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Kudos to Antisplat

woodmanrog

Well Known Member
I used the new Antisplat EZ Oil Filter Drain for the first time yesterday and I'm p****ed off that this wasn't developed 25 years ago. Worked perfectly the first try. Things that may not be mentioned in the ad on the ASA website are:1- When applying the air hose, take care not to let it move AT ALL. The tool will eject itself. 2- It would be best if the air hose hangs straight down on the tool while in use. I ended up having my wife holding down the drain tool till all of the oil finished draining. Another advantage is that by adding air pressure to the drain procedure, the oil (ours was warmed up) drains much quicker. Great job Allen.
 
Would you clarify “ 2- It would be best if the air hose hangs straight down on the tool while in use.”?
Do you mean the weight of the air hose hanging straight down is enough to stop the tool ejecting itself?
I have bought one too and am looking forward to using it for the first time.
 
Question

I watched the video on their website. I like the idea of draining all the oil from the filter before removing.

I am not too keen on using 100 psi thou. That is 100 psi pushing oil thru everything until the flow becomes greater then what is allowed by the orifice restrictor in the tool.

I am also not keen on removing all the oil from the oil cooler. That means the first start after the change is a dry start. That seems ok if one just has to fill up the oil filter, but having to charge the filter, oil cooler and all the lines means that for a small time the after engine starts the engine has no oil pressure. With the dinosaur Lycoming running 80+ psi oil pressure, seems like damage could occur. JMHO
 
Tool ejection

In answer to Colin. The oil filter is very thin metal and any side pressure against the metal is like wiggling the tool to remove it. If the weight of the hose is directed straight downward I believe it would remain in place during usage. Allen Nimmo might have a better answer to these questions.
 
John, watch the demo video on ASA website. Allen addresses your air pressure concern 7:26 into the video. Hope this helps.
 
Tup

John, watch the demo video on ASA website. Allen addresses your air pressure concern 7:26 into the video. Hope this helps.

I think tou are still pushing with full pressure until air hits relief valve or all the oil drains out. It is just not for me. i think I would use no more than 60 Psi and take a little longer. Besides I want to use lower air pressure so the galleys stay full of oil but enough pressure to empty oil cooler. I think if the pressure is too high, then the oil galleys will empty and that means next start will have no oil in the bearings until filter and cooler fill. JMHO

Edit: See later post, Carl has a solution to this concern.
 
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SNIP

I am also not keen on removing all the oil from the oil cooler. That means the first start after the change is a dry start.

Regardless on how you change oil and filter, I recommend always pre-lubing the engine before engine start.

Pull a plug from each cylinder. Turn the prop by hand until you get oil pressure (with practice you can get it spinning pretty fast). You can also use the starter to turn the prop, just let it rest after 20 seconds or so of cranking. With a plug out in each cylinder the starter is not working too hard.

Carl
 
problem? we dont have no stinky problem

can any metal or paint breaking off from the impact get into the engine?

My corollary is if whatever breaks off, does it go on the "dirty" side of the filter, or the "clean" side? if it is on the "dirty" side, it doesn't matter.

Also, the comment above about pre-oiling the engine after the oil change by turning the prop with plugs removed solves my previous issue.
 
Also, the comment above about pre-oiling the engine after the oil change by turning the prop with plugs removed solves my previous issue.
If you can spin it fast enough by hand to get oil moving, and given you're not likely to spin it more than a couple of dozen blades or so to do it, then what's the difference between it being spun by hand or being spun by the starter and the combustion in the engine, given the oil pressure will come up even faster with motive power behind the turning?
 
If you can spin it fast enough by hand to get oil moving, and given you're not likely to spin it more than a couple of dozen blades or so to do it, then what's the difference between it being spun by hand or being spun by the starter and the combustion in the engine, given the oil pressure will come up even faster with motive power behind the turning?

Shhhh! Common sense and logic have no place in this discussion. :rolleyes:

-Marc
 
Clarifications

... I guess I need to chime in here and try to remedy a couple of mistakes I made in the video of this product, that are causing some confusion. I said this "will evacuate the oil cooler", this statement is incorrect, as it does not. The first aircraft we used the tool on had it's cooler mounted on the firewall with both oil lines at it's bottom. This configuration would drain the cooler, as the air would migrate to the top, allowing the oil to be displaced out the bottom. All the standard Vans cooler mounting configurations will not evacuate the oil coolers when using the tool. The outside of the filter can is the dirty side of the filter media where all debris is captured, and the only way for oil to exit the filter is via the center hole in the filter. No dirty or contaminated oil can backflow out of the filter due to it's built in backflow valve. This also will not allow air to evacuate the oil screen or oil pump causing the pump to loose it's prime. When using this tool all displaced oil from the filter will be filtered prior to it's reintroduction into the engine, as the pierce end of the tool is not long enough to disturb or compromise the filter media. As for the air pressure in PSI, it will never spike to full line pressure due to the very small .085" restriction orifice in the tool. This is easily verified by turning on your master, and watching the oil pressure gauge when introducing the air pressure to the filter. The tool does require you to hold it straight when inserting it into the filter, and connecting your air hose. The pierce end of the tool has approximately .030" taper machined into it, so it will lock into the pierced hole. If you move it around a lot it will release it's press fit. As of this posting we have sold and delivered 863 EZ Oil Filter Tools, and have another 80 on backorder, and with this volume we have received a very large quantity of feedback (overwhelmingly all good) from users of the tool. Only three were not! One complaint was the tool was not included in his order, two guys said it was loose in the hole the first time it was used, but later figured out how to hold it very still to eliminate this issue, and one of the two said it allowed some leakage out the loose hole. I hope this helps clarify some of the concerns. I will redo the video and I hope it didn't cause too much confusion. We are just finishing another larger run of these and will be able to ship the backorders next week. Thank You all, Allan--:D
 
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Just finished my 3rd or 4th oil change using this tool and it's been great. I tried every trick in the book to remove the filter without causing a mess. It's very tight on the back of the 390 especially with the standby alternator installed. I also have the oil filter with the nipple in it which seems to make the oil filter harder to rotate and drop in the plastic bag. One question to the group who understands this 10 times better than me. I do see it takes a little longer for the pressure to build after a new oil filter and not sure if it takes longer than when I was changing the oil the "old method". I do seem to get more oil in my container that I measure how much oil drains out than before. (Counting the oil that was left in the oil filter) Removing the spark plugs seems like a decent idea but would add more time and replacing the copper washers each time not sure needed. Would turning the engine over with the fuel pumps off (I have dual electric pumps and nothing on the engine) help or am I introducing unintended consequences? Seems like no good deed goes unpunished in our world.
 
engine start-up

--- You won't need to take any special precautions, as this tool doesn't evacuate
the oil from the pick-up in the sump to the oil pump, thus the oil prime is not lost,
and the only delay is time required to fill the new oil filter. We are glad to see you
are happy with your new tool, and also want to say thank you for your thinking
of us. We have currently sold over 700 of these and have not received even one
negative statement or complaint. The positive responses have been overwhelming
and I can assure you they are much appreciated. Thanks, Allan--:D
 
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