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Oooooh Yeah!!!!

jflyboy

Active Member
I bought my Rv-4 tail and wing kit:D Looked at the kit yesterday and decided to "take the plunge" so to speak. tail kit is complete, Most of the control surfaces are complete the wings are clecoed together. I am leaving this wednesday on a ski trip to MI so i will be picking the kits up near the end of the month. I wanted a side-by-side for the benefit of training others in the future but decided that the 4 will better meet my needs/wants;) When i get the kit i'll try to post some pics. pizza is here so i gotta go, Jay

P.S. any concerns about none anodized wing spars? maybe i should have asked before i bought but the argument i heard against the idea souded good what is the other side/opinion, thanks for any input
 
P.S. any concerns about none anodized wing spars?
There should be no concern about non-anodized spars, providing that they were properly cleaned and primered before riveting. There are thousands of non-anodized 3,4, and 6 spars out there flying around.
 
P.S. any concerns about none anodized wing spars? maybe i should have asked before i bought but the argument i heard against the idea sounded good what is the other side/opinion, thanks for any input
Back in the day, Van did not build the spar for you, nor was any part anodized, unless you took an option and had the spar built-up by a company called Phlogiston. It is not an option any more with the new RV7/8/9 kits. All spars come anodized and pre-assembled standard with the kit. You really have no choice. For 20 years anodized spars have been used and not been an issue. However this came up when Van started to offer this the Phlogiston spar option on the RV4 and RV6.

For the RV4 and RV6 I assume you still have the option to buy a pre-assembled anodized spar or a do it your self spar with bare?

If I had a choice of a pre-fabricated anodized spar or getting bare parts to rivet together, I would have to think about it. On one hand not having to trim straps, cut lightning holes, etch/alodine/prime all parts and drive the 3/16 rivets is nice but no big deal. On the other hand, I would rather have an etched/alodine/epoxy primed surface than just anodized, my preference. Anodized is NOT a problem, just my thinking, it is not really the ultimate corrosion protection treatment for this application. Anodizing is a surface finish that tends to be done to make a surface harder and more wear resistant or pretty.

(PS driving the big spar rivets is a easy with a big pneumatic squeezer and large "C" jaw. Beg or borrow one by all means. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes to squeeze all the spar rivets once you get going.)

There are things about anodized parts that make people concerned, mostly with out cause to be concerned. The thinking is a harder coating than the parent material is a crack starter? Well it's unlikely with the materials we have in the environment we fly in.

From a metallurgy stand point IF anodization is NOT done properly, it may cause the metal to be susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement. Baking eliminates the likely hood the anodizing process will leave behind chemicals that cause hydrogen embrittlement. I'm sure Van or the vendor is using the proper process. Hyd-embrittlement is a corrosion problem of greatest concern on machined blocks and forgings, where end grain is exposed, in a high stress and high hydrogen environment. Metal like wood has grain orientation. With sheet metal and bar, grain is not exposed. Also for hydrogen embrittlement to happen, an elevated hydrogen environment is needed. We don't operate in elevated hydrogen corrosive environment, like in some industrial applications. My point is anodizing the spar is not a typical application but it's not a problem. Why anodize? The normal corrosion resistant process (etch/alodine/prime) is good to excellent. Priming is good enough. Anodize does look pretty, but that's not really a factor with a spar is it?

The anodized surface is harder than bare or clad aluminum. (I think Van uses a "softer" chromate anodized process.) Is that harder anodized surface brittle and a crack starter? Well even if there where cracks in the anodized coating (there are lots of them), there is nothing that will telegraph that into the metal. The metal is taking the load not the anodized surface which has zero strength. Again sheet metal and bar does not have exposed end grain. However this is my argument to prime or that primer is a tad better than just anodizing in this application. Anodized surfaces can break down if flexed enough. It's just an oxide layer like rust on steel. Rust can flake off. Primer coatings have one job in life, that is to protect against corrosion. Primer is made to flex and stay on for life. Anodizing parts is usually done to make the part more durable to physical wear and tear from rubbing and for appearance. This is not an issue with the spar. Anodized is hands down better looking. I suspect anodizing is more automated than than the etch/alodine/prime method.

What is better, anodized only or prime only? Using a good process and good primer product, priming is better to me. I have no proof of that, just my opinion based on the ramblings above. It would be nice to hear RV owners with the early anodized pre-made phlogiston spars. Some are over 20 years old.


If Van offers the anodized pre-made spars only, be happy. If Van also offers a build your own spar with bare metal than you have to decide. If you are lazy than one option is easier. If anodizing bothers you, than the choice is made for you. When Van first offered the pre-fab anodized spar option, it was a few $100 extra. Money may be a small factor if there is a charge for it. Most RV'ers with new kits have no choice, it's standard. The big draw back (no proof just opinion) is the anodized surface is not as flexable as primer. Will this cause corrosion? May be in 100 years in a severe environment. Primer does not last forever either.
 
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thanks....

for the input, the spars in the kit i bought are the do-it-your-self type and are primered. The fellows work looks excellant (of course i have an untrained eye but.) i couldnt find any marks or even scratches on the parts he has finished. i, at this point dont have a choice as to whether or not to anodize or prime as he has already made the choice to prime. i appreciate ya'lls input. i'd assume that i should inventory everything after i get the kit and then walk myself through everything step-by-step that is allready completed so i can find out where to start, anyone care to mention what process they used when buying a partially completed kit?
 
Today i bought my avery tool kit from a fellow down in Alabama. He is going to ship it today or tommorow. yesterday i went to Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor frieght, and Sears, "shopping" for various other tools that were on my "needs" list. I got a delta belt sander, that is my favorite so far. Gotta loves tools. lol I will post pics once i have everything organized. Later jay
 
this can't be good!

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as you can see the primer is flakeing off as I dimple. Its okay on the ribs but it's flaking off the spar web. what do I do now? I am considering sanding the whole thing down and re-priming but ... :confused:
 
There are many ways of dealing with the problem ranging from extensive rework to minimal expenditure of time, trouble and expense. To my mind, the shortest easiest path is as follows: An alternative fix would be to ignore the flake job altogether and prep and prime the contact areas of the skin(s) before riveting into place. Doing so would meet a primary goal of avoiding metal to metal contact. A slightly better solution would be to invest a bit more time on it by lightly scuffing the spar flange surface (to promote adhesion) and then spray a coat of the same rattle can primer on the bare spots prior to installing the skin if that makes you feel better.
 
I hate to disagree with other posters but I say you should fix it right. Applying primer over that mess is a complete waste of time and money. Get some stripper and remove that junk. By the looks of it, it won't be too tough to get off. The whole problem began when the previous builder did a half-@$$ed job of prepping/priming the spar. Why lower your standards to his? You're building an airplane, not a birdhouse. You'll feel a lot better knowing it was done right.
 
ok i am not tryin to start a war but... What will work as a stripping agent to remove vari-prime, that won't harm the surface of the aluminum? I just want sumptin that will work. I was considering wet sanding but i don't want to scratch the aluminum any more than i have too. Is primer that flakes off this easily actually protecting my spar? or should I take the time to strip the whole thing and start over? Has anyone ever built one without priming anything? I am going to have a few local guys check it out before i go any further.
 
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