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Old 08-17-2021, 12:51 PM
Mdragon Mdragon is offline
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49
Default Taking out old panel, trick to cabin heat and alt air source cables?

Iím in the process of putting in a new Dynon system.
I have everything I need out of the old panel except for the cabin heat cable and the alt air cable. Tried to unscrew the knobs on the proximal end so I could get it out of panel, but no luck. Outside of removing the cables from the air box and heater box, and all the work involved in unhooking and backing out the cables, is there a trick?

Trying to avoid unnecessary work.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-17-2021, 01:28 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,509

You have to unhook them from the thing it is controlling and back out the entire cable.
Bruce Hill
RV-9A N5771H flown over 900 hours!
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Old 08-17-2021, 02:33 PM
Untainted123 Untainted123 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Azle, TX
Posts: 49
Default The Sad Truth

The sad truth is that yes, to remove or replace the cable, they gotta come all the from the thing that they control (much to my dismay ). What some people do is horseshoe out the hole so that it can be loosened and slid down the gap and out, but many find this unsightly, or possibly unsafe if it can get out of the hole somehow if it were loose. You could get fancy though, and have some sort of 2 piece hole with nutplates or something.
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Old 08-17-2021, 02:38 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,062

McFarlane Aviation sells a line of push pull cables with removable knobs, but I don't know if the cable can be pulled through or if there's something obstructing that. Might be worth investigating for the replacement.

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Old 08-17-2021, 09:36 PM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ottertail, MN
Posts: 2,459

When I re-did my panel a few years ago, I put these controls on their own little brackets just under the panel precisely so that when I need to remove the panel, I won't have to futz with them.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 1750+ hours
KADC, Wadena, MN
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Old 08-18-2021, 08:19 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 6,693

Depends upon the cable, I suspect. On mine, I was able to remove the main push rod (most all bowden cables allow this) and then the front bezel was un-screwed off the threads of the body, which was just a hollow bolt, so that it could be removed from behind.
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019

Last edited by lr172 : 08-18-2021 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 08-18-2021, 10:26 AM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,578

Unfortunately the A-740 style control cables (heat, alt air, carb heat, etc) supplied in the kits are solid & would require total disconnect at both ends in this case. As mentioned above, you could remote mount them after your panel upgrades, or change them out to cables that come apart for easier removal.
built a few RVs, rebuilt a few more, hot rodded more, & maintained/updated a big bunch more

Last edited by Ralph Inkster : 08-18-2021 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 08-23-2021, 07:09 AM
Mdragon Mdragon is offline
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49

I opted to horseshoe the alt air and the cabin heat, which were the only two I couldn't easily detach from the panel. Turned out well.

Figured as soon as I had everything put together, I would need to pull the panel and be cursing myself for not modifying the attachment points for easy disassembly.
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