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Newton Fuel Caps

Lefty37

Member
I am building my fuel tanks and thinking of upgrading from the standard T-00007 fuel caps (from the RV-14) to the Newton fuel caps, has anyone done this? Where can I find them? Which one is the correct model? Thanks!
 
Good hardware!

The 2? aluminum version is what we put on the F1 Evo series - no problems with those. Newton supplied a curved recepticle that fit the wing curve well - I would think those are still available. The units we sold also had locks on ?em.

The Sport wing ship used a plastic version - again Newton made the recepticle curved, and also milled the caps a bit - these are 3? versions if I can recall correctly. I have a box of those left over....
 
I just asked the same question when I ordered my wings. The plastic SPRL caps that come with the Rv14 are made by newton. My basic question to them was whether they sold an aluminium cap which fit the SPRL flange. Their reply was below. Based on this I went with the standard RV14 plastic SPRL caps (which are amazing quality btw) and I?ll wait and see if they make an aluminium version in time. (Alternatively you could get the Aero 300 ones and they sell them with the curved flange).

http://www.newtonsprl.co.uk/aero-300/

Newton reply:
?Unfortunately our Aluminium Aero 300 will not fit the SPRL flange you get with the RV Kit.

It is something we are in the process of doing, designing an aluminium fuel cap to fit the SPRL flange so customers like yourself have an alternative.

We don't have a date when this will be completed as yet.

We can offer the Aero 300 fuel cap, locking or Non locking with a choice of rivet flange 1. (A30L-R) and 2. ( A30L-VNS)?
 
The 2? aluminum version is what we put on the F1 Evo series - no problems with those. Newton supplied a curved receptacle that fit the wing curve well - I would think those are still available. The units we sold also had locks on ?em.

These are no longer available nor does Newton carry any seals or parts for the locking caps.
 
Newton caps

I have a set still in the box. PM me and i will send pics if interested. I could not use them on my 7 because Vans had changed the opening size in the tank skin. Just realized this is in the 7 section��.
 
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Huh?

These are no longer available nor does Newton carry any seals or parts for the locking caps.

I recall the non-locking Aero 200 use the same seals as the locking versions - correct me if I?m wrong! Might have to get ?em from Robin directly?
 
I am building my fuel tanks and thinking of upgrading from the standard T-00007 fuel caps (from the RV-14) to the Newton fuel caps, has anyone done this? Where can I find them? Which one is the correct model? Thanks!

I used these on my RV-7: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/lwsprlfc1.php

I had to manually file the flange down to match the tank skin curvature, come up with my own rivet pattern, enlarge the hole, etc. It was a lot of trouble (four times, for four tanks, and I needed to order a spare flange after filing one of them the wrong way) but they're really nice caps and I expect they'll be a lot easier to open compared to the stock ones on Dad's 2000-era RV-6.
 
I recall the non-locking Aero 200 use the same seals as the locking versions - correct me if I?m wrong! Might have to get ?em from Robin directly?

I am talking about the internal seals. Requires special release tool to get the key portion out without breaking the plastic retainers.
I have fuel that gets sucked out of the key slot at cruise full. AND I have 4 of them. They all now do it after 15 years or so.
 
OH BOY!

I am talking about the internal seals. Requires special release tool to get the key portion out without breaking the plastic retainers.
I have fuel that gets sucked out of the key slot at cruise full. AND I have 4 of them. They all now do it after 15 years or so.

I get to order a new tool! COOL! 9 years and mine don?t leak - yet. I?ll have 4 ea on the new bird too.

My problem is losing all those new tools..well, maybe they run off and hide? Hmmm...
 
I get to order a new tool! COOL! 9 years and mine don?t leak - yet. I?ll have 4 ea on the new bird too.

My problem is losing all those new tools..well, maybe they run off and hide? Hmmm...

Im afraid that is no solution either. They will neither sell a tool, NOR will they even take the caps in for repair. They will not touch them at all. Nice service. ARGH!
 
All parts are available

Contacted Robin directly - turns out all the required parts are available. Robin will answer all these questions directly - all I would do is mess it up.

The flanges that contour to the wing are also available to fit most of the caps that will also work.
 
Newton fuel caps

There is some confusion going on here so:
For photos see newtonsprl.co.uk

The original vans 'Luxury' gas cap is called 'A30 (L or S tandard) VNS'
Usually L for locking, has a curved flange that fits most Vans wings.
These were supplied by Vans but no longer.
Spruce part no 05-22934 A30L-VNS

If you need a flat rivet in flange the code is A30L R.
A30L-R rivet seems not to be in the catalogue. Ask Spruce and we can supply.
Usually the skin will adapt to a flat flange or the curved version equally easily.
The aero 300 -vns cap assemblies will fit into the current tanks, (if you are building the tank) but the hole in the skin is a bit oversize- I think it is OK but you need to decide for yourself.

The Aero 200 is a tiny metal gas cap, too small for most purposes.

The Aero Z2 or Z3 were designed for Cirrus de ice fluids but adapted to retrofit into the then standard Usher flanges.
So if you want to upgrade your old Usher caps, the Z3 is a good choice. Current Z3 is Spruce 05-01006.
The same page also shows an overhaul kit which works on the old Z2 caps 05-07226 called OHK Z2 which is correct despite being labelled as for the A2 series. It is hard to dismantle the Z2 without breaking the red retaining clip which is why it is part of the kit.

The small O ring goes onto the top of the lock, I think at least one chap forgot to fit it so retained the leak.

There were several changes to this cap/flange so if the OHK does not work then the only real answer is to get the Z2 flange out of the wing and re-fit new Z3. This will be a lot of work, but maybe better that the Usher cap.

Andair supply a cap remarkably similar to the Z 2 series l that developed but I do not know which version he is on so interchangeability is uncertain. Anyway he did me a favour by pushing me into the fuel valve business. :)

The next item is the SPRL gas cap. This is moulded in a glass/Acetal mix and comes in a red flange- It works very well indeed.
It is bullet proof but some current fuels cause swelling (mostly very old versions)
If the cap becomes hard to turn remove the collar on the saddle which engages in the upper cap.

Vans have adopted this cap as standard on all their aeroplanes in a curved flange (400mm rad as for the aero cap).
Some people want a metal version and work is in hand- but plastic (yuk...) is light and works.


I think Kahuna is talking about the Z2 retrofit caps, not the aero 300 series which is why there has been some confusion- and, for the record I do not have a clip removal tool for these caps and the cost of shipping and taxes makes return to us uneconomic which is why there are OHK's at Spruce.

Robin voice or contact Rob Selby [email protected]
 
Metal fuel caps

There is some confusion going on here so:
For photos see newtonsprl.co.uk

The original vans 'Luxury' gas cap is called 'A30 (L or S tandard) VNS'
Usually L for locking, has a curved flange that fits most Vans wings.
These were supplied by Vans but no longer.
Spruce part no 05-22934 A30L-VNS

If you need a flat rivet in flange the code is A30L R.
A30L-R rivet seems not to be in the catalogue. Ask Spruce and we can supply.
Usually the skin will adapt to a flat flange or the curved version equally easily.
The aero 300 -vns cap assemblies will fit into the current tanks, (if you are building the tank) but the hole in the skin is a bit oversize- I think it is OK but you need to decide for yourself.

The next item is the SPRL gas cap. This is moulded in a glass/Acetal mix and comes in a red flange- It works very well indeed.
It is bullet proof but some current fuels cause swelling (mostly very old versions)
If the cap becomes hard to turn remove the collar on the saddle which engages in the upper cap.

Vans have adopted this cap as standard on all their aeroplanes in a curved flange (400mm rad as for the aero cap).
Some people want a metal version and work is in hand- but plastic (yuk...) is light and works.


Robin voice or contact Rob Selby [email protected]

Robin, I wanted to see how the work is going on the metal version of the SPRL caps. I had deleted my plastic (yuk) caps and flanges from my recent RV-8 wing order, I didn’t realize that the new tank skins are oversized and the “Deluxe” A30-Vans caps look “not right” to me in the bigger holes. I am hoping that you will make a metal version of the SPRL! If you are going ahead with the metal version, will the current red flanges work? Perhaps I should build with the red flanges for now, but I would want to make sure they are compatible with your (hopefully) new caps!
 
I think Kahuna is talking about the Z2 retrofit caps, not the aero 300 series which is why there has been some confusion- and, for the record I do not have a clip removal tool for these caps and the cost of shipping and taxes makes return to us uneconomic which is why there are OHK's at Spruce.

Robin voice or contact Rob Selby [email protected]

Robin,
Yes mine are Z2's. I have 4 of them leaking and going to Z3's requiring removal of the insert from the tanks is not going to happen.

Do you have a picture of what the Z2 clip removal tool looks like even though you do not have one for your caps? Surely I can make one to take these apart and replace the o rings.

Thanks
 
Well I was able to get my o-rings replaced with an ACS item.
REPLACEMENT O-RING KIT FOR A20L FUEL CAP


05-07226.jpg


I have 4 of these fuel caps. Thats an $84 set of o-rings and plastic clips. AHHHH! Each kit has 3 o-rings and a red retainer clip. What I really needed was a sample retainer clip so I could figure out how its retained in the cap, and fabricate the proper tool.

You will see in the pictures below, that the tool is quite simple. Tap the tool onto the end of the cap, spread the little fingers out just a little, and pry the plastic retainer off. I was able to easily do this with all for fuel caps without breaking anything. KEY ITEM, Only spread the fingers out enough to get the retainer off.

Pull it apart, take the 3 o-rings to your local supplier and get the ones you need.
 

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