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Panel upgrade Help/Suggestions

J_SKI

Member
Hello all!

I am acquiring a new to me Mustang II and looking to make it IFR and update the panel and am looking for thoughts, suggestions, or advice.

Currently installed on the panel: (see pictures)
-Dynon FlightDEK-D180
-Garmin 296
-Comm Radio
-Mode C transponder
-Steam Gauge Airspeed, Altimeter, Turn Gauge, VSI, RPM

I have ordered an HS34 for the D180 (essentially replaces the need for a CDI/HSI and allows VHF/GPS Nav to run through the D-180 screen)

My initial thought is to purchase and install:
-uAvionix echoUAT/GRT Safe-fly GPS Package to pair with Mode C transponder
-N16 VHF NAV Radio Package (Razor control head) with Bob Archer Wing antenna
-Garmin 175 GPS (replace 296)

Open to suggestions or thoughts relating to my current plan!!! I have talked to other owners who have very similar setups and they have gotten everything to work together and also have an autopilot installed that will fly ILS and LPV approaches down to mins with this same setup or very similar.

I believe this would be the simplest and most cost-effective way to become IFR with a little redundancy.

Thanks in advance
 

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I almost went with a GPS 175, a GDL 50R and a used 330 ES for my panel upgrade. I had even bought the 175 and 50R before I finally realized the GNX 375 doing all that in one slot was worth the minor net cost increase. I was having a hard time fitting the 50R somewhere, which sort of pushed me to consolidate boxes. Luckily Sarasota allowed me to return the 175 and 50R and upgrade to the 375.

I pulled out and sold my EchoUAT and SkyFYX

YMMV, but I think you will eventually want/need a new transponder, so might as well do that now.
 
My two cents.
I’ll echo the previous poster: your transponder looks old. Is it a cavity tube? Require maintenance regularly? For $400 there are good used Garmin 327 mode C transponders available. Or, Trig TT22 (the Dynon transponder is a re-packaged TT22) mode S-ES for about $2K can be driven by the 175 gps to give you ADSB out, and you can delete the UAT stuff you mentioned.
Many suggest looking at the entire panel, as a whole, rather than piecemeal. Do you want ADSB-in? How will you display traffic? IPad, fed via wifi from an adsb-in box with wifi saves panel space, but is not as optimum as being on the panel. Are you happy flying ifr with (I assume) only one electrical power source, so a shorted buss bar leaves you blind? Backup power is not legally required, but I personally wouldn’t fly in imc without something (back up battery, second independent electric power source, etc.). Again, depending on your comfort level, you could delete your vhf nav radio. I think you’ll find you use it rarely. But it is another backup. Of course only you know your risk tolerance, it’s your call. It’s easy for other people to spend your money!
 
Jacob, I believe you should call Steinair, Inc., Faribault, MN and see what he thinks. They will help you. 651-460-6955
 
Looks like your D-180 is on wrong side of your panel (heehee)

IF you want to stay with "legacy" Dynon you should look to add an AP74 and two servos. That will give you a fairly capable 2 axis autopilot at a good price. That's the setup I'm using, but with the D-100 which is the same except for engine monitoring.
 
HS34

HS34's no longer show on the Dynon website. Also I find no reference to using the AP74 with D100??????
Used HS34's are getting hard to find. Likewise used servos at a decent price.
 
AP74 works with the D-100 and D-180, just as the HS34 does

The servos are the same SV32 (from memory) as current SkyView servos. I've been watching that as part of my evenutal replacement of the D-100.

Note to OP: Neither of the knob sets (HS34 or AP74) work with Skyview, so while convenient in your D-180 setup, they are throw away in an upgrade.
 
I almost went with a GPS 175, a GDL 50R and a used 330 ES for my panel upgrade. I had even bought the 175 and 50R before I finally realized the GNX 375 doing all that in one slot was worth the minor net cost increase. I was having a hard time fitting the 50R somewhere, which sort of pushed me to consolidate boxes. Luckily Sarasota allowed me to return the 175 and 50R and upgrade to the 375.

I pulled out and sold my EchoUAT and SkyFYX

YMMV, but I think you will eventually want/need a new transponder, so might as well do that now.

This is a good point!!!!
Especially given the age of the transponder might as well kill two birds with one stone and gain some panel space. Thanks for the suggestion
 
I almost went with a GPS 175, a GDL 50R and a used 330 ES for my panel upgrade. I had even bought the 175 and 50R before I finally realized the GNX 375 doing all that in one slot was worth the minor net cost increase. I was having a hard time fitting the 50R somewhere, which sort of pushed me to consolidate boxes. Luckily Sarasota allowed me to return the 175 and 50R and upgrade to the 375.

I pulled out and sold my EchoUAT and SkyFYX

YMMV, but I think you will eventually want/need a new transponder, so might as well do that now.

My two cents.
I’ll echo the previous poster: your transponder looks old. Is it a cavity tube? Require maintenance regularly? For $400 there are good used Garmin 327 mode C transponders available. Or, Trig TT22 (the Dynon transponder is a re-packaged TT22) mode S-ES for about $2K can be driven by the 175 gps to give you ADSB out, and you can delete the UAT stuff you mentioned.
Many suggest looking at the entire panel, as a whole, rather than piecemeal. Do you want ADSB-in? How will you display traffic? IPad, fed via wifi from an adsb-in box with wifi saves panel space, but is not as optimum as being on the panel. Are you happy flying ifr with (I assume) only one electrical power source, so a shorted buss bar leaves you blind? Backup power is not legally required, but I personally wouldn’t fly in imc without something (back up battery, second independent electric power source, etc.). Again, depending on your comfort level, you could delete your vhf nav radio. I think you’ll find you use it rarely. But it is another backup. Of course only you know your risk tolerance, it’s your call. It’s easy for other people to spend your money!

I do want ADSB in and I was planning on running it through my iPad as I plan on having it Bluetooth to my headset for aural alerts.

I will have to look into a backup power source and I do have 4 backup steam gauges, but having a backup battery for the D180 would definitely line up with my risk tolerance.

I think initially (and what I believe you are alluding to), it might be best to go with a GPS nav source for future-proofing and if I find myself wanting an ILS later on down the road add that after the fact... I guess I am old school and have a sentimental attachment to green needles and ILS approaches 😂

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, I do appreciate it!
 
I will look into Steinair, I have heard of them mentioned on this forum before and I am new to the building/experimental world so it never hurts to ask for expert guidance, thanks!
 
Looks like your D-180 is on wrong side of your panel (heehee)

IF you want to stay with "legacy" Dynon you should look to add an AP74 and two servos. That will give you a fairly capable 2 axis autopilot at a good price. That's the setup I'm using, but with the D-100 which is the same except for engine monitoring.

Right?! I guess the previous owner liked to fly from the right seat?!? 😂

I definitely have an AP on the long term wish list, I was initally leaning towards TruTrak which is no Xcruze as I have talked to others with my set up and they were able to make a 175 GPS, Dynon 180, and Trutrak all play nice together and shoot coupled LPV approaches.

I have heard that the AP74 will not shoot coupled (the vertical part) of approaches....
 
HS34's no longer show on the Dynon website. Also I find no reference to using the AP74 with D100??????
Used HS34's are getting hard to find. Likewise used servos at a decent price.

I searched high and low to find an HS34 multiple forums and used avionics dealers. Eventually sourced one directly from Dynon and it was not cheap ($700) for a refurbished one.
 
I do want ADSB in and I was planning on running it through my iPad as I plan on having it Bluetooth to my headset for aural alerts.

I will have to look into a backup power source and I do have 4 backup steam gauges, but having a backup battery for the D180 would definitely line up with my risk tolerance.

I think initially (and what I believe you are alluding to), it might be best to go with a GPS nav source for future-proofing and if I find myself wanting an ILS later on down the road add that after the fact... I guess I am old school and have a sentimental attachment to green needles and ILS approaches 😂

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, I do appreciate it!

I noted that your back up ‘steam gauge’ TC for attitude is also electric, so I really do think the Dynon Li+ battery is important. I didn’t mean to recommend dropping the ILS, just that some others have. Having once experienced a gps jamming event during a gps approach, I do have an ILS on board, in a separate box. Finally, do not overlook Trio in your autopilot search. My opinion is that it is superior to the TruTrak, but does need more panel space.
 
I have heard that the AP74 will not shoot coupled (the vertical part) of approaches....

Correct on no vertical. I guess that's what I'm there for?

I have:
D-100, AP74, HS34
GNS430W
Garmin SL30

For approaches the "exta" step is I manuualy set the next altitude per the apprach plate.

Yes, there are more capable autopilots out there, but for two servos you get a lot of assistance from your existing PFD.

2 cents and YMMV
 
Correct on no vertical. I guess that's what I'm there for?

I have:
D-100, AP74, HS34
GNS430W
Garmin SL30

For approaches the "exta" step is I manuualy set the next altitude per the apprach plate.

Yes, there are more capable autopilots out there, but for two servos you get a lot of assistance from your existing PFD.

2 cents and YMMV


This seems like a good setup! Did you install all this yourself? do you have any photos or documentation of the wiring / install?

AP74 is specifically referring to the dedicated autopilot interface module yes? I have read online that you can just add 2 servos and use the D180 buttons as an autopilot control.

Do you have any experience with this setup? (no AP74) I am sure it is much easier with the interface module.... but if/when I add an autopilot I basically would be using it for cruise only, so like you said it might be a cheap way to get 95% of the functionality I would want.
 
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This seems like a good setup! Did you install all this yourself? do you have any photos or documentation of the wiring / install?

I did not do the install because I'm mechanically inept. I do have details of the wiring as provided by the shop. Those are over at the hangar but I can probably get them scanned and sent over.

AP74 is specifically referring to the dedicated autopilot interface module yes? I have read online that you can just add 2 servos and use the D180 buttons as an autopilot control.

This is correct. The control knobs are optional, and as I stated before are NOT compatible for a Skyview upgrade, but the servos are.

Do you have any experience with this setup? (no AP74) I am sure it is much easier with the interface module.... but if/when I add an autopilot I basically would be using it for cruise only, so like you said it might be a cheap way to get 95% of the functionality I would want.

I have had to use the regular control buttons on the D-100 and I didn't enjoy it. The AP74 was disconnected during IFR checks and didn't get plugged back in. I discovered it on Flt1, got busy and didn't investigate prior to Flt2, but took care of it after 2 flights without my precious knobs.
 
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