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Rudder Damage from Wind

Some wind got a hold of my rudder during the last front that came through. Overall it still appears straight, but I am a bit concerned about what to do with two small tears in the trailing edge. It doesn't look horrible, but I was wondering what more experienced folks think the best way to repair this is.

20191117_171400.jpg


(Its an RV6A, so it doesn't have the riveted in trailing edge wedge.)
 
rebuild

I hate to be "that guy", but a really bad outcome started with a post like this a couple of years ago. Check with the factory, but if it were me, I'd just rebuild it.
 
Jeremey, are the damaged spots on top of the rudder and right at the trim sheet cracks?
 
Build a new one.

This airplane is grounded!! Looking at the TE, it looks like a tear right in the zone where separations have occurred, this definitely needs a new rudder built, very serious.

Call Vans for just how far you go, then get transferred to "order" a new kit. Maybe they will say the spar a ribs are OK. Also check the VS for any damage on the front spar connection to the HS spar.
 
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F

Check your elevator for damage where it contacted the rudder TE. Agree with other posters, new skin at minimum.
 
Im having a hard time figuring out how the rudder got damaged along the trailing edge. I didnt think it was possible to contact the elevator at that point.

What else did it hit?
 
Im having a hard time figuring out how the rudder got damaged along the trailing edge. I didnt think it was possible to contact the elevator at that point.

What else did it hit?

My thoughts exactly, the long scratch is where the elevator would contact the rudder. Has the rudder been flexed sufficiently to crack the trailing edge?
 
Im having a hard time figuring out how the rudder got damaged along the trailing edge. I didnt think it was possible to contact the elevator at that point.

Inertia
The entire mass of the rudder is moving rapidly to one side but then is instantaneously stopped by the rudder stop at one end.
The remaining mass of the rudder attempts to stay in motion which puts a twist load on the rudder. This is also how the indentations from the trailing edge of the elevators occur, even though there was likely clearance between the rudder and elevators at full travel.
The issue is amplified even more if it is a rudder with a counter balance weight.

It looks like this one might be a later rudder with the counter balance. If so, it would be an easy repair because it would essentially involve removing the skin and installing a new pre-punched RV-8 rudder skin.

If it is an early vintage (short) rudder, removing the skin and match drilling a new one would still be the simplest repair because the hinge points were established by the builder based on dimensions. It would be far easier to reuse the same sub-structure frame than making a new one that would properly fit the vertical stab.

I agree that the rudder should be replaced before further flight.
If it needs to be ferried, a light weight bent patch could be made and installed with blind rivets. It would be prudent to reduce speed slightly for the ferry flight.
 
Inertia
...

Unfortunately I had the same thing happen to me, and it is from inertia. Very strong windstorm broke the tiedown straps and it spun the plane unlocking the rear wheel / rudder. Same denting / tearing on trailing edge. It just kept flexing back and forth until it tore / folded. You can even see where it bent so far the hinge got into the skin. The holes on the side are from the elevator.

EpTP1Vel.jpg


FgGk0Lml.jpg


End result was getting a new rudder built. On the plus side (insurance took care of this) it is one of the easiest pieces to build and replace.
 
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Some wind got a hold of my rudder during the last front that came through. Overall it still appears straight, but I am a bit concerned about what to do with two small tears in the trailing edge. It doesn't look horrible, but I was wondering what more experienced folks think the best way to repair this is.

if I remember correctly from some past photo's, this is the approximate location they begin to tear during a flutter event.

20191117_171400.jpg
 
It it got that damaged by banging back and flexing both ways, holy ****. It could be more than just the rudder that needs to be looked at.
 
Mine is definitely not as bad as yours was (no dent, trailing edge still straight), but it sounds like a rebuild.

I'm pretty sure this is the larger 8 tail. Would this be the same tail that is on early 7s as well? I got a PM with a good price on a folded trailing edge rudder from a 7 build.

Thanks for all the input!
 
It it got that damaged by banging back and flexing both ways, holy ****. It could be more than just the rudder that needs to be looked at.

Yep, check the mounts in the V stab for any play, loose jam nuts, cracked paint around the mounting hardware etc.

All that inertia from swinging in the wind was connected at the hinge line.

Dont forget Newton's 3rd.
 
That is one heckuva trim tab. Maybe try a new rudder, test fly, other rigging adjustments as needed.
 
Put a Long Straight-Edge Along Trailing Edge

Highly likely it?s badly bowed. A new skin may not be enough.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP
 
Same thing

Exact thing happened to me in Magdalen Islands in RV7A. Rudder lock broke and split the rudder in same location. Winds were gusty 40 kts and there was no hangar to store the aircraft. Airport manager called me and in broken English simply said ?your airplane is broken?.

There was AME there and we repaired rudder with alum sheet and pop rivets. Took off tail fairing and inspected everything. Flew airplane home about 1 hour with no issues. Trim was a bit off but no big deal. I wouldn?t personally say the aircraft is grounded just don?t take airplane to VNE.

Replacing skin is not worth it. Ordered new rudder from Vans for like $300.

Stu



Some wind got a hold of my rudder during the last front that came through. Overall it still appears straight, but I am a bit concerned about what to do with two small tears in the trailing edge. It doesn't look horrible, but I was wondering what more experienced folks think the best way to repair this is.

20191117_171400.jpg


(Its an RV6A, so it doesn't have the riveted in trailing edge wedge.)
 
Replacing skin is not worth it. Ordered new rudder from Vans for like $300.

As mentioned already, this working depends on the vintage of the emp kit that this RV-6A was built from.

It will work if it is a late version counter balanced rudder.

There is a very good chance it would not work if it is an early rudder.

Regardless of which it was, re-skinning would be quite a bit quick. Particularly with a later version pre-punch rudder.
Prep a new skin.
Drill the old one off.
Rivet the new one on.
Done
 
I have the early 6 rudder, so I'm pretty sure I'll be drilling off the old skin, inspecting, and reskinning. I'm pretty sure the subframe is not damaged as the rudder is still straight, with no dents, bends, etc. Just the tears at the end of the internal stiffeners.
 
I have the early 6 rudder, so I'm pretty sure I'll be drilling off the old skin, inspecting, and reskinning. I'm pretty sure the subframe is not damaged as the rudder is still straight, with no dents, bends, etc. Just the tears at the end of the internal stiffeners.
Yep drill off the skin. The spar and end ribs should be OK. Van's should have replacement skin, but if he does not, buy raw stock and make your own using old rudder as a pattern. Buy local if at all possible to save shipping. Making the TE bend can be done with same makeshift lumber, hinge, clamps. It's not worth drilling off the stiffeners, make new ones. The end fairings should be reusable as well. All the best.
 
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