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Show us your RV-14 panel

Actually I was thinking, "What is the horn for?" Scare the deer off the runway?

That is exactly correct. Deer/cows/various wildlife, etc. Other uses:

- Prop clear signal from inside the bubble.
- Clear the ground squirrels from the taxiway.
- Letting the FBO know to get off their butts.
- Being a general nuisance.
 
That is exactly correct. Deer/cows/various wildlife, etc. Other uses:

- Prop clear signal from inside the bubble.
- Clear the ground squirrels from the taxiway.
- Letting the FBO know to get off their butts.
- Being a general nuisance.

One other use case for a horn (or some sort of loud noisemaker) is if you had to make a dead stick landing on a beach, golf course, road, soccer field, etc where there are people around. Gliding airplane makes almost zero noise, would be nice to have a way to give everyone a heads up that you're coming in (and can't go around!).
 
One other use case for a horn (or some sort of loud noisemaker) is if you had to make a dead stick landing on a beach, golf course, road, soccer field, etc where there are people around. Gliding airplane makes almost zero noise, would be nice to have a way to give everyone a heads up that you're coming in (and can't go around!).

Yep. Now that is an EXCELLENT point I never even thought of. Because of course in my mind I'm gliding in, hand waving furiously yelling, 'MOVE OUT OF THE WAY!!!!!' all the while not thinking of honking the horn.

I'm updating my emergency landing check list.

Horn...... HONK FURIOUSLY
 
Well... this is about as close to done right now as I'm getting to get so that I can get her flying! All Garmin and FlyEFII.

What’s the flyEFII controller used for in a practical sense? I take it since it way over on the right it’s not something that gets tweaked or adjusted throughout a flight?
 
What’s the flyEFII controller used for in a practical sense? I take it since it way over on the right it’s not something that gets tweaked or adjusted throughout a flight?

For regular flight checks its used to confirm various ECU and fuel pump pre flight checks (one ECU off, other one runs, etc).

Its a back up source to show both my battery voltages as well as a back up MAP and fuel flow meter. It also shows throttle position, injector duty cycles, engine temp (at least through the probe mounted in the #3 primer port). It has an SD card slot for recording all the engine data as well.

Most importantly though has a knob that allows you to trim your fuel and also the menus to change your injector and ignition timing, fuel map, etc etc.
 
N214RV Panel

N214RV has nearly completed Phase 1 testing. Scheduled to go to paint next week. Some things we changed: canopy release moved to far left and grab handle positioned at top of the center panel; 7" GDU 470 on passenger side to accommodate glove box storage; SDS ignition controller at bottom of center panel; com2 and transponder are remote; AoA remote indicator on glare shield. Interior carpets and side panels to be installed after paint.
 

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N214RV has nearly completed Phase 1 testing. Scheduled to go to paint next week. Some things we changed: canopy release moved to far left and grab handle positioned at top of the center panel; 7" GDU 470 on passenger side to accommodate glove box storage; SDS ignition controller at bottom of center panel; com2 and transponder are remote; AoA remote indicator on glare shield. Interior carpets and side panels to be installed after paint.

Your panel looks great! I am planning SDS as well and was wondering where your other fuel pump switch is located? Also, where did you get your cabin heat knobs labeled?

Thanks
Jim
 
If you plan on using the AP frequently, I’d keep it in the bottom of the middle stack. Mine is there (on my 14 - 350 hours so far) and I put it there when I redid my 7 (put about 200 hours on the new panel before selling it). Panels are to some degree very mission specific, but if you do much XCountry you’ll likely find it very convenient to let the auto-pilot fly in “heading” mode a good amount of time. Having the AP just above the throttle allows for quick and easy adjustments to heading or altitude settings (knobs) without moving your hand very far - especially if your also managing the throttle.

I’ also suggest remoting the audio panel. The interface on the G3X is great - it’s fast and easy to use and offers even more functionality than the physical audio head.

Couple other things:
Where do you plan on mounting your iPhone and/or iPad? If you use ForeFlight or garmin pilot you’ll want these devices handy and visible. There are a number of good mounts out there.
Don’t forget to have usb power ports nearby as well.

Good luck.
 
Canopy release handle

N214RV has nearly completed Phase 1 testing. Scheduled to go to paint next week. Some things we changed: canopy release moved to far left and grab handle positioned at top of the center panel;

Is that canopy release handle the one from the OP-63 Remote Canopy Release Kit that Vans offers? Their drawings show the handle secured with thin copper wire that can be easily broken if you need to pull it. Your handle looks like it might have a button in the center that needs to be pressed in order to pull it?

Thanks,
 
Another Panel ?

Yes. I decided against an alternator switch. Instead, using a circuit breaker. One for each alternator. Also, no avionics switch. This meant designing a new panel.

Try this out:

Panel v3.0.jpg
 
Panel v3.1

OK. This is IT!

Panel has minimal switches, no idiot lights (cuz PFD/MFD have these), two CBs for alternators, none for Pmags (these have switches).

Idea is to have only things needed for flight in front of pilot.

Moved the ELT to the far starboard side, CBs and pitot heat to the co-pilot side. Also, keeping the master, Pmag switches and starter button far to port away from the stick when it is moved far forward. Also moved the light switches further starboard away from stick.

I flew with a buddy yesterday in his -14 and moved all the switches away from in front of the stick. No room for a small EFIS next to the PFD, but could mount one to starboard of the MFD. No plans for this, though.

Please chime in if there is something obviously missing. Could be. This is only my eleventyseventh try at this. Hardest part of the build, to date. Haven't attempted canopy, yet, so......

Panel v 3.1.jpg
 
GRVDD Panel

A view of the panel of GRVDD RV 14 now flying
 

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OK. This is IT!

Panel has minimal switches, no idiot lights (cuz PFD/MFD have these), two CBs for alternators, none for Pmags (these have switches).

Idea is to have only things needed for flight in front of pilot.

Moved the ELT to the far starboard side, CBs and pitot heat to the co-pilot side. Also, keeping the master, Pmag switches and starter button far to port away from the stick when it is moved far forward. Also moved the light switches further starboard away from stick.

I flew with a buddy yesterday in his -14 and moved all the switches away from in front of the stick. No room for a small EFIS next to the PFD, but could mount one to starboard of the MFD. No plans for this, though.

Please chime in if there is something obviously missing. Could be. This is only my eleventyseventh try at this. Hardest part of the build, to date. Haven't attempted canopy, yet, so......

View attachment 34726

There doesn't appear to be a switch for wig-wag lighting, is that because you don't want it? I think it is worth considering for added safety and collision avoidance and the cost for the module is less than $100.
 
There doesn't appear to be a switch for wig-wag lighting, is that because you don't want it? I think it is worth considering for added safety and collision avoidance and the cost for the module is less than $100.

I think the Dynon PFD can be programmed for wigwag. I will check. That is a great feature.
 
Show us your RV-14 Panel

Mike,

Any problem with your sticks hitting those toggle switches?

Fred

No Fred, a couple had to be adjusted at the rear to ensure no contact, also had to remove some of the stem on the three dimmer switches. The additional
flap panel switch also had to be adjusted. All those in the vicinity of the stick envelope prior to the above adjustment just contacted the stick at the forward edge of full left and right, however even with impediment the stick could still be moved throughout the full range to the control stops. None was apparent after adjustment. Also checked on independent inspection.
Mike
 
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Just a thought. I have about 50 hours on my new panel and I’ve learned a couple things…

Consider swapping the Knob Panel and The AP Panel (nice thing is these are super easy to swap back and forth). I use the Knob Panel all the time so I think having it on top gives you a little better access. Also, oddly enough, the proximity between the big knobs on the Knob Panel and the Comm Panel, at least for my ham-hands, is sometimes a challenge. Spacing the two a bit would make them easier to grab.

I do get the logic of your flow though. Love how clean the panel is. Are you using an ACM?
 
Here is my panel built around the same principles
I've also found the knob panel and AP panel very useful therefore placed them right in front of my right hand
 

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Here is my panel built around the same principles
I've also found the knob panel and AP panel very useful therefore placed them right in front of my right hand

I’m curious how you modified the sub-panel structure to accommodate the right screen?? I’m not sure how far back the Dynon screen protrudes back, but I’d think you had to carve out at least a couple of inches of that center/right rib.
 
The cutout is not even 1 inch deep, have a look at the photo and the HDX dimensions
 

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The cutout is not even 1 inch deep, have a look at the photo and the HDX dimensions

From your picture it looks like the back of the HDX is sitting right up against that center right rib….which doesn’t look modified. I guess I’m still having a little bit of a hard time visualizing how that’s possible without your EFIS sitting proud on the face of the panel?? If what you’re saying is that you did have to do a 1” modification, than that makes sense. If that’s the case, did you have to strengthen that rib any?…..or is everything still sturdy?
 
I riveted a small angle to strengthen the modified sub-panel rib.
The whole structure is very rigid and after +100 hours of flight I haven't found it to be a problem.
 
'Final' Panel v3.0

After many sleepless nights over-thinking this panel layout, I have settled (tentatively) on this one.

Changes:

1. ACS-type ignition switch- Benefits include a key (minimum security, but some), familiarity, mags and starter in one switch, low profile

2. Two buttons for testing Pmags instead of Honeywells I was using

3. Two USBs for installing software updates added to front of panel. Two USBs still reside under the panel, but are used for wifi adapters.

4. Moved ELT module to co-pilot side.

5. These changes make it possible to add a small GPS navigator to either side of panel next to EFISs.

Panel lighting (red and white LED strips) are controlled by dimmers mounted under the panel within reach of pilot. Seat heater switches are probably going between the seats somewhere. Haven't thought that through, yet.


Panel Design v3.0.jpg
 
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Most of the Red X's have been resolved, just a week or two from powering up the center stack. It's getting exciting.
 

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v 3.2

The latest iteration. Getting closer. All I need is the ACS ignition switch. Backordered from Spruce, supposed to be available 12-27.

I decided to move the USB on the pilot side of the panel closer to the center because it was a bit of a reach for the 12" cable. A 24" version is available, but that adds a lot more cable than needed increasing weight! ;)

Panel v3.2.jpg
 
So far I've enjoyed the panel

EFII to date has worked flawlessly.
 

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'Final' Panel v3.3

Here's what I think will be the final panel, unless something fatal is missing.

Panel lights dimmers, WiFi and stall horn are all underneath shown by the arrows.

I decided to move the USBs for EFIS input to the far starboard side next to the ELT. This cleaned up some of the area under the PFD and MFD in case future switches or breakers are needed.

I also moved the Master switch down and put the ignition next to it with the Pmag test buttons below. This freed up a bit more space above in case an IFR GPS instrument is desired.

Panel Final 1-29-23.jpg
 
Here's what I think will be the final panel, unless something fatal is missing.

Panel lights dimmers, WiFi and stall horn are all underneath shown by the arrows.

I decided to move the USBs for EFIS input to the far starboard side next to the ELT. This cleaned up some of the area under the PFD and MFD in case future switches or breakers are needed.

I also moved the Master switch down and put the ignition next to it with the Pmag test buttons below. This freed up a bit more space above in case an IFR GPS instrument is desired.

View attachment 37583

I like how you planned for enhanced access to your switches. Great idea!
 
Draft BLW -14 panel

Here is my draft panel in DIY ACAD.
Thoughts/comments?

- Autopilot disconnect & trims on stick.
- matching controls on right stick.
- P-mag breakers on console breaker panel.
- Using backup alt/gen, no backup battery.

Thanks.
 

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Updated

IMG_3397.jpg

This is the result of significant additions to a nice VFR panel. Now it just amazes me every time I fly! What a wonderful plane!

Bill
 
Switches All Wired

That is unless I need switches for my alternators. I'm not sure why I would, but that's why I have a thread started over in 'Electrical'.

Panel Final 8-19-23.jpg
 
Tell me your interests

That is a very clean layout. Can you talk a little bit about how you have the light switches set up?

The panel was built and expanded by the fine folks at Advanced Flight Systems. I’ve built and wired two planes (Glasair and Bearhawk) but I didn’t build this -14. The lights are pretty simple: Strobes are just that. NAV selects Nav and strobes. Pulse is the Wig Wags. Landing selects steady state landing and taxi lights.
I’ll confess that I didn’t configure any of those choices. That was all 'baked into' the Advanced panel. It sure is nice!

Any other questions?

Bill
 
Forgive my ignorance - future RV-14 builder and I can't help but notice...is no one installing nav radios these days?

[ed. Lots of them are remotely mounted now and are accessed through the EFIS (PFD). v/r,dr]
 
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Forgive my ignorance - future RV-14 builder and I can't help but notice...is no one installing nav radios these days?

[ed. Lots of them are remotely mounted now and are accessed through the EFIS (PFD). v/r,dr]

Many/most of the gps navigators are nav/comms, e.g., Garmin 650/750. As DR said, there may also be comm radios installed remotely due to limited panel space.
 
Forgive my ignorance - future RV-14 builder and I can't help but notice...is no one installing nav radios these days?

[ed. Lots of them are remotely mounted now and are accessed through the EFIS (PFD). v/r,dr]

I’m not…. Gnx375, no vor/loc/ils. All the gps approaches you could wish for, and where I fly here in the Northeast that’s basically everywhere I would ever consider flying an approach into and more vors are bring decommissioned by the year. Not starting a debate but for my mission it works perfectly and simplifies antennas, wiring, cost.
 
Forgive my ignorance - future RV-14 builder and I can't help but notice...is no one installing nav radios these days?

[ed. Lots of them are remotely mounted now and are accessed through the EFIS (PFD). v/r,dr]

I am. I’ll be installing the GNC 255 Nav/Comm along with the GPS 175 and the GTR 20 for my second comm. The 255/175 combo will basically give me the same features as a 650. These days, I don’t think a Nav radio is really “needed”, but I guess it’s always nice to have as many tools in the toolbox as possible. The main reason I’m installing the 255 in my -14 is that I’m planning on doing my instrument training in this airplane. I’ve read discussions regarding the “need” for a Nav radio as part of instrument training and testing, and opinions are as diverse as the primer wars. So, in the end, I decided to go ahead and install the 255. I also got a really good deal on a new, in the box, never installed unit. I had room in the panel and needed a second Comm anyway, so for me, this was a fairly easy decision to make and direction to go in.
 
Hi all,
I thought I might share my progress on the RV-14 panel. I have fabricated some backlit "sub-panels" and I am very excited with the results! It's all homemade, using laser engraver paint, acrylic, and flexible LED strings.


showmy.php



showmy.php



showmy.php
 
I am. I’ll be installing the GNC 255 Nav/Comm along with the GPS 175 and the GTR 20 for my second comm. The 255/175 combo will basically give me the same features as a 650. These days, I don’t think a Nav radio is really “needed”, but I guess it’s always nice to have as many tools in the toolbox as possible. The main reason I’m installing the 255 in my -14 is that I’m planning on doing my instrument training in this airplane. I’ve read discussions regarding the “need” for a Nav radio as part of instrument training and testing, and opinions are as diverse as the primer wars. So, in the end, I decided to go ahead and install the 255. I also got a really good deal on a new, in the box, never installed unit. I had room in the panel and needed a second Comm anyway, so for me, this was a fairly easy decision to make and direction to go in.

Where are you mounting the antenna?
 
Where are you mounting the antenna?

If you have fiberglass wingtips, you can mount the Archer antenna in one of wingtips. I’m going with the new carbon fiber wingtips, so that’s not an option for me, so I’m planning on mounting a “whiskers” antenna under the very rear/bottom of the fuselage….almost under the horizontal stabilizer. You can also mount the whiskers up top on the vertical stabilizer, but my -14 is a taildragger, and the whiskers would be just about eye level, so I don’t want to take the chance of possibly getting an eye injury, so I’ll be mounting it down low.
 
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