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New RV Flap Actuator - New Product Intro

You're right. On further searching, I found that the sites offering them in the $100-130 range here in North America all offer that they can be made in custom stroke lengths and with custom end-fittings.

I suspect some of the cost will be in getting a custom length, and some will be in arranging for a small run that come with a threaded hole in the end to take an eye bolt, rather than a cross-hole for a pin.

The rest will be markup, which I don't begrudge someone running a business to charge. I may go look for the source parts and do it myself, but I suspect at the end of the day I would waste more than $150 in my time while doing it.

Agreed, you could buy it in the states and pay another middleman if you like. There are suppliers all over the web and yes overseas (where they are all made anyway) that offer up just about any inch length and any quantity in the standard configuration with the crosshole. If it's a "whole inch" length it's not considered "custom" meaning 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 etc. It could still be used with the crosshole and custom brackets without being modded. Being that this site is filled with builders with many talents a simple mod of the actuator is child's play for most.

I just like to provide any and all sources and info that I know of so that others can make their own informed decision on which way to go, buy it or build it. Some will buy it to save time and others will build it to save money.

I also dont begrudge anyone for trying to make a profit. There are many owners/builders who dont want yet another task on their plate and will buy it from Pat all day long to save them the time.
 
There are many owners/builders who dont want yet another task on their plate and will buy it from Pat all day long to save them the time.

Nothing wrong with trying to save a few bucks and it has to be balanced against the time it takes to source the item and make sure it will work for you. I appreciate Pat doing that and have no problem at all paying more for that. I'm happy with the product so far and Pat's service. After all, you could pay over $400 to Vans for an somewhat similar item that has no built in potentiometer. Lastly, I like supporting the "family" of fellow RV builders.
 
Nothing wrong with trying to save a few bucks and it has to be balanced against the time it takes to source the item and make sure it will work for you. I appreciate Pat doing that and have no problem at all paying more for that. I'm happy with the product so far and Pat's service. After all, you could pay over $400 to Vans for an somewhat similar item that has no built in potentiometer. Lastly, I like supporting the "family" of fellow RV builders.

I agree, nothing wrong with buying one at all. Everyone has to make a choice. I'm sure Pat has a great product. I never liked the Van's version personally, I've been using the same 12v and 24v style linear actuators like Pat supplies for about 15 years now for various mechanical applications not related to aviation and they have all worked flawlessly without any issues. When I was looking for a flap motor it was a no brainer to use the same style linear actuator. The built in pot is perfect for a flap situation and one less thing to worry about and it saves time in mounting an external pot and hooking up that linkage. Besides the internal pot is a bit more accurate.
 
Hi Mark, here is a photo provided by one of our customers who installed our actuator in an RV-8. He said that all he had to do was position the upper bracket a little higher on the bulkhead and make the opening in the armrest larger to accommodate the increased size of the actuator. He said it was a relatively easy installation. Perhaps he'll weigh in here.

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Any RV4 pics of this flap motor available?

Thanks Robert
 
RV8 Actuators

Pat, I see that the RV Max flap actuator specifically isn't recommended for the RV8 due to the extra bulk. But alas, I am building an 8A and hoping to get a good actuator with internal position sensor. Do you have any of the old ones lying around that you would be willing to part with?

Separately, I'm curious about the wiring hookup. What do you connect the sensor to for controlling the position?
 
Hi Trent,

I'll also send you a PM. I would like to send a copy of the wiring schematic to your email address. The actuator has an internal pot, no Hall Effect used. Please send me an email and I'll respond with a copy of the schematic. Thanks!
 
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We are pleased to announce the introduction of our new RV Flap Actuator. We have been testing 3 prototypes in our RV-6 aircraft for the past 6 months with excellent results.

We consider our new actuator to be an upgraded version of the stock flap motor. It has the standard 5" stroke, but the motor stops when it gets to the end of the stroke. So if you've ever thought about installing flaps-up limit switches to stop the flap motor, this unit is for you. Additionally, it has an internal position sensor, so if you've been thinking about mounting an external position sensor to monitor flaps position, this unit is for you!

Flaps extension/retraction speed is about the same, as is the amperage draw of the motor.

If you're interested in learning more details, please visit our web site and download a copy of the Installation & Operating Instructions. We detail the steps that we took to convert our old flap motor to our new actuator in our RV-6. We've included several photos of the changeover.

We also think this unit solves any issues you may have had with "grease migration", a problem that has plagued many of the stock flap motors. Additionally, the safety-wire service bulletin that was issued for the stock flap motors is not required for this actuator, obviously because it doesn't keep running when it gets to the end of the stroke.

Please compare the price of our actuator with the stock flap motor, which just might be the best feature of our new product!

Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks!

Pat -
How is this one any different than the one I bought from you a year or two ago? FYI - although it hasn’t flown yet, I m very pleased with it.
 
Pat, you are a Steely-eyed Missile Man!

This sure solves a bunch of installation and maintenance issues with the old-style actuator. I especially like the built-in position sensor, which greatly simplifies things.

Rethinking systems to increase function and reliability at a lower cost is a noble objective.

Cheers,
Vern
 
Pat -
How is this one any different than the one I bought from you a year or two ago? FYI - although it hasn’t flown yet, I m very pleased with it.

Hi Sam, yes we replaced the actuator that you have with our newer model that was originally designed for the RV-10/-14, the RV Max Flap Actuator. This is the only one we sell now. It has more torque and generally a better overall quality, a bit larger and more robust. I have one of the older units in my RV-6 going on 6 years now with no issues, however, as they wear out, we recommend going to the newer unit. I expect the one in my RV-6 to last many more years, however.
 
Pat, you are a Steely-eyed Missile Man!

This sure solves a bunch of installation and maintenance issues with the old-style actuator. I especially like the built-in position sensor, which greatly simplifies things.

Rethinking systems to increase function and reliability at a lower cost is a noble objective.

Cheers,
Vern

Vern, not sure what a Steely-eyed Missile Man is, but I like the sound of it so I'll take it! Thanks for the kind words!

I can tell you we are selling these at a pretty brisk clip and they seem to be gaining acceptance in the RV world. Trying hard to keep up with the demand.
 
Vern, not sure what a Steely-eyed Missile Man is, but I like the sound of it so I'll take it! Thanks for the kind words!

I can tell you we are selling these at a pretty brisk clip and they seem to be gaining acceptance in the RV world. Trying hard to keep up with the demand.

I see it also fits the 7. Do you have install instructions?
How do the sensors and internal stops work?
No need for a flap position sensor?
 
5 conductors altogether with the position sensor typical 3 conductor yellow, blue and gray with gray the ground, blue the field brush and yellow aux and 2 conductors for the motor that when applied run the motor one way or the other. (Colors might have changed but you get the drill) The travel I don't believe can be adjusted with programming but maybe things have changes since I installed mine. I set it up with the stops maximum flaps desired and slight reflex. I could have done it in VPX but thought this was a safer method. So far has been flawless. Do have it programmed where needs to be under Vf for half and full flaps. Again very nice product and seemingly very robust.
 
I see it also fits the 7. Do you have install instructions?
How do the sensors and internal stops work?
No need for a flap position sensor?

Hi Larry, position sensor is an internal potentiometer and works just like the Ray Allen POS-12 does except you don't need an external sensor. Easy to calibrate your flap position gauge on your EFIS. Internal stops shut the motor off at both fully extended and fully retracted. Motor does not keep running when it reaches the end of its stroke.

Install instructions can be downloaded from the web site.
 
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This is the one I bought, a 12 volt, 5" linear actuator with feedback and 225lbs of torque/force. They are all made by the same company and different manufacturers apply their own label. Compare them all, it's the same actuator. snipped
Yes, the torque increases as shaft speed decreases. Obviously, it's the same motor. Only the gearing changes. Anyone know what the specs [speed/torque/distance] are on the original flap actuator sold by Vans?

Charlie
 
Hi Larry, position sensor is an internal potentiometer and works just like the Ray Allen POS-12 does except you don't need an external sensor. Easy to calibrate your flap position gauge on your EFIS. Internal stops shut the motor off at both fully extended and fully retracted. Motor does not keep running when it reaches the end of its stroke.

Install instructions can be downloaded from the web site.

Some builders have had to modify their actuators to limit max flap deflection to prevent the top of the flap skin from popping out from under the wing trailing edge such that the wing trailing edge gets bent in retraction. Can this be easily done on your actuator?
 
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