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14 guage power run ... what connector?

bkervaski

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Installing a long run of 14 guage power wire to the regulated Garmin Pitot/AOA that I can't use a crimp connector, I need to use something that is easily removable through the access hole.

I thought about using PIDG connectors but the males are impossible to find.

What's a good connector for long power runs like this?

Thanks for any advice!
 
Another happy knife connector user here

You need to use heat shrink to insulate it-----I would extend the heat shrink onto the wire a bit also for support.
 
Yea, easily removable with one hand even due to not being able to get two hands into the access panel.

I looked at the knife connectors but they need heatshrink which wouldn't work.

A service loop would probably help if the wire could be pulled out.

Thanks for the replies :D
 
Mouser and Digi-Key have blue pidg spade male and females for this. It’s what I used. Can be easily crimped.
 
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors?gclid=CjwKCAiAi_D_BRApEiwASslbJ1QgqcdVFZQ6GAl7BHT7kCu--UTKe44x4PyqHfoYQsrezGoo7bYicRoCi1MQAvD_BwE

Fully insulated connector that pulls apart with not a lot of force. Connectors are genderless. You don't have to use the special crimper, especially on the lower power connector inserts. Lots of videos on these such as:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34kKlRQPOL8

Anderson's! We used these in RC Helis .. briefly .. couldn't handle the LIPO amps but should be perfect for this .. totally forgot about them :D
 
Anderson power poles may have trouble in the wing environment they may require periodic rework to maintain reliability. Corrosion and low clamping forces make them poor for a long term semi-permanent connection.
 
I was just in that panel to run AOA tubing to my heated Dynon pitot. I had to drop the pitot out of the mast to accomplish that. The A&P that installed it didn't leave much of a service loop but I note that all the wiring connections were spade connectors, so I could unplug it.
 
Is 14awg large enough? The Garmin manual shows that the GAP 26 can pull 12 amps. The wire chart in 43.13 shows that 12awg would be needed.
 
Is 14awg large enough? The Garmin manual shows that the GAP 26 can pull 12 amps. The wire chart in 43.13 shows that 12awg would be needed.

They have two 18's coming out of the regulator to connect power .. easy enough to run 12 (thanks)
 
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Anderson Experience

Anderson power poles may have trouble in the wing environment they may require periodic rework to maintain reliability. Corrosion and low clamping forces make them poor for a long term semi-permanent connection.

I have them in my panel in two places - several years now. No issues seen. Could be that the vibration of a plane is actually good for them.
 
Michael, Thanks for that wire size reminder. For some reason I thought I used AWG 14 for my pitot heat but I went back and looked it up and I did indeed use AWG 12.

If you want to use PIDG crimp terminals you will be moving to the yellow terminals. There don't seem to be as many of options around. Mouser does have them though.

TE PN: 66025-6 Male Faston

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/66025-6/?qs=wzaaGoaXkNj1NO7Yh7w25g%3D%3D


TE PAN: 640907-1 Female Faston (Stein has these I just bought some)


https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/640907-1/?qs=S8p1RJ0N%252BaNUwsvtKw1HWw%3D%3D


I just had to order a new crimper since my red/blue crimper won't work on these larger crimp terminals.
 
Anderson

Maybe you are right about the vibration helping can’t say. I used them often in my ham gear. The roll pin to tie pairs together is pretty handy.
 
Deutsch DT series. Good to 13 amps. Spring-loaded lock. One hand release. No special tools or extractors. Environmentally sealed. If you need higher amperage then Deutsch DTP series are good to 25 amps.

deutsch-DT-assembly-1.png
 
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Also, if you are worried about heat shrinking the connection which makes it hard to disconnect, then just use the shrink tube over the connector and tie wrap each side without shrinking the tube. The tie wraps clamp down and the heat shrink provides an envelope that resists tension and shear while insulating the splice. Then when you need to disconnect you cut the tie wraps (which might be a two handed affair again).
 
Another vote for Anderson Power Poles. I used them to connect the power wires to my heated pitot in my left wing. There are retention clips which I used to keep them from coming apart accidentally. I have also used them in a remote observatory environment for 5+ years exposed to weather (when the roof is open for astrophotography) without any noticeable corrosion or degradation of performance.
 
Anderson - like Molex - a "brand" not a spec.

Anderson's! We used these in RC Helis .. briefly .. couldn't handle the LIPO amps but should be perfect for this .. totally forgot about them :D

They make many different amp ratings. I use them for shore power on my 7. My neighbor uses many of these in his bass boats, and the black and red sides can be connected with a wedge connection. He cleans with alcohol and glues them together with a touch of super glue!! This makes a good connector.

Using a zip tie with a loop might help the install to keep the wires tidy and connected.
 
Is 14awg large enough? The Garmin manual shows that the GAP 26 can pull 12 amps. The wire chart in 43.13 shows that 12awg would be needed.

Yes, I did. The GAP26 may pull 12 amps, but not for long. And that is at -20F for a few min until it warms, which it does rapidly.
 
On the DT connectors the spec is for 14-20Ga connectors. I was tempted to use those for wing plugs but wasn't sure how to terminate 22g wires for the servo and CAN bus wiring.
 
Yes, I did. The GAP26 may pull 12 amps, but not for long. And that is at -20F for a few min until it warms, which it does rapidly.

You're probably right. I ran 14awg from the my GAP 26 (unregulated) to the wing root. But when I started doing the fuselage wiring I chickened out and ran 12awg from the panel to the wing root. I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.
 
On the DT connectors the spec is for 14-20Ga connectors. I was tempted to use those for wing plugs but wasn't sure how to terminate 22g wires for the servo and CAN bus wiring.

I'm running a 2 pin Deutsch DT connector for the heated pitot, a 6 pin Deutsch DTM for the lights and a Dsub connector for the GSA 28 roll servo.
 
Sounds good. My 14A uses the big square Molex plugs. They work pretty well; two per side. I ran out on the left side where my OAT is so it just runs without a separate connector to the fuse. I'll chop and connector it if I ever pull the wing off. Really can't imagine it.

On the 8 I'm wanting connectors so that the wing is closed up and ready to go. But then again I think I can run all the wires I want in the wing whenever I want even if closed up. So I might just wait and pull the wires out to the wing root later, mount the wings, then pull the wires into the fuse from the wing and skip the hassle of a wing root connector. The extra wire can live in the access bays of the wing until it is mounted.
 
On the DT connectors the spec is for 14-20Ga connectors. I was tempted to use those for wing plugs but wasn't sure how to terminate 22g wires for the servo and CAN bus wiring.

On the smaller gauge wires you strip twice the needed length and then double them over making the bare stripped portion thicker and fit them into a 18 or 20 gauge pin or socket. On the crimper set the dial to match the lager crimp end thickness, not the wire gauge so as not to over-stress the dies).

You could also use Deutsch DTM, not DT. The added "M" in the product name stands for "miniature" and they are designed for the smaller wire gauges. I actually use DTMs 10 times more often than DTs.

On some of the Garmin USB dongles they use 26 gauge fine stranded wires and I always strip extra length and double those over so they work with the specified pins or sockets. I see many folks that solder those pins due to the small size of the wire. It's better to do it as I describe with the folded over stripped wire and mechanical crimp.
 
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Thanks for the DTM pointer. I could easily have two connectors per wing, one DT and one DTM. The DT could handle lights, pitot, etc.
 
My preference is no connectors, can't have a problem with them if there not there :D.
Chances are pretty good you'll never remove the wings.
 
Deutsch are great.

Deutsch DT series. Good to 13 amps. Spring-loaded lock. One hand release. No special tools or extractors. Environmentally sealed. If you need higher amperage then Deutsch DTP series are good to 25 amps.

deutsch-DT-assembly-1.png

Exactly what I used. However I used a three pin connector so I can install the sensing wire as well. The pins will allow for a range from 14 to 20 gauge
 
My preference is no connectors, can't have a problem with them if there not there :D.
Chances are pretty good you'll never remove the wings.

+1

Same here. I just soldered them together, heat shrinked (style with adhesive to keep moisture out) and used cable ties to hold all the joints from flexing. Seems there is more risk than benefits to connectors in that environment.
 
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