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Headset jacks

LarryT

Well Known Member
Are headset jacks (phone jacks) available in various quality levels?

I ask this question because of recent experience. While I was in San Diego for about five days, I unplugged my in-ear headset, intending to take it with me and change the ear buds. When I plugged it back in five days later, the headset did not work until I fiddled around and twisted the male plug in the jack.

The male plugs appear to be gold-plated, which I thought was supposed to be immune to oxidation. That got me wondering about variations in the design intent of the jacks themselves. Do some jacks fall into the "we can make it worse and sell it cheaper" category. If so what are the best ones to purchase?

Larry Tompkins
544WB -6A
W52 Battle Ground, WA
 
Yes they are.

I'd recommend Switchcraft or Amphenol brand connectors. The cheapies you can get at Radioshack are a failure waiting to happen (they usually just disassemble themselves with any sort of force)

On the other side of the connection, my old DC headset with brass plugs needs a cleaning with scotchbrite every once in a while to keep the oxide off.

Paige
 
Gold plateing is very thin. Back in the day in the computer world we specified 30 micro inches of gold plate on connector pins. This was later reduced to 15 micro inches. This was "good" for about 13 to 15 insertion / removal cycles before the gold was worn away and the connector was exposing the undermetal.

Once the base metal is exposed to the environment (gold worn away), coroshion would commence. Several mateing cycles could clean up the connection, and if the final connection was gas tite, then a reliable connection could be maintained.

Bottom line...the fewer number of mateing cycles the better.
 
Replies to posts 2 & 3

To #2: I plugged my old DCs (purchased in 1990, when I started taking flight lessons) that had sat on the shelf for 3 years into my daughter's side and they worked fine. I do remember having to scotchbrite the oxidation off the brass on prior occasions.

To #3: Sounds like the gold plating is for "showroom appeal" then. I worked in the auto industry so I am quite familiar with that term - no doubt invented by the marketing department.

I will use an inspection mirror to see what kind of jacks I have.

Thanks,

Larry
 
Some years ago I posted some data on the audio jacks in use. There is no formal specification on the geometry of the female connector or placement of the contact points referenced to the barrel face. Each vendor / supplier can come up with slight variations. What I have seen is that supplier "A" plugs & jacks work well together, but may not interconnect reliably with supplier "B" stuff.

Same is true with the plating and choice of base metal. Some will retain good springiness, others not so good.

There is formal documentation & specifications for the MIC plugs we use. I have not seen the specs for the MIC jack, but did not spend any length of time seeking them out.
 
Formal Specs

Some years ago I posted some data on the audio jacks in use. There is no formal specification on the geometry of the female connector or placement of the contact points referenced to the barrel face. Each vendor / supplier can come up with slight variations. What I have seen is that supplier "A" plugs & jacks work well together, but may not interconnect reliably with supplier "B" stuff.

Same is true with the plating and choice of base metal. Some will retain good springiness, others not so good.

There is formal documentation & specifications for the MIC plugs we use. I have not seen the specs for the MIC jack, but did not spend any length of time seeking them out.

There is a difference between manufacturers, and there is also a formal spec.

As you might guess, it's a Mil Spec.

Note the Switchcraft selection guide that mentions Commercial and Mil Spec audio jacks.

http://www.switchcraft.com/category.aspx?Parent=42

I found this out when my good headset (Lightspeed) fit my jacks, but my el-cheapo rear seat passenger back-up headset was a loose fit.

Putting the two plugs next to each other you could see a difference in dimensions.

If you are getting jacks for your RV, only buy the Mil Spec ones and the good headset brands will be OK.

I like these -

http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=406

M112BX.jpg


There is a Mil Spec for the smaller diameter mic. plugs too -

http://www.switchcraft.com/Category.aspx?Parent=62

Available from the usual good electronic distributers -

http://www.switchcraft.com/Stock_Check_Simple.aspx?Part_No=M112BX

The Mil Spec for mating part number combinations is here -

http://www.everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-P/MIL-P-642D_22073/
 
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I'm too lazy to look it up, but there's a ground-isolated version of that jack, also. Eliminates the need for fiber isolation washers. The hold force of those plastic body connectors is quite a bit weaker than typical all-metal connectors. (Might actually be an advantage; less likely to damage headset cord/plug if there's an inadvertent pull on the cord.)

Charlie
(audio tech in a former life)
 
I'm too lazy to look it up, but there's a ground-isolated version of that jack, also. Eliminates the need for fiber isolation washers. The hold force of those plastic body connectors is quite a bit weaker than typical all-metal connectors. (Might actually be an advantage; less likely to damage headset cord/plug if there's an inadvertent pull on the cord.)

Charlie
(audio tech in a former life)

That would be the N112BX, also available from the usual sources -

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?ICID=ILC-1C130&sku=89K7614

It's not cheap Chinese plastic, the Switchcraft ones are stronger than they look...:)

Mouser also has this version in stock -

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=/ha2pyFaduhvOExGe7I7Yw3nyCBChMuhWb1Hn0A6omY=
 
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For regular headset use, don't fall for any of those enclosed jacks previously listed or linked to. While it may look like an ideal solution on paper, in the real world situation of aircraft it is not. The open frame ones that are tin plated are far superior for installation into high vibration/relatively dirty installations - plus, they are actually quite a bit more robust. Note that PS Engineering, Garmin, and most of the other reputable audio suppliers also recommend the heavier duty open frame jacks or either supply them with their products, and those are the ones we stock (Switchcraft brand). No need to go hunting all over reading pages upon pages of specs...gold plating or not.

The open frame jacks can be cleaned, adjusted, troubleshot, and connected much easier than the plastic enclosed ones. My experience with the plastic ones is that you can't clean them, you can't adjust them, you can't easily troubleshoot them, many customers melt them with their soldering irons, and the smaller thickness tabs don't last as long and sometimes just break from fatigue. Were I building an AMP or other static product for my house, I'd use those enclosed jacks, but I'd not use them in my plane....

Just my 2 cents as usual.

Cheers,
Stein
 
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Thanks...

...for all your responses. Satisfied my intellectual curiosity and it will help me make an improvement that doesn't cost very much but will make flying significantly more enjoyable.

Larry
 
I inherited an old grease can of headset jacks from a (very) quiet birdman.
These are all take outs from who knows where. I just inspect them, and if they are quality units in good shape, I de-solder the old wire ends off, clean them up, and use them.
As Stein says, they can be inspected, and adjusted.
Ask around at your EAA meeting and see if anyone has some laying around.
Otherwise, keep Stein's doors open, Aviation is still having a hard time.
 
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