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In-flight adjustable pedal powder coat

msstahl

Active Member
Has anybody powder coated the inflight adjustable pedals for the 8? How do you deal with the plastic tube that guides the cable through the S tube on the pedal weldment?

I’m hesitant to monkey with the cable end to pull the assembly apart. I see people have done this successfully so I’m looking for pointers.
 
I suggest powder coat will not work, too thick for the slider to work.

I primed the tube (the one with the adjustment holes). Works well. I painted all the other parts using PPG urethane single stage paint over the then sanded powdered coat.

Carl
 
Powder Coat

Just looking to re-powder what’s already painted with a different color not coat surfaces that are left bare.
 
Just looking to re-powder what’s already painted with a different color not coat surfaces that are left bare.

Ok, but I suggest paint is a boatload easier.

I use a medium gray on the interior, a dark gray on controls, rudder pedals and such as well as engine baffles and components (like the snorkel). The PPG single stage urethane paint is very durable, as in as good as powder coat.

Carl
 
Has anybody powder coated the inflight adjustable pedals for the 8? How do you deal with the plastic tube that guides the cable through the S tube on the pedal weldment?

I’m hesitant to monkey with the cable end to pull the assembly apart. I see people have done this successfully so I’m looking for pointers.

Yes I removed the cables and plastic. Don't do it if you're not familiar with re-crimping these or get some help. In addition cutting the cable may make it too short and you'll need to replaced the whole cable. You need to order the easily bendable wire not the generic stuff otherwise it will never make the bend.

Prob a safer approach is tell the powder coat company to tape it off and it will be reasonable.
 
We've started replacing powder coating with Cerakoting on all of our coated parts. It's so much superior (so far!) that I can't imagine powdering anything ever again. Cerakote is very thin, so sliding parts still slide.
 
Polyethylene

Thanks for the feedback. I called and talked to Vans and it turns out the tubing is polyethylene. Thought about taking the chance of leaving the tubing on but it has a melting point of 110 deg C so I don't think it would have made the trip through the oven.

Being the shank ball (MS 20664 C-4) was rather cheap I elected to dissect the shank ball and the cable so we'll see how well it goes back together.

I've heard a lot of good things about Cerakote, how well does it work on aluminum?
 
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