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I'm devistated and I need some serious help... :(

mmaisano

I'm New Here
Thank you for helping!

My 2010 RV7/A engine bay recently caught fire. I'm not sure where to start. I need major help, the engine will probably need sent off, new avionics, and new front cowling top and bottom.. I did not built it, so I don't have the means or know how to repair it. It's at KGKT (Pigeon forge) at the moment. Any help would be extrememly and greatfully taken!



UPDATE! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR AMAZING HELP! I'm so blessed and grateful for the amazing Vans community! Blessings!
 
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My 2010 RV7/A engine bay recently caught fire. I'm not sure where to start. I need major help, the engine will probably need sent off, new avionics, and new front cowling top and bottom.. I did not built it, so I don't have the means or know how to repair it. It's at KGKT (Pigeon forge) at the moment. Any help would be extrememly and greatfully taken!

New Avionics? So the fire got into the cabin or just smoke?
Check the cabin floor. Any melt through? Same with the sides.
If the fire stayed fire wall forward then not so bad. If it damaged the fuselage (as implied) this is likely a total. [Repairable, yes, but at more $ than the insurance value]
Even if the fuselage isn't holed, it can still have issues --- look for buckled aluminum.

My 0.02 - partly based on doing repair work to an RV-3 that had an engine fire.
 
Fire

Matthew
So sorry.
I'm not finished but I am working FWF and I may be able to offer some telephone help. Let me know.
First I recommend purchasing the RV7 electronic files from Vans on usb.
Hopefully, you are close to some RV builder owners. They will know FWF and can give in person assistance.
 
That is awful. Sorry for you. I hope you are insured - it will make things easier. Best of luck.
 
Welcome to VAF

Matthew, welcome to VAF:D

Sorry about the fire, but at least you are OK.

We were in Pigeon Forge just last week, did not know there was an airport there.

Above advice is good, be sure to check for damage extending aft past the firewall. The RV being all alum, without a steel cage it is essential that the structure is sound.

Methinks you need to pull the wings, and trailer it home for a really good look-see.

Good luck.
 
Smoke and water damage I'm guessing.. I haven't seen it since the night it happened..I did have the local shop give me a quick assessment the following day, they said it was contained firewall forward.. I'm still coming to terms with it. I'd like to pay somoene to repair it.. I simply don't have the time :(
 
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Mornin’…..

Contact Ray Lawrence, in Sandersville, ga. (OKZ)…Pull the wings off and the fuselage can be trailered…478 232 9560.

Chin up….👍
 
How was the fire extinguished? Just water, or were fire extinguishers used? If they were dry chemical ABC-type, then the aircraft is totalled.

Just had a customer who owned their RV-10 one month and had an engine fire. It was extinguished with a chemical fire extinguisher. Aircraft was totalled and is being destroyed by the insurance company.

The powder gets everywhere, and is extremely corrosive.

Vic
 
How was the fire extinguished? Just water, or were fire extinguishers used? If they were dry chemical ABC-type, then the aircraft is totalled.

Just had a customer who owned their RV-10 one month and had an engine fire. It was extinguished with a chemical fire extinguisher. Aircraft was totalled and is being destroyed by the insurance company.

The powder gets everywhere, and is extremely corrosive.

Vic

That's the first time I've ever heard of an aircraft being totaled because a chemical fire extinguisher was used on it!!! :eek:
 
It may be different in the USA but surely your insurance company will be the ones with the headache of getting it recovered and repaired ?

Good thing is you're OK and if it's adequately insured should be covered.

Fingers crossed for you
 
It may be different in the USA but surely your insurance company will be the ones with the headache of getting it recovered and repaired ?

Good thing is you're OK and if it's adequately insured should be covered.

Fingers crossed for you

Yeah, insurance company would be my very first call. They should have people ready to immediately start solving the problem for their insured.
 
How was the fire extinguished? Just water, or were fire extinguishers used? If they were dry chemical ABC-type, then the aircraft is totalled.

Just had a customer who owned their RV-10 one month and had an engine fire. It was extinguished with a chemical fire extinguisher. Aircraft was totalled and is being destroyed by the insurance company.

The powder gets everywhere, and is extremely corrosive.

Vic


I teach firefighting at our local college and last night was covering fire extinguishers with our 2022 cohort of students. I always emphasize that they must consider the long term damage when using some types of dry chem fire extinguishers. I have seen cases where people have discharged ABC extinguishers to save something that cost $1000 to replace… and caused $10,000-100,000 in damage. If they had used a different agent or even let it burn until we got there… they would have been well ahead….
 
I teach firefighting at our local college and last night was covering fire extinguishers with our 2022 cohort of students. I always emphasize that they must consider the long term damage when using some types of dry chem fire extinguishers. I have seen cases where people have discharged ABC extinguishers to save something that cost $1000 to replace… and caused $10,000-100,000 in damage. If they had used a different agent or even let it burn until we got there… they would have been well ahead….

Totally agree, 37 years of firefighting.
 
Matthew, welcome to VAF:D

Sorry about the fire, but at least you are OK.

We were in Pigeon Forge just last week, did not know there was an airport there.

Above advice is good, be sure to check for damage extending aft past the firewall. The RV being all alum, without a steel cage it is essential that the structure is sound.

Methinks you need to pull the wings, and trailer it home for a really good look-see.

Good luck.

Mike the airport is actually in Sevierville not Gatlinburg KGKT.
george
 
Yeah, insurance company would be my very first call. They should have people ready to immediately start solving the problem for their insured.

+1 Your first discussion on this incident should be with your insurance company. They’re going to be the one to pay the expenses associated with this therefore you need to immediately contact them.
 
Type A will be a total. Aluminum and avionics will be tango uniform.
 
+1 Your first discussion on this incident should be with your insurance company. They’re going to be the one to pay the expenses associated with this therefore you need to immediately contact them.

I agree with Jim. As much as this is an inconvenience for you, you have insurance (hopefully), and this is is an insurance claim. Let them take care of it. If it’s repairable, use the advice you learned here to to make sure the repair facility is up to speed on the chemical consequences of using certain types of fire extinguishing elements. If it requires transport to a repair facility, or your home airport so that you can make the repairs, that is part of the claim. If you make the repairs yourself (maybe not since you are not the builder), you charge them for your time, and that is part of the claim. You can see how the claim may exceed the insured hull value (minus deductible) - although the hourly rate you charge for your time is probably lower than the going certified airframe repair shop rates. You will need to give them the estimate your the shop time/cost if you do the repairs. Insurance companies want to write off a loss as soon as possible, write you a check, and wash their hands of this, so make sure you have your ducks in a row and don’t commit to a settlement too early. When you have a claim, even if it’s not your fault, there will be a dark cloud over you for a while, maybe 3 years….. ask me how I know…..

This is a terrible inconvenience/consequence, but that’s what insurance is for. Take advantage of it and let your insurance adjuster handle it. It’s their job, and what they are good at.
 
Thanks for all the advice!

Unfortuantly im self insured so I'll be footing the bill, I'm okay with that, the good news.. Water was the only thing used to extinguish the fire, but thank you to everyone with the extinguisher warnings, I had no clue, great to know in the future. My concern with this plane is that I'm not sure where to start. I'm not the builder, though I'm handy, I would like to either hire someone to do it, or hire someone to come help. The maintence shop on the field is in the process of putting together a quote. Id much rather work with an RV guy, who can put my baby back together the right way. To put it simply I just feel overwhelmed as to where to begin.
 
Matt,

My RV is currently being repaired due to a prop strike taxing in the grass at Oshkosh. My repair estimate is over $47,500 and thankfully insurance is picking up most of this cost.

I honestly couldn’t imagine tackling the repairs myself given the costs, expertise, and time commitment involved. At the very least you’ll need to consider an engine tear down inspection (engines don’t like fire - what caused the fire?), propeller replacement/overhaul, nose gear and cowling repair/replacement, new FWF wiring and hoses, new battery plus any other damage. In your situation you’ll also have costs associated with replacement of your panel, avionics and who knows what else. Even if there’s little damage cockpit aft, the real money is cockpit forward.

I understand your shock and you have my deepest sympathy. This is tough to say but in your situation it might make the most economic sense to consider parting out what’s left. I’m told supply chain issues will keep me from seeing my RV in the air again at least until January and likely much later - and that’s with professionals managing the repair process. If insurance wasn’t picking up my bill - my flying days would be over.

Good luck, I wish you well.
 
I'd much rather work with an RV guy, who can put my baby back together the right way. To put it simply I just feel overwhelmed as to where to begin.

The process would start with a hands-on inspection. If you would like a good assessment, my phone number is in your private messages.
 
Sorry this happened to you

If you are willing to wait a while (and I do mean a while), Kent Gorton in the Atlanta area specializes in repairs.

Best to call him or text at 314 368-6 zero zero seven

You could also reach out to Synergy Air South. They are also in the Atlanta area (Newnan KCCO) and have helped many builders with their RV's. However, last time I was there, they were extremely busy with almost 20 or so RV's under construction. Still wouldn't hurt to check.
 
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Matt,

My RV is currently being repaired due to a prop strike taxing in the grass at Oshkosh. My repair estimate is over $47,500 and thankfully insurance is picking up most of this cost.

I honestly couldn’t imagine tackling the repairs myself given the costs, expertise, and time commitment involved. At the very least you’ll need to consider an engine tear down inspection (engines don’t like fire - what caused the fire?), propeller replacement/overhaul, nose gear and cowling repair/replacement, new FWF wiring and hoses, new battery plus any other damage. In your situation you’ll also have costs associated with replacement of your panel, avionics and who knows what else. Even if there’s little damage cockpit aft, the real money is cockpit forward.

I understand your shock and you have my deepest sympathy. This is tough to say but in your situation it might make the most economic sense to consider parting out what’s left. I’m told supply chain issues will keep me from seeing my RV in the air again at least until January and likely much later - and that’s with professionals managing the repair process. If insurance wasn’t picking up my bill - my flying days would be over.

Good luck, I wish you well.

Since OP is not a builder and has no insurance, this is sadly an option that maybe should be strongly considered. If it was me in this circumstance, I’d pay whatever it takes to get an RV expert like Vic Syracuse or somebody out to look and the plane and detail the options, and parting out would be toward the top of the list, if for no other reason because it would likely get me back into the air much sooner.
 
The plane would have some decent value "as-is, where-is" to an experienced builder as a renovation project.
 
Oh ya by the way. Do not feel bad that you don't have an insurance company to cover the cost.
I do not either.
If I wreck, bend, burn ETC my little bird. I will and can have to fix it myself.
You're not alone.
I do carry liability though.
Art
 
DanH replied to you and appears he has also sent you a PM. If there is anyone you could choose to help you with this, he is THE MAN! Give him a call ASAP. You will not find anyone better to help with your repairs!
 
I am sorry for your misfortune and hope it is back flying again sooner than later.

I am surprised no one has asked, do you know the cause of fire. Perhaps that can be used as a lesson learned for some folks.
 
DanH replied to you and appears he has also sent you a PM. If there is anyone you could choose to help you with this, he is THE MAN! Give him a call ASAP. You will not find anyone better to help with your repairs!

Yep.......
 
Different airplane (Arion Lightning with Jabiru 3300) but recently had the float/needle stick open on the carb and had gas pouring out the carb onto the ramp. Engine would not idle but was running. Just a miracle that the gas dripping onto the muffler (strategically placed under the carb) did not ignite.

I'm pretty sure I dodged a bullet. My wife and CFI were in the plane, they came back to the hangar when the run-up was not good.

When I took it apart, the carb was cleaner inside than any carb I had ever disassembled, so no idea why the float stuck, but I put a new float and needle into it for good measure since it seems a failure mode that could easily kill you or lead to loss of the airplane on the ground.
 
Carbs

The OP's engine is fuel injected. The marvel carbs on the Lycoming have had issues with float rubbing against the bowl causing the float to stick. This is at least partially due to the poor fit of the float on the pivot point.
The fuel injection is very easy to flood. I once helped a transient with a fire by jumping up on the wind and telling the pilot what to do. Full throttle, mixture idle cutoff and when the engine starts it will blow the fire out. Low wing airplane and the door was open.
 
I've spoken with Matt. We'll see if cause can be determined, and report if it's interesting.
 
I've spoken with Matt. We'll see if cause can be determined, and report if it's interesting.

Fundamental cause was very poor hose routing when the engine was installed. Not a homebuilder error; this engine was installed four years ago by a professional shop, and annualed by the same shop ever since.

Photos below. The fuel hose between the engine pump and the updraft fuel injection was hard against two motor mount tubes and less than 1/4" from an exhaust header. Hose was double braided rubber, baked crispy brittle in the vicinity of the pipe. The liner cracked, possibly during start up shake, and leaked fuel into the firesleeve lining. The owner made it to the runup pad, where it quit, then caught fire when he attempted to restart.

Don't be cavalier about fuel hose routing. I see a lot of them too close to exhausts, and there is never any reason to be rubbing stationary structure.

Postscript....the rest of the story: https://www.danhorton.net/Maisano Fire Recovery N3455/Maisano Fire Recovery N3455.docx
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Different airplane (Arion Lightning with Jabiru 3300) but recently had the float/needle stick open on the carb and had gas pouring out the carb onto the ramp. Engine would not idle but was running. Just a miracle that the gas dripping onto the muffler (strategically placed under the carb) did not ignite.

I'm pretty sure I dodged a bullet. My wife and CFI were in the plane, they came back to the hangar when the run-up was not good.

When I took it apart, the carb was cleaner inside than any carb I had ever disassembled, so no idea why the float stuck, but I put a new float and needle into it for good measure since it seems a failure mode that could easily kill you or lead to loss of the airplane on the ground.

A procedure that can catch carb float problems during pre-start.... fuel pump on... watch for max pressure... fuel pump off... is max pressure held?
Or did it bleed off, indicating a leak.
 
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All "professional" means is they get paid for their work. Definitely does not imply competence.

So, it appears there's some sort of fiberglass blanket on the firewall which hopefully spared everything firewall-aft? The windshield looks like it got a bit crispy, but that's not too difficult to replace.
 
So, it appears there's some sort of fiberglass blanket on the firewall which hopefully spared everything firewall-aft? The windshield looks like it got a bit crispy, but that's not too difficult to replace.

That particular product is useful as a comfort insulation, but only moderately effective against fire. Most if it just fell off anywhere it got hot. However, better than nothing, and it doesn't create a safety issue.

The original builder installed Thermozite or a similar fibrous insulation product on the inside of the firewall, a serious safety issue. Bad juju for sure. It got very close to cooking off, but luckily, the fire guys were quick with the cooling hose.

Actually a lot of luck working here. It happened on the ground. It was near the fire station (4 minute response), and they used plain water. It wasn't running, so there was no pumped fuel feed, just enough bleeding from the hose and pump to set the rubber and plastic on fire in the upper rear. No good airflow either.

Does not appear to be any damage to the engine core, just mags and senders. It will need a new firewall, and when it's off, the 7107's, 7108, and the 7106 skin can be checked for temper loss where they were in contact with the stainless. No other structural concerns. Windshield is fine, simply wet in the photos, which made everything look a lot worse than it really is. Engine mount will need bead blasted and a trip to the powdercoat shop. And of course it needs a new cowl.
 
Does not appear to be any damage to the engine core, just mags and senders. It will need a new firewall, and when it's off, the 7107's, 7108, and the 7106 skin can be checked for temper loss where they were in contact with the stainless. No other structural concerns. Windshield is fine, simply wet in the photos, which made everything look a lot worse than it really is. Engine mount will need bead blasted and a trip to the powdercoat shop. And of course it needs a new cowl.

Sounds like a bullet was dodged......
 
That sounds like a great tip, I'm sure it is not on the pre-start checklist.

A procedure that can catch carb float problems during pre-start.... fuel pump on... watch for max pressure... fuel pump off... is max pressure held?
Or did it bleed off, indicating a leak.
 
Fundamental cause was very poor hose routing when the engine was installed. Not a homebuilder error; this engine was installed four years ago by a professional shop, and annualed by the same shop ever since.

Photos below. The fuel hose between the engine pump and the updraft fuel injection was hard against two motor mount tubes and less than 1/4" from an exhaust header. Hose was double braided rubber, baked crispy brittle in the vicinity of the pipe. The liner cracked, possibly during start up shake, and leaked fuel into the firesleeve lining. The owner made it to the runup pad, where it quit, then caught fire when he attempted to restart.

Don't be cavalier about fuel hose routing. I see a lot of them too close to exhausts, and there is never any reason to be rubbing stationary structure.
.
Thanks Dan. At least we can learn or be reminded of the right way to do things from this incident. Thankfully it all happened on the ground and no one was injured. This could have been so much worse. Thankfully these photos are from you, and not the NTSB.
 
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