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Matco wheels and brakes

I'm very happy with my Matco setup. The only downside was extra work on the wheelpants bracket (has to be modified). But you get two pistons instead of the one on the stock brakes. Also recommend the TS Flightline brake lines which allow the caliper to float better than stock lines.
 
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I couldn't be happier with my Matco setup...

The brakes are wonderful.

The customer service has been outstanding.

The price is reasonable.

The only change I am making on my -10 is to have Anti Splat install the bearing mod in all the wheels. My nose gear is complete and the mains will be done at the condition inspection. Highly recommend the Matco setup.
 
Thanks all for the response.

I’m going through the RV-10 finish kit parts list to delete all the stuff I don’s want. I’ll add the standard brake and wheel assembly to the list (that is getting long):
- No cowl - will be using the new James RV-10 cowl (used the old version on my first RV-10)
- No spinner - will use a 14” spinner to go with the James cowl
- No wheel pants - will be using the James wheel pants like I did on my first RV-10, a lot less clunky.
- No safety latch - will use the Plane Around cam latch.
- No inner tubes - will replace with 90 degree stem tubes

Carl
 
Thanks all for the response.

I’m going through the RV-10 finish kit parts list to delete all the stuff I don’s want. I’ll add the standard brake and wheel assembly to the list (that is getting long):
- No cowl - will be using the new James RV-10 cowl (used the old version on my first RV-10)
- No spinner - will use a 14” spinner to go with the James cowl
- No wheel pants - will be using the James wheel pants like I did on my first RV-10, a lot less clunky.
- No safety latch - will use the Plane Around cam latch.
- No inner tubes - will replace with 90 degree stem tubes

Carl

Just as an FYI Van’s won’t let you remove the safety latch.
At least they didn’t when I asked to remove it.
 
I'm very happy with my Matco setup. The only downside was extra work on the wheelpants bracket (has to be modified). But you get two pistons instead of the one on the stock brakes. Also recommend the TS Flightline brake lines which allow the caliper to float better than stock lines.

The Matco WI600 series of brake calipers have triple pistons.

When discussing the movement of the brake caliper, "float", there's a tremendous amount of force being exerted by the calipers when being applied, so much that the flexibility of the brake line is fairly insignificant and irrelevant in opposing caliper movement. If the brake line were inflexible, the caliper would simply bend or shear the line.

Properly installed hard lines per the KAI is sufficient and well designed with relief for the brake caliper movement.
 
Thanks all for the response.

I’m going through the RV-10 finish kit parts list to delete all the stuff I don’s want. I’ll add the standard brake and wheel assembly to the list (that is getting long):
- No cowl - will be using the new James RV-10 cowl (used the old version on my first RV-10)
- No spinner - will use a 14” spinner to go with the James cowl
- No wheel pants - will be using the James wheel pants like I did on my first RV-10, a lot less clunky.
- No safety latch - will use the Plane Around cam latch.
- No inner tubes - will replace with 90 degree stem tubes

Carl


I'm at the same point--trying to get my exclusion list together to place the finish kit order. Since you've used the James wheel pants before, what do you need to exclude? Do you need the other parts of the Van's fairing kit other than the fiberglass, or do the James pants come with attach hardware?

What did you like about them--ease of installation? Noticeable improvement in performance?

Do you know what needs to be retained in the Van's kit for the Matco wheels/brakes? I'm planning on going with their 3-piston brakes/wheels.
 
Dave,

On your questions:
- The James wheel pants come with only the fiberglass pant. On the first RV-10 I used the kit provided mounting brackets and hardware - so only deleted the pants themselves.
- These pants added work, but not much once you figure it out. Essential the stock pant brackets needed to be bent slightly to conform, and I added some glass on the inside were the bracket attaches to the pant. I used aftermarket intersection fairings as at that time the Van’s kit fairing where horrible. I understand they are much better now so will just go this the kit parts.
- Comparing my cruise and top end speed, I believe I enjoyed a significant improvement over the stock configuration. Note, the wheel pants where most likely not the biggest contribution factor (I had the associated James Cowl and Plenum as well). The new owner of my RV-10 has for several years now sent me notes on what RV he “spanked” of late.

My current list of stuff to delete for to use the Matco wheels and brakes include:
- U NW501.25 Nose Wheel W/Bearing. I’ll use the Matco NW511.25 nose wheel.
- U-00011 Grove WHE&BRK 6x6.0. I’ll use (2) Matco WHLW1600xLT-2
- I’ll add the Matco RV-10 nose wheel axle.

Carl
 
My current list of stuff to delete for to use the Matco wheels and brakes include:
- U NW501.25 Nose Wheel W/Bearing. I’ll use the Matco NW511.25 nose wheel.
- U-00011 Grove WHE&BRK 6x6.0. I’ll use (2) Matco WHLW1600xLT-2
- I’ll add the Matco RV-10 nose wheel axle.

Carl

Thanks, Carl, I appreciate your help!
 
One more question, Carl:

When using the planearound latch kit and angled latch pins and pin guides (which I have already), I'm assuming you delete the latch pins, but not the rack and pinion parts, from the Van's kit?
 
One more question, Carl:

When using the planearound latch kit and angled latch pins and pin guides (which I have already), I'm assuming you delete the latch pins, but not the rack and pinion parts, from the Van's kit?

I did not delete any parts. Just added the Plane Around latch.

Carl
 
Brad,

I know all the stories from ~10 years ago about people having cooling issues when using the RV-10 James Cowl and plenum. All this happened right before I finished the RV-10. As a precaution I added these louvers on the bottom of the cowl.
3-CD7587-D-A219-467-D-9-D82-970018-DF9-AAA.jpg


I can report that the only real cooling issue I had was on the first couple of flights - and that was my mistake. I should have not installed the dams in front cylinders #1 and #2. This RV-10 now has over 1000 hours and is a joy to fly.

Note - there is no free lunch. The reduction of cooling drag with this setup is the gain. If you want to install a fire breathing “Time to Climb” engine and fly it that way, then you will have cooling issues (most likely independent of what cowl you use).

I can also report that Jimmy at James Cowl has completed a new RV-10 cowl that is set up for the IO-540 with the Cold Air Sump. This is what I’ll use. The new engine will arrive from Thunderbolt around September.

Carl
 
Prices

I was also looking at the Matco wheels and brakes as I sort through the options I need to decide on.

The Matco wheels and brakes list for $610 (each it appears or $1220/pair).

The Vans U-00011 Grove wheels and brakes list for $1220 (that appears to be a pair).

That appears to be a wash price-wise. Is that right or am I missing something?
 
I suspect you are missing the point that Van’s will credit you the “kit discounted price” for the parts you delete, not the stand alone price they sell the parts for.

Carl
 
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