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Broke My Bracket, now have to Fab, other considerations...

bill.hutchison

Well Known Member
Sigh. First the standard disclaimer:

Anything dumb you see from me in this thread is the result of ignorance and I am learning. All advice and guidance is humbly appreciated.


Sometimes I wish I didn't learn things the hard way. Looks like I'm going to learn some fabrication skills one way or another...

Referring to the two attached photos...

As you can see here, the builder didn't use the plans-specified U-00713C Nose Wheel Fairing Bracket on this RV-6A, instead fabbing two brackets for holding the nose wheel fairing. Using the plans-specified bracket now would likely (but I'm not sure) result in mis-aligned holes in the current nose wheel fairing. I suppose I could do a new fairing...but...

In the second picture, you can see the forward bracket in my hand is cracked. Both sides are cracked in a similar fashion, and while I don't know for sure I'm pretty sure I did this when I lowered the fork onto a wood block once I removed the nose wheel to send off to AntiSplat.

Anyway...they'd probably be okay, but I try to do this stuff right, which means I need to fabricate new brackets.

This looks like a simple job for someone who knows what they are doing. Alas, I do not, but I recognize that this might be simple enough for a newbie to muddle through and learn a few things.

So. I'm going to go back to the "basic riveting tools thread" and figure out what I need for this. My question to you fine folks:

What kind of aluminum stock do I need to order for this, and do you have any specific advice on how to go about making new ones, using these as templates, knowing that I've never made something like this before? I'm optimistic that I can do it, just need a nudge in the right direction.

Thanks in advance.

-billy
 

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This is the old style.

Those most likely aren't home brewed parts. That's the way the nose wheel used to be. My 7a has that arrangement from 2003.

The parts you want are:

U-813D-L PR NOSE FAIRING BRKHT $5.75
U-813D-R PR NOSE FAIRING BRKHT $5.75

Looks like they are still available from Vans. Those are the front bracket part numbers - Left and Right respectively.

The rear parts are U-813C L/R .. but they don't appear to be available anymore.
 
What Ron said; your brackets are what were formerly used. I switched over to the new style on my -7A without too much trouble and found it to be a superior attachment method. Don’t remember the details now, but give Vans a call and I’m sure they can get you set up.

Erich
 
Those most likely aren't home brewed parts. That's the way the nose wheel used to be. My 7a has that arrangement from 2003.

The parts you want are:

U-813D-L PR NOSE FAIRING BRKHT $5.75
U-813D-R PR NOSE FAIRING BRKHT $5.75

Looks like they are still available from Vans. Those are the front bracket part numbers - Left and Right respectively.

The rear parts are U-813C L/R .. but they don't appear to be available anymore.

Erich Weaver - What Ron said; your brackets are what were formerly used. I switched over to the new style on my -7A without too much trouble and found it to be a superior attachment method. Don’t remember the details now, but give Vans a call and I’m sure they can get you set up.

Erich

Thanks guys. That's super-helpful. I'll definitely check into getting those brackets. I just assumed (haha, got me again) that they were home grown because they weren't what was in the plans.

I do like the idea of converting to the new ones but I suspect the holes are in the wrong place. Maybe. I'll talk to Vans.

A local mentor has offered to weld them up for me, but at a couple bucks each seems simpler to obtain new ones.
 
When you get the new brackets please smooth all edges well. If you do not do that, you will find that they will crack as well over time. Edges not smoothed are serious stress risers.
 
I do like the idea of converting to the new ones but I suspect the holes are in the wrong place. Maybe. I'll talk to Vans.

Extra holes in fiberglass are super easy to patch with a little epoxy and flox. The hardest part will be matching the paint after you've patched the hole.
 
Extra holes in fiberglass are super easy to patch with a little epoxy and flox. The hardest part will be matching the paint after you've patched the hole.

Good to know. Might be interesting to upgrade just to teach m'self a little fiberglas technique.

I wonder if there are any basic fiberglas kits/projects out there designed to teach a little bit about it, the same way Vans has the toolbox kits?

Vans tech support was very helpful and gave me some guidance about this - the original bracket type that I have has apparently all but been stricken from history. I get the idea about upgrading to make things easier in the future and maybe that's something to consider. Gives me an excuse to consider changing some of paint scheme via the nosewheel fairing....hmmmm....
 
Good to know. Might be interesting to upgrade just to teach m'self a little fiberglas technique.

I wonder if there are any basic fiberglas kits/projects out there designed to teach a little bit about it, the same way Vans has the toolbox kits?

Vans tech support was very helpful and gave me some guidance about this - the original bracket type that I have has apparently all but been stricken from history. I get the idea about upgrading to make things easier in the future and maybe that's something to consider. Gives me an excuse to consider changing some of paint scheme via the nosewheel fairing....hmmmm....

Hey Bill - Fiberglas repair, although sometimes messy, really isn’t that hard, and there are lots of ways to do it “right”. And a wheel pant is - for all practical considerations - a practice project in and of itself! I’m pretty much a duffer at the art, but get good enough results that people don’t know it - take a look at the article I wrote on fixing a torn-up pant a few years ago - it will give you some basic idea of what is easily done:

https://www.kitplanes.com/easy-wheelpant-repair/

Paul
 
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Hey Bill - Fiberglas repair, although sometimes messy, really isn’t that hard, and there are lots of ways to do it “right”. And a wheel pant is - for all practical considerations - a practice project in and of itself! I’m pretty much a duffer at the art, but get good enough results that people don’t know it - take a look at the article I wrote on fixing a torn-up pant a few years ago - it will give you some basic idea of what is easily done:

https://www.kitplanes.com/easy-wheelpant-repair/

Paul

That was inspiring!

Got me thinkin'....
 
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Hi Bill, Noel here. I need to update my personal info here, but...
I have relocated to St Mary's Airport (2W6) and have both my -6A and my C 150 in hangars here.

When I built my -6A, it used the "old style" nose wheel fork and wheel pants. It flew in that configuration until Van's released the newer style nose wheel fork and attachment method for the nose wheel pants. I procured all the required parts and new fiberglass wheel pants. The new style is much easier to remove and the removal of the nose wheel is no longer required.

You are welcome to stop by and see both types of mounting methods for the pants and the differences in the nose wheel fork if intrested.
 
Yeah, I'm aware - thank you, though. I've had a lengthy discussion with the previous owner and a couple of experts. I'm debating whether or not to go through the process on this.

I agree with you. I think most of the problems were caused by changing from the Cleveland nose wheel, axle style change, and finally the sealed bearings.

There was more of a binding problem than a clearance problem..... especially if you stay on blacktop.
 
I agree with you. I think most of the problems were caused by changing from the Cleveland nose wheel, axle style change, and finally the sealed bearings.

There was more of a binding problem than a clearance problem..... especially if you stay on blacktop.

I had a talk with Vans tech support about it. You can't change out the fork without changing the gear leg, so that isn't an option. From what they describe, removing the gear leg doesn't seem that difficult - pull the bolt up near the motor mount, pull the thing out of the socket.

I've had AntiSplat do the bearing mod (because I like maintenance-free options) and I've added the NoseJob to it as well, so I'm getting the impression that doing the gear leg is a belt-and-suspenders situation. Still - probably would be valuable to a future buyer, and it's not THAT bad in the grand scheme of things so I may do it later on when I've got the airplane out of service for the next CI and/or panel upgrade, whichever comes first.

I do stay on paved/improved runways.
 
I had a talk with Vans tech support about it. You can't change out the fork without changing the gear leg, so that isn't an option. From what they describe, removing the gear leg doesn't seem that difficult - pull the bolt up near the motor mount, pull the thing out of the socket.

I've had AntiSplat do the bearing mod (because I like maintenance-free options) and I've added the NoseJob to it as well, so I'm getting the impression that doing the gear leg is a belt-and-suspenders situation. Still - probably would be valuable to a future buyer, and it's not THAT bad in the grand scheme of things so I may do it later on when I've got the airplane out of service for the next CI and/or panel upgrade, whichever comes first.

I do stay on paved/improved runways.

The leg just needs to be sent in to be cut off and re-threaded.
 
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