Slow Cranking with Skytech LS

[petehowell]

This past weekend on a tailgating trip to Ames, the LS starter spun slowly again. So I pulled the solenoid, got a free replacement and put it all back together. Really an easy repair. Easier than on a 2005 Crown Vic!

Initial solenoid went 1865 hours, this BWD S5613 went about 635 hours. I'll not complain. It was a good chance to clean contacts as well.

Maybe it is worth changing every 10 oil changes or so........

[BillL]

Originally Posted by petehowell

This past weekend on a tailgating trip to Ames, the LS starter spun slowly again. So I pulled the solenoid, got a free replacement and put it all back together. Really an easy repair. Easier than on a 2005 Crown Vic!

Initial solenoid went 1865 hours, this BWD S5613 went about 635 hours. I'll not complain. It was a good chance to clean contacts as well.

Maybe it is worth changing every 10 oil changes or so........

Thanks for the update Pete! I had a cracked solder joint that plagued my starts with clicks from Hobbs 12 to 180 hrs.

For others reference, there is also a "Standard Brand" number SS754 for this solenoid. Rockauto has the best price (~$20) but O-Reillys (~$40) was purchased for time sensitive flight. Genuine Ford Part Number F6VZ11390A . . . maybe useful for non USA locations

I am beginning to ponder a personal parts department for inventory management.

[bjdecker]

Originally Posted by BillL

Thanks for the update Pete! I had a cracked solder joint that plagued my starts with clicks from Hobbs 12 to 180 hrs.

Has anyone attempted to re-flow the solder pool?

I'm thinking the Weller pencil type with the wide tip (3/16" or 1/4") would work ... or break out Dad's Weller "Space Gun" (8250A), that would definitely work

[petehowell]

Originally Posted by bjdecker

... or break out Dad's Weller "Space Gun" (8250A), that would definitely work

Pew, Pew Pew Pew!! Laser "space gun" sounds.......

[hgerhardt]

For those with cracked solder joints, it would be a good idea to flow a piece of shielding braid from a multi-conductor cable into the solder pool to help reinforce it. This is the same idea as fiberglass+resin composite.

[dmattmul]

A tech friend advised me that I should not jump the B+ and S terminal on my Sky Tec 149NL and use this in the starter enable/disable switch to turn off the circuit manually so there was not a possibility of the starter engaging when the engine is running. I've researched this and can not find any information. I do use a switch to disable the starter. Also using VPX. Is there a concern of solenoid closing at the wrong time? The VPX does have a start circuit that turns off positive 12 volts over 600 RPM. Is this a concern?

[uk_figs]

Originally Posted by petehowell

This past weekend on a tailgating trip to Ames, the LS starter spun slowly again. So I pulled the solenoid, got a free replacement and put it all back together. Really an easy repair. Easier than on a 2005 Crown Vic!

Initial solenoid went 1865 hours, this BWD S5613 went about 635 hours. I'll not complain. It was a good chance to clean contacts as well.

Maybe it is worth changing every 10 oil changes or so........

Having the same issue and assumed the PC680 needs to be replaced (6 years old), why does the solenoid cause slow cranking?
Figs

[BillL]

Originally Posted by dmattmul

A tech friend advised me that I should not jump the B+ and S terminal on my Sky Tec 149NL and use this in the starter enable/disable switch to turn off the circuit manually so there was not a possibility of the starter engaging when the engine is running. I've researched this and can not find any information. I do use a switch to disable the starter. Also using VPX. Is there a concern of solenoid closing at the wrong time? The VPX does have a start circuit that turns off positive 12 volts over 600 RPM. Is this a concern?

The double solenoid for starting was an issue found back in the RVAviator days and Vans posted it in a newsletter. If it applied then, it applies now. A historian can quote date.

The explanation IIRC was that the starting motor solenoid would get energized (back fed) by the PM motor as the RPM accelerated rapidly during starting. Then it would not release. The firewall solenoid will release.

Originally Posted by uk_figs

Having the same issue and assumed the PC680 needs to be replaced (6 years old), why does the solenoid cause slow cranking?
Figs

High resistance.

Originally Posted by bjdecker

Has anyone attempted to re-flow the solder pool?

I'm thinking the Weller pencil type with the wide tip (3/16" or 1/4") would work ... or break out Dad's Weller "Space Gun" (8250A), that would definitely work

No way a tiny soldering iron would do this job. Besides, there is a rivet that is supposed to hold that terminal firmly, if it comes loose (mine did) there is a bending moment on the solder joint. I can not honestly say, 100%, that it was not builder induced.

Being stranded at a desolate airport was not worth the $20-40 savings. Although worth having a free spare until . . . . nah. Not going to happen.

Hmmm - - 10 oil changes sounds like a good plan.

[RC62]

Thanks Pete for your initial post and follow-up years later. It's really helpful.

[airguy]

Originally Posted by hgerhardt

For those with cracked solder joints, it would be a good idea to flow a piece of shielding braid from a multi-conductor cable into the solder pool to help reinforce it. This is the same idea as fiberglass+resin composite.

I had the same thing happen at about 300 hours. I was on the ground in Arkansas all loaded up for departure and hit the switch - nothing. I suspected a loose wire on the solenoid coil circuit, and knowing where it was mounted, I held the starter key in the crank position while tapping my right foot on the firewall close to the heater duct, and BINGO, she cranked up. I replaced the solenoid when I got home. On inspection it was obvious the rivet holding it together was loose.