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Should I Lubricate the Step Sockets?

1001001

Well Known Member
When fitting/installing the steps, no mention is made in the plans of lubricating or corrosion-protecting the steps and their steel sockets.

I primed one step but have found that it couldn't be inserted in the socket without removing the primer. The unprimed step goes in fine.

Should I consider greasing the step and socket for corrosion protection and for wear protection? I could see water getting into the sockets from outside and causing a corrosion/erosion problem over time. I'd think the HDPE step blocks are relatively self-lubricating, and grease might damage them over time, so I'd probably leave them alone.

Also, once the step's inserted, I'd probably apply primer to the step shaft, but the part inside the socket can't be primed. I would not consider removing metal from either the step or socket, because this ought to be a tight fit to prevent damage over time from excess flexing.

What do you think/what have other RV-10 builders done?
 
I agree with your finding, that primer is not always effective, especially when it will get scored/abraided while inserting the step tubes, reducing it's effectiveness.

I wiped the sockets and tubes down with corrosion X, and then plan to reapply, most likely every other annual.
 
Steel on steel connections require grease if you ever want to take them apart. The step is example, the gear legs into weldment is another.

Grease is cheap, use more…..

Carl
 
Thanks for the replies. It makes sense to lubricate these surfaces (and the gear mounts, as Carl mentions).
 
I used ant seize to grease them, and watch the welds for cracks.
 

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Did anyone attempt to apply something like CorrosionX to the insides of the steps? I'm planning on pouring some in and capping the open end and swirling it around until the whole thing is coated on ths inside.
 
Did anyone attempt to apply something like CorrosionX to the insides of the steps? I'm planning on pouring some in and capping the open end and swirling it around until the whole thing is coated on ths inside.

Nope, I primed the inside. Never had a use for Corrosion X, but I’m told it tends to migrate with time.

Carl
 
I presume you poured some in and swished it around?

I used to do that. Now I just put the paint gun nozzle into whatever tube I’m priming until I’m satisfied the inside is covered. For long push tubes I do this from both sides. This still makes a mess, but not quite as bad as the pour, swish and dump method.

I do however cap off an end of tubes and pour in a little Coleman fuel, swish it around then dump. Most of our aluminum is pretty clean so this may be a step too far but does not hurt. For steel however there may be some oil residue left over from manufacturing.

Carl
 
You can also use linseed oil on the interior of the tube. Drys to a gummy coating that will not migrate. Many old rag and tube planes used it.
 
Another option is to paint with red oxide primer and assemble wet. I've seen both anti corrosion grease and red oxide primer wet used in similar applications. The wet paint method helps eliminate slop / movement. If a little movement isn't an issue, then the grease is probably easier from a long term maintenance standpoint.
 
Be careful with linseed oil. I started fires twice by leaving a wadded up rag I used to wipe linseed oil with. It will catch fire if left wadded up.
 
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