rvanstory
Well Known Member
For months I've tinkered with several things to try to get my #6 cylinder CHT under 400 in climb. All other cylinders were great, but #6 in this heat wave would get to 415 in climbout (at 130 KIAS).
I had already removed both front air dams during phase one for cooling. Last week, I decided to test adding the air dam back to #2 cylinder. For a "TEST" I just used aluminum tape. It made ALL the difference I needed. In climb at 120 KIAS (steeper than normal for me) #6 CHT stayed below 400.
Today, put back in a permanent air dam on #2 cylinder. Same result on test flight. #6 CHT under 400 on climbout AND #2 to #6 CHT spread was within 2 degrees during cruise phase. PERFECT!!
If you're still building your 10, I'd re recommend making your air dams "removable" instead of riveting them in. I think it'll make it much easier for you to tinker with it as needed.
I had already removed both front air dams during phase one for cooling. Last week, I decided to test adding the air dam back to #2 cylinder. For a "TEST" I just used aluminum tape. It made ALL the difference I needed. In climb at 120 KIAS (steeper than normal for me) #6 CHT stayed below 400.
Today, put back in a permanent air dam on #2 cylinder. Same result on test flight. #6 CHT under 400 on climbout AND #2 to #6 CHT spread was within 2 degrees during cruise phase. PERFECT!!
If you're still building your 10, I'd re recommend making your air dams "removable" instead of riveting them in. I think it'll make it much easier for you to tinker with it as needed.