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An 80% solution with S/W P60G2

gotyoke

Well Known Member
I've decided I want to prime with Sherwin Williams P60G2, but I've never used a spray gun before. I've now sunk 3 hours of research into it, including several threads on these forums, and have come up with what I believe is an 80% solution (i.e., I could spend a whole lot more time and money to get modestly better results...not worth it). Now I want to know from you armchair experts to see if there is anything really important I'm missing before I go drop some cash.

Equipment:

Preparation:
  • Lightly scuff with red Scotchbrite pad
  • Wipe down with acetone
  • 1 to 1.75 primer (well shaken) to reducer mix, more reducer if needed
  • Strain the primer mix into the cup
  • Setup gun for a nice cigar pattern (thanks youtube)
  • Not too cold or you get consistency issues

Application:
  • 35 to 45 static PSI at the regulator
  • Spray 90 degrees to the surface about 6 inches away
  • Just enough sprayed on to see that there is something there, not too thick
  • Don't take breaks or the primer will harden in the gun (use laquer thinner to clear)

Final:
  • Clean up for 7 hours

Fire away!
 
I did not see any air filtration in your list. A 30 gal tank will cause more cycling and heat build up. There is a greater chance of moisture condensing out in the line/hose when that happens. 30 is fine, recognizing the limits.

Moisture traps-desiccants and filters can do that job. Remember, paint application contamination can be picked up anywhere that air as been. Your other hardware looks like a good start and with a little practice you will be fine.

FYI My tank is now 60 gal, with two stage inter-cooled compressor, and I use a box fan for long usage sessions (sand blasting).
 
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Spray gun cleaner

Instead of lacquer thinner for cleaning the gun, consider “Spray Gun Cleaner” it is sold at most paint stores.
 
Over thinking this

You are overthinking this.
1) never had primer harden in gun.
2) it is not "reducer" just a catalysis. So use 1.3 to 2:1. adding more doesn't make it noticeably "thinner"
3) used lacquer thinner to clean up.
4) I use harbor frieght gun as sold by them, never a problem
5) keep the mask on from when you open either container until all the stuff is in the trash and noting is wet around you. My chemist friend said it is not the quad-valent chromium that is the major concern but the solvent used. if yo smell it, mask is no good and you are hurting yourself. don't use a harbor freight mask, use a good quality 3M from aviation isle of Home depot.
6) I never used a fancy spray pattern, i tried to get as big as fan pattern as I could and if you are doing it after dimpling, then rotate part, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.
7) primer gets much darker as it dries and ages, so very light coat.
8) prep is good, i dont think you need any more steps
9) no fire near the stuff, otherwise the plane will have a premature first flight.
;-)
 
Advise

You are overthinking this.
1) never had primer harden in gun.
2) it is not "reducer" just a catalysis. So use 1.3 to 2:1. adding more doesn't make it noticeably "thinner"
3) used lacquer thinner to clean up.
4) I use harbor frieght gun as sold by them, never a problem
5) keep the mask on from when you open either container until all the stuff is in the trash and noting is wet around you. My chemist friend said it is not the quad-valent chromium that is the major concern but the solvent used. if yo smell it, mask is no good and you are hurting yourself. don't use a harbor freight mask, use a good quality 3M from aviation isle of Home depot.
6) I never used a fancy spray pattern, i tried to get as big as fan pattern as I could and if you are doing it after dimpling, then rotate part, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.
7) primer gets much darker as it dries and ages, so very light coat.
8) prep is good, i dont think you need any more steps
9) no fire near the stuff, otherwise the plane will have a premature first flight.
;-)

This is excellent advise for P60G2. I would add...
Hobby Air respirator or at least 3M #60926 respirator filters.
Do no leave the latter exposed. Place in a sealed bag when not in use.
Prep, I prefer scuff with maroon. Debur. Dimple. Scrub with Bin Ami. Rinse. Dry. Prime.
As mentioned, shoot just till you see color and quit.
 
You are overthinking this.

I got the HF paint gun yesterday and messed with it today. It appears you are right, this seems like it's going to be no problem at all. I think I'm even going to be able to get by with my 12-gallon air compressor (still looking into the filter), which is great because that saves me hundreds that I can put into the plane.
 
I would add:
- Stir the primer (or any paint) to get the thick stuff off the bottom.
- I like to clean the parts with scotchbrite and water with BonAmi. Sometimes I use Dawn dishwashing liquid first to get any grease/grime off the parts if there is any. Rinse well, check for no beading of the water, should sheet off.
 
Today

I would add:
- Stir the primer (or any paint) to get the thick stuff off the bottom.
- I like to clean the parts with scotchbrite and water with BonAmi. Sometimes I use Dawn dishwashing liquid first to get any grease/grime off the parts if there is any. Rinse well, check for no beading of the water, should sheet off.

Today I painted the last pieces for the interior. I used PG60G2 and JetFlex paint.
Did the simple scothbrite scrub and acetone wipe. sprayed primer, let it dry while I mixed the paint, sprayed the paint. start to finish cleaning up in 2 hours. the whole time with respirator on. Had to repaint the throttle piece because I touched it wet, that took me another 1 hour from breaking out the paint again to all clean. I dont over think this for the interior primer and/or interior paint. Exterior is another story. i wouldn't do that stuff. The PG60P2 primer and Jet Flex paint is amazing. Even a hack like me can get good results. The paint took 10 minutes to get all the solids mixed thou.
 

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