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RV-14 Gas Spring Struts replacement.

frghtdg

Active Member
Hello everyone,
My canopy doesn't remain up as firm as it did and I suspect one of the gas struts has become weak. I plan to replace both and I'm seeking inputs, advice, ideas from anyone who has been down this road before.
I plan to use Van's parts unless there's a better idea.
Thanks in advance,
Hank
 
It took me about 30 minutes to replace one of the struts .. it's really going to come down to if anything is in your way of getting to the bolts .. so every 14 is going to be different, not much useful advise, but it wasn't a painful project .. I remember being pleasantly surprised how easy it went :eek:
 
No, good advice, you were encouraging.
I'm thinking getting my old body under, then back out will be the worst of it.
Did you go with Van's struts?
H
 
Yep, just ordered from Vans. They are all probably made in the same factory in China.

A trick on getting comfortable that works for me .. take the seats out and put a pillow where the seat was, then lay with your back on the pillow and your feet (with shoes off) facing towards the sky. This puts your head and arms in the best position to do the work under the panel. Not perfect, but I've sat like that for hours working on wiring and was comfortable.
 
I had a strut fail on my -7, and decided to upgrade both struts from the 25 lbs (100 N) stock models with the 35 lbs (150 N) version, based on comments elsewhere here on VAF. The canopy stays up very nicely now; very secure.

Got mine at: https://www.siraweb.com
 
I had a strut fail on my -7, and decided to upgrade both struts from the 25 lbs (100 N) stock models with the 35 lbs (150 N) version, based on comments elsewhere here on VAF. The canopy stays up very nicely now; very secure.

Got mine at: https://www.siraweb.com

I have no facts here but my first thought when I read this was that any increase in holding power will result in you having to twist the canopy to lower it. Not sure if it's a problem or even matters but just a thought. The 14's struts are in the middle of the front of the canopy, not on the sides like the 7. May be something to consider.
 
Yep, just ordered from Vans. They are all probably made in the same factory in China.

A trick on getting comfortable that works for me .. take the seats out and put a pillow where the seat was, then lay with your back on the pillow and your feet (with shoes off) facing towards the sky. This puts your head and arms in the best position to do the work under the panel. Not perfect, but I've sat like that for hours working on wiring and was comfortable.

Did you do it with the canopy secured open? I'm thinking the canopy needs to be removed via the quick disconnect.
How did you figure which one was weak?
H
 
Did you do it with the canopy secured open? I'm thinking the canopy needs to be removed via the quick disconnect.
How did you figure which one was weak?
H

I think we removed the canopy, we're using a 3D printed hinge covers that are removable.

The stock hinge cover's spring will deform when removing and will need to be replaced, it will not survive the removal procedure. Even if you think it did, that spring is so sensitive, that you'll never get it to lay all the way down again.

So ... if you're using the stock hinge covers and already painted the airplane, you may want to do it with the canopy secured in the open position.

If you haven't done the hinge covers, I would take the canopy off.
 
Strut replacement

I believe the new replacement struts for the 14 are slightly higher compression than the originals. It’s probably best to replace both at once so they are equal strength.
I’m 6’2” and 230 lbs. so it’s not easy getting under the panel of the 14A, but it’s a heck of a lot easier than getting under the panel on my old 6A. It helped me a lot to have my helper (wife) hand me tools and parts, so I didn’t have to get in and out from under the panel several times. I also changed them out one at a time and did not have to remove the canopy. But I did have my helper hold the canopy just in case it wanted to come down, and wiggle it to get the pins out and in.
 
I think we removed the canopy, we're using a 3D printed hinge covers that are removable.

The stock hinge cover's spring will deform when removing and will need to be replaced, it will not survive the removal procedure. Even if you think it did, that spring is so sensitive, that you'll never get it to lay all the way down again.

So ... if you're using the stock hinge covers and already painted the airplane, you may want to do it with the canopy secured in the open position.

If you haven't done the hinge covers, I would take the canopy off.

I made about 6 of those cover assemblies and had the painter paint 'em all...
 
I believe the new replacement struts for the 14 are slightly higher compression than the originals. It’s probably best to replace both at once so they are equal strength.
I’m 6’2” and 230 lbs. so it’s not easy getting under the panel of the 14A, but it’s a heck of a lot easier than getting under the panel on my old 6A. It helped me a lot to have my helper (wife) hand me tools and parts, so I didn’t have to get in and out from under the panel several times. I also changed them out one at a time and did not have to remove the canopy. But I did have my helper hold the canopy just in case it wanted to come down, and wiggle it to get the pins out and in.

Thanks,
All good information...advice.
H
 
This is true...

I believe the new replacement struts for the 14 are slightly higher compression than the originals. It’s probably best to replace both at once so they are equal strength.
I’m 6’2” and 230 lbs. so it’s not easy getting under the panel of the 14A, but it’s a heck of a lot easier than getting under the panel on my old 6A. It helped me a lot to have my helper (wife) hand me tools and parts, so I didn’t have to get in and out from under the panel several times. I also changed them out one at a time and did not have to remove the canopy. But I did have my helper hold the canopy just in case it wanted to come down, and wiggle it to get the pins out and in.

My kit # was 140329 and shipped with the gas springs meant for 14A kits. The taildraggers need stronger springs and later kits shipped with them. I think the originals were rated 300n and the later ones are rated 350n. I have had no problems in two years now with the heavier springs, but had problems right off the bat with the original ones.

Changing them was an absolute beast, however. You need someone like Phoenix (Bill K’s wife) who can get under there with both shoulders and address the hardware with both hands. I cannot do that and after way too many attempts, recruited sufficiently smaller help.
 
I just attempted installing the new updated struts. Absolute worst experience I have had with any airplane at anytime.

So, I put vise grips on the pilots side strut so the canopy could not fall when I removed the copilot side. The bolt was easy to get out towards the firewall, but it is nearly impossible to see the clevis pin and cotter pin towards the panel. I spent 30 minutes removing the pin. Then came the fun part - trying to reinstall the clevis pin. There is not enough room to get two hands up there to hold the strut and pin, so you must attempt to barely push in the pin and hold it while using the other part of your hand to coax the strut into place. I spent 2 hours dropping the pin every 2 minutes and finally lost the pin down the tunnel.

So, I went to the hardware store and bought a 1/4 lynch pin and I was able to negotiate that in with one hand. Even if there were no avionics behind the panel there is zero chance of replacing that pin the traditional way. Very bad design.

I will do the pilot side some other time.
 
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Strut replacement

I just attempted installing the new updated struts. Absolute worst experience I have had with any airplane at anytime.

So, I put vise grips on the pilots side strut so the canopy could not fall when I removed the copilot side. The bolt was easy to get out towards the firewall, but it is nearly impossible to see the clevis pin and cotter pin towards the panel. I spent 30 minutes removing the pin. Then came the fun part - trying to reinstall the clevis pin. There is not enough room to get two hands up there to hold the strut and pin, so you must attempt to barely push in the pin and hold it while using the other part of your hand to coax the strut into place. I spent 2 hours dropping the pin every 2 minutes and finally lost the pin down the tunnel.

So, I went to the hardware store and bought a 1/4 lynch pin and I was able to negotiate that in with one hand. Even if there were no avionics behind the panel there is zero chance of replacing that pin the traditional way. Very bad design.

I will do the pilot side some other time.

I replaced mine a few years ago (Had the original struts which were weaker) and it was not an issue. Did you take off the canopy? If I remember correct that made it much easier.
 
Didn’t take off the canopy since it didn’t provide any more room where the attach points are. I will buy another lynch pin and do the pilot side this weekend.
 
I just attempted installing the new updated struts. Absolute worst experience I have had with any airplane at anytime.

So, I put vise grips on the pilots side strut so the canopy could not fall when I removed the copilot side. The bolt was easy to get out towards the firewall, but it is nearly impossible to see the clevis pin and cotter pin towards the panel. I spent 30 minutes removing the pin. Then came the fun part - trying to reinstall the clevis pin. There is not enough room to get two hands up there to hold the strut and pin, so you must attempt to barely push in the pin and hold it while using the other part of your hand to coax the strut into place. I spent 2 hours dropping the pin every 2 minutes and finally lost the pin down the tunnel.

So, I went to the hardware store and bought a 1/4 lynch pin and I was able to negotiate that in with one hand. Even if there were no avionics behind the panel there is zero chance of replacing that pin the traditional way. Very bad design.

I will do the pilot side some other time.

For the same reasons as Hank, I replaced during the last annual the 2 gas struts. The slightest light wind closed my canopy. I also advise to change both. I did it alone with the canopy in place.
It takes a little flexibility and efforts to remove the bolts and pins. Don't forget to put a wooden rod between canopy's handle and the floor) to prevent the canopy from falling without the struts. For the installation of the new Vans struts (400 N instead of 300), I put them in compression at less than half of their travel using a safety wire that I only had to be cut once the bolts and pins have been replaced. To align the holes, I used one leg to raise or lower the canopy. Less than 2 hours of work for the both. Much less painful than I feared.
I am very satisfied with the new struts and no more risk of receiving the canopy on the skull.
 
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