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How to fix a partially torn rivet hole

Can I drill these out to a #30 size, debur, and use an upsized Oops rivet? The tabs weren’t laying flat on the curve of the empanage skins unfortunately. If that won’t work, can you offer any other fixes?
 

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Those single hole tabs are difficult to hold in position to drill in alignment with the skin holes.Those pre-punched holes are close enough to just ream alone, debur, then dimple to accept the skin dimple. An opps rivet is appropriate for those oblong holes. I think if you try to flatten those dimples and re dimple, that will bugger them up more.
 
Pre load

Everyone runs into the same issue with these rivets and given the fact that these are early in the process and quite difficult to access with some bucking bars it is not surprising to see these posts come up again and again with new builders.
I know you can't remove the rib at this point but I would use a pull dimple die to "repair" the hole somewhat before resetting a new rivet. I agree with the previous poster, that an oversize rivet is probably the best fix.
In addition, use a technique called pre loading the rivet to make it fit snuggly in that hole before setting it to final size.
Take your rivet and give it a tiny bit of squeeze to fatten up the shank a bit, so it will fit snugly in the buggered up hole. After that, set and forget!!
You have learned first hand that drilling out 95% perfect rivets will very likely result in a 85% perfect rivets. As you go on, you will think twice about redoing rivets for such very minor issues and I am certainly not endorsing sloppiness but more often than not, what happened here is what happens to almost everyone.
I can see from your pics that you hammered the flange next to the rivet, probably with a bucking bar that is too big for the job or just sheer awkwardness in that tight space.
Do yourself a big favor and get yourself a tungsten bucking bar.
They are expensive but you only need one of them, small and heavy.
I built my entire 10 with one bucking bar mostly riveting by myself.
You'll thank me later.
Now get to work, the 10 is a truly awesome airplane.
 
I'm not a big fan of 'oops' rivets, the head diameter gets so small that the tension strength on the skin is significantly reduced. If the material is thin enough you can use a pull type dimpler and just go up to a std 1/8" rivet.
 
Just a heads up, the attach image feature allows you to upload all your photos in one post. Just repeat the process until all your photos are on the upload pop-up...
 
I'm not a big fan of Oops rivets for the same reason Walt gave, but I agree with increasing diameter to hole for a #30 rivet. Just don't forget to re-dimple the hole to #30 or the rivet head will sit proud of the skin (which is the driver for using oops rivets to begin with...a pulled riveter type dimpler will do well in this instance.

While I agree a pulled rivet will likely to the job just fine, if you decide to stick with a solid rivet in that confined area, an aid to keep the tabs pressed together with the skin is by placing a small grommet over the rivet tail. Then just press down on the grommet with your bucking bar and make a couple hits with the rivet gun to "seat" the rivet sufficient to hold everything together. Then remove the grommet and buck as normal and all parts will be well pressed together.
 
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I believe I have mentioned the following alternative before.

Background, I was taught sheet metal at John Thorp's Burbank shop by guys who learned their skills in the WW2 factories of Lockheed, Douglas, etc.

I was taught to deal with a situation like this by using a "drawing technique"

First insert and drive the rivet with a few light taps to swell the shaft enough to provide some "drag" between the rivet and parts to be assembled. Then , use a bucking bar with a (approx) .140" hole drilled (deeper than the grip length of the rivet) with a few light taps, (very) to bring the two pieces together. Back to a regular portion of the bucking bar and complete forming the shop head.

After the first light hit after the drawing process, check to ensure the parts didn't separate (if so- repeat lightly) - then proceed to form the shop head.

Of course, first practice with scrap as usual.
 
I had one instance where I needed to upsize a hole for one of those tabs up to a 5/32 and use a -4 oops rivet. On the bottom where it won't be seen, but the damaged hole looked similar.

I'm also wondering, given that its on a single hole tab, if you could make an aluminum shim/tab with an appropriate sized #40 hole, dimple, and epoxy on over the damaged area (cleco'd from the outside). Then rivet as standard once cured. I wouldn't make this a common practice but if its one out of the bunch.....
 
I’m also at this stage and had to disassemble my right aileron. My first thought were oops rivets as well but I choose to go up to a 1/8 instead for reasons noted above. If it was only a few rivets spaced apart I may have used the oops but there were many and I don’t trust the small manufactured head. And yes I did re-dimple all the holes.

I’m figuring you won’t even be able to tell in the end, looks wise.
 
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Is this from drilling out rivets?

I would suggest not riveting the parts if they aren't laying flat against each other. If the flanges aren't 90 degrees you need to address that problem before the riveting begins.
 
To fix it..

Since its only one rivet hole, grab a scrap piece of metal, drill a hole in it and dimple it. Then , trim it down to either a small square or round like a washer, lay on top(superglue or restrain with a tiny o-ring) and rivet with a size longer rivet and move on. You'll sleep fine an not have to see a different rivet size from the outside, which would keep you from sleeping fine.
 
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