What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

RV-7 air filter access

paulseli

I'm New Here
I have FAB-HORIZON INDUCTION-1 filtered snorkel/airbox for IO-360 as sold in 2009. changing air filter requires disconnecting the airbox and dropping it down a few inches so the filter will slide out past the lip of the airbox. that requires removal of a dozen 6-32 screws that sandwich the filter tray between airbox and baffle, and also the 4 wired bolts that hold the airbox to the carb flange.

Has anybody come up with a "quick access" filter setup? It appears to be a simple fix to notch the front of the airbox about 5/8" then the filter would just slide in and out--and then to attach a removable plate to cover the notch once the filter is seated?

thanks for any suggestions.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3548.jpg
    IMG_3548.jpg
    633.8 KB · Views: 228
Paul

I’ll have to look how I installed mine 15 years ago but mine sits under one lip and a couple of removable plates. Once the plates are removed it comes out the top.
2 minute job.

Regards

Peter
 
Doesn’t look like yours was built to plans. Per plans, the filter is held in by the aluminum top plate, with 4 or 5 screws. Simple to replace the filter. U do have the plans, right?
 
This is not exactly per plans, since I had to modify my snorkel to fit, but the plans are similar. The filter should drop in from the top, and I just need to remove the retention plate to access.


051919-IMG_0064-L.jpg
 
There seem to be many ways people have done this. The way I made mine, the filter is secured by two metal plates, the left one gets removed, and the right one pivots outboard out of the way:



For whatever reason, I did not end up with a lot of space between the outboard edge of the filter and the #2 cylinder baffle, so I had to kind of integrate that plate with the side of the baffle and put the screws very close to the baffle.
 
Mine is built to plans in this area, and it's like Paul's. I essentially have to remove the whole snorkel to change the filter, but since I only do it every 100 hours, I'm ok to do that to inspect it and the intake of the throttle body. Mine's an RV-8 but I believe they are the same as the RV-7.
 
Ryan's is close if not exactly per plans provided circa 2010 like mine. 6 easy to access screws and out comes the filter.
My memory says the baffle system was in a state of design flux prior to that so there could be differences in " made to print".
 
Last edited:
41F2C94D-5F05-46FE-B0A6-F8AD36E848DE.jpg

6C81C6F5-BB8E-4C4F-9129-9CF81FB6E147.jpg

28497D6E-E82A-4E11-BB35-0990336AD3B4.jpg

Here’s my solution. This is on an angle valve engine. The baffles on parallel valve have different dimensions but this should work. Clean appearance on top of baffle floor and one screw to remove the filter. I did put a shim (probably .032) between the bottom of the baffle and the bracket that hold the filter to allow the filter to slide out better.
 

Attachments

  • 3B8B0BA2-2F56-4240-B0C9-0B632058C964.jpg
    3B8B0BA2-2F56-4240-B0C9-0B632058C964.jpg
    359.8 KB · Views: 122
Last edited:
Back
Top