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2K primers

scsmith

Well Known Member
This is new to me. I kept seeing references to 2K primer so I thought I would go find out what it is. Eastwood is the brand I read about. I guess there is an older version where the catalyst is in a bladder, and a newer version where the catalyst is deactivated and re-activates on contact with water vapor in the air?

I wonder what happens in the west in the summer when the relative humidity is in single digits? Will the primer still cure?

So this stuff really does a pretty good job of replicating a true epoxy primer?
Its pretty expensive at $28 for a rattle can, but I can see the convenience for small amounts, unless you have some buddies that can split a gallon of AKZO among several users - then that may be more cost effective.
 
FYI, 2K means two part or Catalyzed. It is a generic term in the paint industry.

Unfamiliar with a product like that mentioned. Most quality PU paints and primers use Isocyanates as the catalyst and their chemical reaction that provides curing requires no moisture. I would be a little concerned that a moisture cure product may not have the strength and durability properties that we have become accustomed to with the typical epoxy primers on the market. I have never seen a primer or epoxy that was moisture cured. Pretty typical with silicone and other 1K adhesives and sealants. If it is truly a 2K, I also would be concerned that low humidity environments may not fully activate all catalyzing particles. I do know that mix ratios need to be in a moderately sized range to deliver advertised results. Certainly not precision, but not extremely wide either. This seems like a bit of a stretch in order to make 2K work in a single can and I would proceed with caution, as this seems quite unproven in the market.

If there is not a large skull and crossbones on the can, demanding significant breathing protection, it does not have Isocyanates and I would avoid it. I have my suspicions that lawyers would not allow that in a pre-packaged aerosol can sold to the retail market. It is NASTY stuff and most breathing mask filters won't stop it; Only the highest level, chemical versions do.

A quart of SPI Epoxy primer and a quart of activator (mixed 1:1 for 1/2 gallon sprayable) is about $90 total + free shipping. Top quality stuff and can be mixed easily in very small portions. Only hassle averted is gun and cup cleaning, but I believe offset by the consistency achieved with a gun vs aerosol can.

Larry
 
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Kirker Enduro Prime

They don't make a 2K rattle can but Kirker does manufacture Easrwood and Summit.
I use Kirker Enduro Prime. It's a 2K but not rattle can. Free of lead chromates and isocyanates. Gallon of primer is $100. Gallon of Catalyst $70. White, Gray and Black
I still use a Hobby Air to be safe.
Dry to touch overnight and can be wetsanded the next morning.
Hard as a rock in a few days. Top coat within five days.
I sprayed the wheels on my 4x4 several years ago. They still look new after all the weather and road salt.
 
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I use Kirker Enduro Prime. It's a 2K but not rattle can. Free of lead chromates and isocyanates.

While much safer to use, I would expect that adhesion may not be as strong as more typical primers that will cross link (i.e. chemically bond) with the top coat. You would be limited to just mechanical adhesion. Don't uderstand the chemisty with the kirker paint so not sure this is truly an issue. it has always been my understanding that cross linking is important between base coat and primer (one of the reasons many activate their base with a cap full of activator). Not as much so for SS, as clear has a good mechanical grip.

Larry
 
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Crosslink

While much safer to use, I would expect that adhesion may not be as strong as more typical primers that will cross link (i.e. chemically bond) with the top coat. You would be limited to just mechanical adhesion. Don't uderstand the chemisty with the kirker paint so not sure this is truly an issue. it has always been my understanding that cross linking is important between base coat and primer (one of the reasons many activate their base with a cap full of activator). Not as much so for SS, as clear has a good mechanical grip.

Larry

I also shoot Kirker single stage urethane. Their tech support recommends top coat between one hour and five days for proper chemical crosslinking. Typical process is wet sand after 12 hours followed by top coat. They sell the whole system so its intended to work together with either single or two stage urethane.
Op asked about primer so that's all I answered.
 
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This is new to me. I kept seeing references to 2K primer so I thought I would go find out what it is. Eastwood is the brand I read about. I guess there is an older version where the catalyst is in a bladder, and a newer version where the catalyst is deactivated and re-activates on contact with water vapor in the air?

I wonder what happens in the west in the summer when the relative humidity is in single digits? Will the primer still cure?

So this stuff really does a pretty good job of replicating a true epoxy primer?
Its pretty expensive at $28 for a rattle can, but I can see the convenience for small amounts, unless you have some buddies that can split a gallon of AKZO among several users - then that may be more cost effective.

I didn't use the rattle can but I used their epoxy primer that is mixed 1:1 with a catalizer. It flows very thin like paint so you can spray it using your paint gun. I pained all my exterior surfaces with this stuff. However, I only sprayed in the early morning hours before the air temperature reached 80degF. After 2-3 days in the heat of the garage or patio, the epoxy coating is fully cured and you can wet sand it with 400grit to provide a smooth surface for painting.
 
This is new to me. I kept seeing references to 2K primer so I thought I would go find out what it is. Eastwood is the brand I read about. I guess there is an older version where the catalyst is in a bladder, and a newer version where the catalyst is deactivated and re-activates on contact with water vapor in the air?

I wonder what happens in the west in the summer when the relative humidity is in single digits? Will the primer still cure?

So this stuff really does a pretty good job of replicating a true epoxy primer?
Its pretty expensive at $28 for a rattle can, but I can see the convenience for small amounts, unless you have some buddies that can split a gallon of AKZO among several users - then that may be more cost effective.

Don't use Eastwood 2k primer!!! It's only for automotive application and works as a primer before painting. It's too soft. I realized this after I have completed a vertical stabilizer.... I had to trash it and I build the second one, but now primed with Akzo
 
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