a dual PC-680 Odyssey battery system that had plenty of juice to get me home. Replaced with the B&C that a friend encouraged me to use in the first place.
The first thing I did when I bought my current -9A project was to replace the automotive based alternator and the Skytec starter with a B&C package.
 
Investigate, food for thought

You might find that the alternator you need to replace is a common Nippon Denso automotive alternator, so the bracket will not have to be changed if you use the same alternator again.

You'll be back in the air for the best cost and time invested.

Next, consider adding a Monkworks alternator to your vacuum pad on the back of the engine and now you've got a back up and primary alternator working for the least amount invested if you were already considering adding a back up.

My Nippon Denso alternator was working great after 700 hours and 17 years of operation on an RV-7 I bought built. The builder had a back up alternator on the shelf just in case so I bought that one from him and still have it sitting there just in case.

Of course there's nothing at all wrong with a B&C and external regulator since guys here have been having great success with them.
 
Well engineered many inspections and specifically made for A/C . yes its more money but you really get a quality product for the money , the external Regulator is bulletproof. With our planes so Electron dependent its good to spend the money where it counts

Peter
Many years in an Automotive Electronics career......

Pete,

I concur, whether it is the alternator itself, or more likely the regulator, it looks like the right choice is to go withe B&C with external regulator... where did you mount yours and did it simply require an input cable from the alternator and output cables to buses?

Dan
 
Hi FLying Tiger,

Being a Department of Redundancy Department kind of guy, I like the idea of the back up alternator... do you know how much it weighs? Super Tweety is a big girl (meaning fattie) carrying a lil extra if you know what I mean.

Last time I had that alternator off, I looked for an identifying tab but couldn't find anything to tell me what make and model it is. Suggestions?

God willing, I will get out to the airplane tomorrow and check the voltage coming out of the business end of the alternator. And then know what Ive got to do.

Dan

You might find that the alternator you need to replace is a common Nippon Denso automotive alternator, so the bracket will not have to be changed if you use the same alternator again.

You'll be back in the air for the best cost and time invested.

Next, consider adding a Monkworks alternator to your vacuum pad on the back of the engine and now you've got a back up and primary alternator working for the least amount invested if you were already considering adding a back up.

My Nippon Denso alternator was working great after 700 hours and 17 years of operation on an RV-7 I bought built. The builder had a back up alternator on the shelf just in case so I bought that one from him and still have it sitting there just in case.

Of course there's nothing at all wrong with a B&C and external regulator since guys here have been having great success with them.
 
Addressing the cause . . .

Dan, the Plane Power EI60 is clearly marked but give us a picture to be sure. If PP is what you have then there are a couple of places to look that would increase voltage. Primarily it is in the field supply line. If there is any resistance the internal regulator will read that as a lower voltage and increase the output.

The most common issue is in the connector to the alternator, it is easy to check and repair. If it has an inline fuse, those can corrode and add resistance. Any other connector or switch should be checked too.

You could take it off and get the local auto parts store to check it for you. The B&C cost per hour is the lowest because it lasts the longest per a thread a couple of year ago. The field (then) seemed to be 1/3 each for automotive, PPEI60, and B&C 60 amp.

I have a PP with 250 hrs, and recently added a Monkworkz 2.5 lb 30amp back up.
 
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Evening Bill,

I hope to be out at the airplane tomorrow and will take photos to share. My first order of business will be simply to put a multimeter on the battery, fire the engine, turn on the alternator and see what the voltage is reading.

Im liking the idea of putting the B&C 60 in it, just because of all the good things said about B&C and not really having good evidence of how long this alternator has been in the a/c... the only thing I can find in the Logs is an entry in Mar 02 stating"1 ea AUT KIT 55 amp with built in regulator". Its possible the alternator is original since the airframe and engine only has 834 hours on it.

Dan

Dan, the Plane Power EI60 is clearly marked but give us a picture to be sure. If PP is what you have then there are a couple of places to look that would increase voltage. Primarily it is in the field supply line. If there is any resistance the internal regulator will read that as a lower voltage and increase the output.

The most common issue is in the connector to the alternator, it is easy to check and repair. If it has an inline fuse, those can corrode and add resistance. Any other connector or switch should be checked too.

You could take it off and get the local auto parts store to check it for you. The B&C cost per hour is the lowest because it lasts the longest per a thread a couple of year ago. The field (then) seemed to be 1/3 each for automotive, PPEI60, and B&C 60 amp.

I have a PP with 250 hrs, and recently added a Monkworkz 2.5 lb 40amp back up.
 
Monkworks 2.6 lbs, 30 amps

Hi FLying Tiger,

Being a Department of Redundancy Department kind of guy, I like the idea of the back up alternator... do you know how much it weighs? Super Tweety is a big girl (meaning fattie) carrying a lil extra if you know what I mean.

Last time I had that alternator off, I looked for an identifying tab but couldn't find anything to tell me what make and model it is. Suggestions?

God willing, I will get out to the airplane tomorrow and check the voltage coming out of the business end of the alternator. And then know what Ive got to do.

Dan

Monkworks is about 2.6 pounds. At 30 amps it’s a substantial back up.

https://www.kitplanes.com/the-monkworkz-mz-30l-direct-drive-generator/

My Denso alternator for a picture reference…
 

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