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Nippon Denso for 0-360

raisbeck

Member
I'm building a RV8 with a used O+360 A1A.

I've read numerous threads suggesting that the ND alternators are a good replacement for what Vans sells, but there are a lot of ND alternators out there

Which model should I specify when I go to the parts store?

Id like something that basically slots in where a PP or BC would fit. A couple local-6 builders have used the ND with good results, but its been long enough since they built that they don't remember what they used.
 
Try having your auto parts store search for a Lester 14684 - tat’s the 60 Amp ND that Van’s sold for years....
 
Here's an excerpt for a post I made some time ago about replacing an alternator supplied by Vans:

"I decided to buy a re-manufactured alternator from Denso which is the new name for the original manufacturer. These alternators are not made new by them any more. The alternator I believe is the closest replacement is part # 210-0637 http://densoautoparts.com 1987 Suzuki Samurai. I hoped the best quality re-manufacture would come from the original manufacturer.

I did have to file 3mm off the bracket the alternator mounts to, but I believe this was probably due to inaccuracy in the alternator housing casting rather than a different spec.

I ground ran the engine yesterday and flew it today with no overvoltage issues at all. I am not sure if my logic was correct but the result seems to be good."

I have ~100 hours on the replacement alternator now and all looks good
 
I replaced the original ND alternator in my O-360-A1A powered RV6 last year. The original lasted 23 years. Here is what I was able to find:

ULTIMA 35 AMP ALTERNATOR.jpeg

This is a 35 amp model. Maybe this will help as a starting point when working with an auto parts store to find one today.

Dave
 
Have one

I have one to sell very cheap if interested. 40 amp. I couldn’t use it when I rebuilt my engine
 
chevy mini alternator 35A to 55A

1-wire are more than 3-wire but you can connect the 3 wire alternator to automatically come ON when you turn ON the master sw or have it's own sw. From what I've heard is it's possible the internal regulator can fail in such a way that you will be unable to shut it down with the switch so it is suggested to use a contactor between the B-lead and the connection to the battery and use an OV protection module/unit to automatically trip the contactor. PerihelionDesign.com and https://bandc.com/product-category/electrical-supplies/alternator-system-accessories/

Although over voltage runaway rarely happens, do you want to be that person it happens to and fry $10,000 plus of avionics?

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-mini-alternator-denso-street-rod-race-1-wire-12180.html 35A

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-1-Wire-Micro-Mini-GM-Alternators/1418993/10002/-1 55A
 
Baking

In looking at the pictures, it seems to me there is a possibility these alternators are getting baked by "seeing" the exhaust pipes.

I am not going to be using an alternator in this traditional location, but if the rectifier section has a line of sight to any exhaust pipe, the radiant heat must be really high. I am curious if one could fashion a radiant heat shield so that the alternator cannot "see" the exhaust pipes?

When the alternator is new, and the case is fresh and clean, the heat absorbed is probably minor. But if the alternator case gets old and grimy, the heat absorption probably goes up dramatically.
 
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In looking at the pictures, it seems to me there is a possibility these alternators are getting baked by "seeing" the exhaust pipes.

I am not going to be using an alternator in this traditional location, but if the rectifier section has a line of sight to any exhaust pipe, the radiant heat must be really high. I am curious if one could fashion a radiant heat shield so that the alternator cannot "see" the exhaust pipes?

When the alternator is new, and the case is fresh and clean, the heat absorbed is probably minor. But if the alternator case gets old and grimy, the heat absorption probably goes up dramatically.


Its an interesting thought, and the truth is that it is both easy to put a radiant heat shield on the exhaust (you can buy them at Spruce and other places), but the regulator on the ND alternators has a sheet metal shield over it with an air gap to the regulator as part of the assembly - so maybe the designer thought of that....I don’t know.

I do know that I get very long life (well over a thousand hours) with ND’s when installed in good alignment, with good hardware, and with a blast tube directed at the regulator. But that’s just my experience.....

Paul
 
Novice question, sorry

Pardon the novice question. Can the internal voltage reg on the NDs be set to 13.8?. A $60 alt sure sounds better than a 7-$800 one.
 
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