Most Commonly Applied Primers

gregfuess · #1 10-03-2022, 05:51 PM

I would start a poll, but I don't know the most commonly applied primers to include in it. While I live in arid and dry New Mexico, I plan to fly to coastal areas. And for general good practice, want to prime the interior.

While I prefer rattle cans for convenience, I am not against using a LPHV applicator and two part primer.

Also thinking a good surface prep would do no harm either, but don't know what kind for that, either. I've reached out to a few companies, AKZONobel and ZipChem, and getting a response is difficult. ZipChem did respond, but the rep copied lots of people, and I got lots of different responses. Not a consensus answer, which was a strike against them.

Any advise appreciated. Ordered all kits at the end of February, and the wing kit arrives first, and tomorrow.

terrye · #2 10-03-2022, 06:00 PM

I used Henkel's Alumiprep (cleaner) and 1201 Alodine (conversion coating), followed by PPG Super Koropon fluid resistant epoxy primer. Very satisfied with the results but it is a LOT of extra work. I don't think a rattle can primer can in any way compare. You'll need an HVLP gun (might as well get a good one).

https://krayden.com/technical-data-s...al_data_sheet/

https://www.ppgaerospace.com/Product...nt-Primer.aspx

For the cockpit I used Sherwin Williams Jetflex WR applied over top of the epoxy primer. Did this with the individual parts before they were riveted together and like the results.

https://industrial.sherwin-williams.....10662939.html

David Paule · #3 10-03-2022, 06:04 PM

Stewart makes a couple primers that some people use. I use their Ekopoxy sometimes.

Dave

wirejock · #4 10-03-2022, 06:14 PM

If you don't mind dealing with the PPE, it's pretty hard to beat SW P60G2. Easy to shoot. Very light. Second choice would be an epoxy 2k primer.
If you want a water based, Stewart Systems is the top choice.

skelrad · #5 10-03-2022, 06:29 PM

I vary what I use depending on the area (and my mood). I've used Stewart Ekoprime for just about everything though. I love the fact that there is no real "pot life" like an epoxy primer, so if I have any left over, I can save it for the next spray session. It may not be as tough as epoxy, but for interior parts that never get touched or see the light of day after they're built, it works great and is very easy to deal with. I do keep a few rattle cans around for the random small parts when I don't feel like pulling out the spray gun. The rattle can approach is definitely not as tough as the Ekoprime, but again, I fail to see it mattering in most interior cases. That being said, I am switching over to Ekopoxy for interior cabin priming since that area does get touched and beat up over the life of the plane. I will have a full interior covering most of the cabin area, otherwise I would top coat with paint to get the ultimate in durability.

lipper03 · #6 10-03-2022, 06:50 PM

Since I’m doing QB fuse and wing, on the EMP so far I’ve done prekote wash and SEM’s ezcoat rattle can. I did testing with a few others and liked ezcoat. Because I’m not doing fuse and wings myself, is why I stuck with rattle can.

Everwild · #7 10-03-2022, 07:45 PM

I'm using the Akzo epoxy primer and am very happy with the results. Coating seems bullet proof once cured. Can even dimple after priming and it doesn't chip. The product I'm using is 463-12-8 and CA-116 for A and B.

I scuff with Scotchbrite and a pre-treatment called PreKote. Probably an overpriced degreaser but it has worked well. Some have mentioned using Bon Ami as a suitable degreaser. I think the key is to get your parts as clean as possible and scuff the surface adequately so the coating adheres mechanically.

The 3M Accuspray system is a game changer IMO. No cleanup to speak of which means less exposure to fumes etc. The 3M gun requires a fair amount of air volume so you'll need a decent sized tank on your compressor for large parts.

Use high-quality PPE and build some sort of booth to pull the vapors out. I'm fortunate in that my shop is not attached to the house. The fumes are strong even with good ventilation. It cures fast so I try to spray outside when the weather is suitable.

I also purchased two Rockler Mix Mates to store parts A and B. Allows me to mix them without being exposed to the fumes and makes it easy to pour out the right proportions without making a mess or wasting it.

Cons, it's somewhat expensive. I found a guy in Detroit that will sell it for $200 for a two gallon kit. AKZO lists distributors on their site so you might be able to find a seller near you. Spruce was like $400 and SkyGeek was over $300 + shipping last time I looked. I also wish the AKZO was a grey vs green. Unless you're going for a military look it's pretty ugly but it will be covered up for the most part.

Prepping and priming adds a fair amount of time to the build. My guess is 10-15% of my time is spent scuffing and priming.

gregfuess · #8 10-03-2022, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wirejock

If you don't mind dealing with the PPE, it's pretty hard to beat SW P60G2. Easy to shoot. Very light. Second choice would be an epoxy 2k primer.
If you want a water based, Stewart Systems is the top choice.

Any recommended, or the same question in a roundabout way, which are you using now?

gregfuess · #9 10-03-2022, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Everwild

I'm using the Akzo epoxy primer and am very happy with the results. Coating seems bullet proof once cured.

Any estimates of how many gallons you'd need to completion?

Everwild · #10 10-03-2022, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregfuess

Any estimates of how many gallons you'd need to completion?

My guess is 4 gallons total. 2 kits. Maybe more? I used most of a set on the empennage, but, I think I had the air pressure dialed up higher than necessary when I was learning how to use it. I was making a lot of overspray. The finish looks great but I was sending most of it through my spray booth. There's a balance between getting good atomization and wasting primer.