What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Paint Completed Engine...Already Painted

Karetaker

Well Known Member
Howdy Everyone. I'm struggling with how to handle this situation. I just bought a "new" engine, never mounted nor ran since built/tested by Aero Sport Power in 2012. The engine is dirty and I hate the color. So, I want to repaint it, polish a few things, maybe do some plating...but I hate the fact of painting it as a whole; I would rather disassemble it and strip the current color off and start from scratch. BUT, I also hate the idea of taking the engine apart and dealing with everything involved with disassembly and reassembly of a "new" engine just to paint it. I have only done a very limited amount of research so far, to figure out what parts and hardware need to be replaced once I start taking things apart; which could get quite involved/costly depending how far I go.

All right, so... options? Opinions? What is the best way to remove engine paint? (No idea what Aero Sport Power used back in 2012) I guess that once again, depends on how far I go with the disassembly...can you tell I'm stressing a little!

Much obliged.
 
You may want to rethink this. I bought mine from Aero Sport 2011 and the warranty started on engine start. I have over 600 hours with no problems so I’m past warranty for sure. If u dis-assemble it I think your warranty is then gone. U may want to ask them if u are concerned about it.
 
+1 on warranty

I would bet that if you disassemble it, the warranty is gone...likely the customer service, too...

When the cowl is on, which is most of the time, you are not going to see it...

As a point of reference, I know of a guy that had a miscommunication and got the wrong color on his engine; I think he said the builder would charge in excess of $3000 to repaint it...
 
video

Mike, you've got over 300 videos on your channel, perhaps take a video of the engine and we can then have more info to base our opinion on.

I can give you mine - since you asked :D - don't bother repainting it, no matter how "ugly" it is. Once everything is on there, and the baffles or the plenum, you won't see the paint on the engine that much. Plus, your cowl will be on 99% of the time once you are flying.

If, even after it's all together and you see something that really bothers you, clean and repaint just that bit.
 
Last edited:
I am not concerned with the warrantee; nor customer service. Aero Sport Power has treated me quite well even long before acquiring this engine. I am fine voiding the warrantee.

Engine video on my channel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA6MCuH8PVk&t=105s

To most it may not be ugly, it just doesn't look the way I would like. I may just clean it and leave it as is...maybe.

If not, what is a good way to remove the existing paint? I may just pull of simple accessory items that can readily be installed again without buying torque plates, through bolts, rings, pins, etc.,etc. Then strip, repaint and re assemble. The engine already has baffles but I most likely will replace those too...don't like the color!
 
The existing paint is going to be well bonded to the engine and parts.

Rather than stripping and repainting, you could just rattle-can some things with an automotive engine paint to give it a different look.
 
I have exactly the same engine from AeroSport so to answer some of the questions on your video:

1. The butterfly damper works very well in controlling oil temp, especially winter time. I came off cyl 3 to Vans RV10 plenum with a 13 row Niagara cooler on the firewall. Great cooling when it’s hot to.

2. The small port on the back baffle is for PMag cooling. Better to have one for each PMag.

3. The FAB (Fresh Air Box) is a Vans item.

4. The alternate air door is a Vans item the builder added to the FAB. Cable control works fine. Make sure you safety wire the hardware.

5. Baffles are a Vans item the builder cut to fit the RV7 cowl and added the rubber seals. ECI cylinders have tapered fins. Make sure the lower baffles are modified to seal these.

6. If your engine doesn’t have crank shaft counterweights make very sure when you get to prop selection you get one that is compatible with this engine. Ask me how I know. Long story here. Since it’s 2012 vintage I expect it doesn’t have counterweights.

7. If I were you I would not tear down this engine. But that’s just me.

If you want I could send pictures of my installation that might help clarify things. PM if interested.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Dennis. Since making the video, I have figured out the items in question and understand the baffles, tapered cylinders, etc., etc. I also understand the subtleties associated with these modified engines when it comes to prop selection. (Another thread I started a couple months back.) The propeller is ordered and should arrive next month; designed for this -375,9:5-1, non counterweighted, P-Mag engine.

I appreciate the input. I agree with everyone in that I am leaning towards only removing the accessories and any part that can be removed without issue. Paint what I can, clean, inspect, reassemble and cowl it as soon as possible! (I kid, but you get the idea.)
 
Your engine is a lot prettier than mine. Mine is a solid gray.

You can replace the rocker covers with colored anodized ones that are lighter. A fairly easy change.

Dave
 
My engine (from Aerosport Power) is that gold color. I like it. It make finding blue stain fuel leaks easy, and is relatively bright color.
Like others have said, once the cowling is on my RV-7A, you can't see 95* of the engine, and the remaining 5* only with a flashlight.
 
Beautiful looking engine! If its dirty, I really didn’t see it - but that is easily taken care of with a solvent wash using a siphon sprayer (less than $20 from Harbor Fright....). I certainly wouldn’t do anything invasive to it - you can pull rocker covers and paint them or plate them if you want a slightly different look. Same with pushrod tube covers - easy to remove, paint, replace - if that is important to you.

One thing to note is that if the P-Mags date back to 2012, you probably should send them in for software updates. And check on the date/serial number of the prop governor as well - there was a Service bulletin on those a few years back a free a couple of them came apart. Don’t know if yours is in that timeframe, but worth checking since it is easy to R&R with the engine off the airframe.

FYI - When we built out Tundra, the project came with a ten-year-old zero-time Superior engine built by Eagle Engines - it had been stored for all those years in the desert west with no special dehydration, just standard preservation. We broke it in normally and it now has close to 400 hours on it with perfect service and no issues - just as clean as on day one. So those “old” new engines can be pretty sweet deals.

Paul
 
Augghhh! You guys are killing me! (in a good way!) I get it..."fixing" something that isn't broke...I am coming to terms with not opening up a can or worms and just keep it simple. Thanks for keeping me grounded.

Paul, I appreciate the insight. I am itching to get into pulling accessories and cleaning/inspecting everything. I am holding off for now as it is 20 deg. in Ohio and I can't paint. I've already begun acquiring the various overhaul/operators/installation manuals from the various sources so I know what I need to do with these NOS parts. I did my own complete rebuild of my A-65 back when and really enjoyed it.
 
SDS, the electronic ignition people, have custom rocker covers anodized in many different colors. I would get them or maybe some chrome to brighten the engine up a bit. Your engine already looks better than 99% of the ones I see in flying planes when the cowl is opened.
 
Back
Top