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  #1  
Old 05-10-2021, 07:24 AM
RVFan671 RVFan671 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Seattle
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Default What size rivets are used between rear fuel tank baffle and the ribs?

I'm waiting for the electronic plans to arrive and wanted to verify they are 1/8 inch blind rivets before I go after them with the drill. Removing the baffle to clean out slosh. Want more access than the method of drilling 5 inch access holes after attempting clean out through the existing access hole in the first bay.
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Old 05-10-2021, 08:11 AM
MS1095 MS1095 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: West Chester, PA
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The plans call for 3/32" rivets in the inboard and outboard ribs. The 3 middle ribs use AD 41-H rivets (1/8")

You would also have to drill out the top and bottom row of rivets along the rear baffle and reseal. It's probably a lot easier to use vans repair kit and drill the 5 holes IMHO.
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Old 05-10-2021, 08:21 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Location: Dallas area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVFan671 View Post
I'm waiting for the electronic plans to arrive and wanted to verify they are 1/8 inch blind rivets before I go after them with the drill. Removing the baffle to clean out slosh. Want more access than the method of drilling 5 inch access holes after attempting clean out through the existing access hole in the first bay.
I might suggest that you rethink your decision to remove the rear baffle. Cutting large holes in the baffle is much easier and less invasive. Don't let the difficulty of working through the "end" access hole discourage you. It is totally different than working through holes in the baffle. Working through the "end" hole, you can't see the inside of the end rib. Working through holes in the baffle allows good visibility of all ribs.

Just a suggestion. Final decision is, of course, your's.
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Old 05-10-2021, 09:37 AM
RVFan671 RVFan671 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Seattle
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The reason I'm leaning toward baffle removal is because in this first bay I'm ending up with quite a lot of small pieces/flakes and it is difficult to see through the hole and have my arm elbow deep with gloves equally as long to wipe them out. Removing the baffle would give me all the access I could need. I'm not as concerned about resealing since I think there is risk I need to lay more proseal on existing joints in the tank.

The baffle itself has 1/16th thick (maybe up to 1/8 I places) slosh. The rest of the tank its thinner. Putting a bunch of MEK and sloshing it around in the tank has loosened or made most of the thick stuff come off. Anyone who has done the work before can feel free to send me a PM and I'd love to chat about your approach over the phone.
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