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  #41  
Old 01-28-2019, 07:12 AM
jeffw@sc47's Avatar
jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
Posts: 424
Default One D-sub connector?

The EIC has one male D-sub connector. How do I wire two P-mags to interface?

I have already wired up two D-subs, one for each P-mag, to interface to use the EICAD program initially.
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Jeff Warren
Simpsonville, SC (@SC47 > 10nm NW Triple Tree)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195
FF 11/24/21; Phs 1 completed
Contribution made 12/9/21 (USArmy 2/67-2/70)
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  #42  
Old 01-28-2019, 07:56 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffw@sc47 View Post
The EIC has one male D-sub connector. How do I wire two P-mags to interface?

I have already wired up two D-subs, one for each P-mag, to interface to use the EICAD program initially.
Jeff, just make a Y adapter that comes from each DB9 connector to the DB15 connector required by the EIC.

Did you bring the tach line to each of the DB9 connectors? That is required.
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Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
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  #43  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:17 AM
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jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
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Default TACH INPUT

Yes, I brought both tach inputs to each the separate DB9's.

So, each separate P-mag is distinguishable when Y-wired to one DB9 connector brought to the EIC?

Is that also the case when connected to a PC?
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Jeff Warren
Simpsonville, SC (@SC47 > 10nm NW Triple Tree)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195
FF 11/24/21; Phs 1 completed
Contribution made 12/9/21 (USArmy 2/67-2/70)
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  #44  
Old 01-28-2019, 10:58 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffw@sc47 View Post
So, each separate P-mag is distinguishable when Y-wired to one DB9 connector brought to the EIC?

Is that also the case when connected to a PC?
The two DB9s are connected to a DB15, which connects to the EIC. You could, optionally, connect them directly to the DB15 but would not then be able to connect individually to a PC, if later desired.
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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
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  #45  
Old 01-28-2019, 11:42 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Default

Ray is correct.

The PC USB to serial converters are DB9 connectors. You can plug a PC in to either P-mag, as needed.

Had you wired your P-mags to one DB15 connector and wanted to use a PC withe the EICAD program, you would have to make a reverse Y cable to go from the DB15 to two DB9 plugs.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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  #46  
Old 03-22-2019, 04:15 PM
Aggie78 Aggie78 is offline
 
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Location: New Braunfels, Texas
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post

This all assumes I?m good at setting my timing mark at 1.5* after TDC. I didn?t have a propeller protractor to do this, so my method of measurement might be a little crude.
Scott (and Bill),

So, I?m about to embark on installing the 2nd Pmag on my aircraft (have been running 1 on the left/Slick on the right for the last 3 years) and I am following the information on this thread closely and intend to set the timing up on BOTH as you did and as Bill recommends (1.4* shifted).

Regarding measurement of that 1.4*, would a circular protractor, downloaded, printed out and attached to the flywheel be (perhaps) a more accurate way of measuring?

This website:

https://www.blocklayer.com/protractor-printeng.aspx

...Allows you to create a template up to 30? in diameter. My thoughts would be to print an appropriately sized, anti-clocked, circular protractor, attach it to the flywheel and then use it as accurately as I can to set the mags after moving it 1.4* after TDC.

More or less accurate than counting teeth or am I being overly detail-oriented in this? Just count teeth, set the mags and it?ll be fine?

Thanks,

Rob S.
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  #47  
Old 03-22-2019, 05:10 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Rob,
That protractor should work as long as the printed copy is true. You should check it with a simple plastic protractor. Another possibility would be to use your cell phone with an angle finder app, or level app. My iPhone has one. Tape it to your prop at TDC, zero the digital readout on the app, and then move the prop 1.4*. Make sure you go the correct direction (counter-clockwise looking at it from the front - aft), so you are retarding the timing v.s. advancing it.
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SH
RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019/sold2021
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JAN2022
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  #48  
Old 03-22-2019, 05:19 PM
Aggie78 Aggie78 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
Rob,
That protractor should work as long as the printed copy is true. You should check it with a simple plastic protractor. Another possibility would be to use your cell phone with an angle finder app, or level app. My iPhone has one. Tape it to your prop at TDC, zero the digital readout on the app, and then move the prop 1.4*. Make sure you go the correct direction (counter-clockwise looking at it from the front - aft), so you are retarding the timing v.s. advancing it.

Brilliant!

In 30 seconds, I downloaded and installed a free protractor app that will do the trick just as you described!

Outstanding tip, Scott! Thanks!!

Rob
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YIO-360-M1B
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  #49  
Old 03-23-2019, 11:25 PM
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WingnutWick WingnutWick is offline
 
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Location: Fresno, CA (KFCH)
Posts: 308
Default Not past TDC?

Unless I?m missing something, I?m pretty sure the 1.4 shift is done through the Emag program and not by setting the actual past TDC. For the 0-360s I think it?s reccomended to electronically shift the curve 1.4 via the software while timed at TDC. So as long as you have a TDC mark, you shouldn?t need to do any of this protractor measuring. Electronically shifting the curve 1.4 via the software is not the same as timing the Pmags to 1.4 past TDC.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggie78 View Post
Scott (and Bill),

So, I?m about to embark on installing the 2nd Pmag on my aircraft (have been running 1 on the left/Slick on the right for the last 3 years) and I am following the information on this thread closely and intend to set the timing up on BOTH as you did and as Bill recommends (1.4* shifted).

Regarding measurement of that 1.4*, would a circular protractor, downloaded, printed out and attached to the flywheel be (perhaps) a more accurate way of measuring?

This website:

https://www.blocklayer.com/protractor-printeng.aspx

...Allows you to create a template up to 30? in diameter. My thoughts would be to print an appropriately sized, anti-clocked, circular protractor, attach it to the flywheel and then use it as accurately as I can to set the mags after moving it 1.4* after TDC.

More or less accurate than counting teeth or am I being overly detail-oriented in this? Just count teeth, set the mags and it?ll be fine?

Thanks,

Rob S.
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F-18E/F, Mk.58, CF-5
Own: RV-8 & RV-10
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  #50  
Old 03-24-2019, 08:28 AM
Aggie78 Aggie78 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 451
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WingnutWick View Post
Unless I’m missing something, I’m pretty sure the 1.4 shift is done through the Emag program and not by setting the actual past TDC. For the 0-360s I think it’s reccomended to electronically shift the curve 1.4 via the software while timed at TDC. So as long as you have a TDC mark, you shouldn’t need to do any of this protractor measuring. Electronically shifting the curve 1.4 via the software is not the same as timing the Pmags to 1.4 past TDC.
Wick,

Go back to page 1, first post and scroll down to where Bill talks about "clocking" the mags....

That's what is being discussed here...physically advancing the engine 1.4* past TDC and then setting the timing of the Pmags there via the instructions found in their manual.

Measuring and setting that 1.4* is what I'm using the protractor for.
-Rob
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