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RV-9A, pilotjohns

Looking good John, keep it up man. Hopefully next year at Osh you can steal some of my beers this time. :)

That ground wire is too close to your fuel lines, I'm guessing you just don't have it supported yet? I'm surprised the boss on the right side of the engine didn't work out for you, worked beautifully on mine but that is a different engine so don't know how your setup is.

I see your engine is fuel injected, do your best to really minimize the amount of fuel line FWF or maybe even consider a return line if you have provision in the tank for it. Idling one of these bad boys in the summer time while hot is a real beotch! Not the end of the world but I tell myself quite often "dang I wish I had a return line". haha
 
Huh?

That ground wire is too close to your fuel lines,

Huh? What is the problem with the ground wire next to the fuel line?

In fact, Just tonight I tied them together so the fuel line supports the ground wire. I can understand a power wire off the positive side of the battery should not be near the fuel line because if the wire and line chaff together, the fuel line will be the short and cause lots of heat, but i didn't think a ground wire would be a problem.

I can put two adel clamps here instead to space the ground wire away from the fuel line.
 
Huh? What is the problem with the ground wire next to the fuel line?

In fact, Just tonight I tied them together so the fuel line supports the ground wire. I can understand a power wire off the positive side of the battery should not be near the fuel line because if the wire and line chaff together, the fuel line will be the short and cause lots of heat, but I didn't think a ground wire would be a problem.

I can put two adel clamps here instead to space the ground wire away from the fuel line.

It would probably be fine as long as it is supported however a DAR or tech councilor would most likely have issue with it. Fuel lines are generally considered sacred to the point that nothing else should be touching them or supported off of them. Also, the engine ground is being used during starting (it is your ground path back to the battery during starting). Long story short it does carry current during starting. If this cable breaks or gets disconnected the next ground path will be used and usually burn up (usually a mag wire).

Probably wouldn't be an issue but I highly doubt a DAR would be okay with it but I could be wrong.
 
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Yes You are right

Yup, you are right. i forgot this rule about fuel lines. I will change.

Also, ground is used also during normal operation as return for alternator charging current. I will add a second (redundant) ground, separate from the fuel line, and find a better support.

The mag grounds do not connect the engine to airframe; the mag switch only grounds the mags back thru the mag wire shield, the shield is isolated from the airframe, and the shield only connects to the mag case (gnd). I sure this was done to avoid the scenario you alluded to. I will need to check to make sure the mag grounds are not connected to the airframe; I will remove the engine grounds and make sure the engine block to airframe is open when the mag wires are connected. Good catch.

Since I will have redundant grounds, I will need to add an engine ground continuity check during the yearly condition inspection to make sure redundancy stays in place.

Thanks for the input.
 
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... Also, ground is used also during normal operation as return for alternator charging current. I will add a second (redundant) ground... I will need to add an engine ground continuity check during the yearly condition inspection to make sure redundancy stays in place.

Yes! A single engine to firewall ground is an SPOF for your dual alternators.
.
 
Yup, you are right. i forgot this rule about fuel lines. I will change.

Also, ground is used also during normal operation as return for alternator charging current. I will add a second (redundant) ground, separate from the fuel line, and find a better support.

The mag grounds do not connect the engine to airframe; the mag switch only grounds the mags back thru the mag wire shield, the shield is isolated from the airframe, and the shield only connects to the mag case (gnd). I sure this was done to avoid the scenario you alluded to. I will need to check to make sure the mag grounds are not connected to the airframe; I will remove the engine grounds and make sure the engine block to airframe is open when the mag wires are connected. Good catch.

Since I will have redundant grounds, I will need to add an engine ground continuity check during the yearly condition inspection to make sure redundancy stays in place.

Thanks for the input.

All good points there John. Hadn't thought about the alternator but you are correct.

The thing I like about running the ground on the boss on the right side of the engine is that anytime I check the oil you can also take a good look at the ground connection. I also check it with my hands every oil change.

Seems a lot of people do the engine ground a little different. In the end it all seems to work as long as they don't come loose. Keep up the good work John, can't wait to see her in person.

P.S. that is one sweet panel you got there!
 
Firewall forward

Lots of progress in the last few months. Here is a summary:

The engine is in and wired. At this stage, the instructions get a little sparse so it takes some time to figure out what others have done and decide on the best course. One area of isolationism is the fuel flow sensor, that red cube in the pictures. The firewall forward kit does not make provisions for it. Fortunately, my firewall forward kit had an extra fuel hose for the tail dragger version of my plane. I was able to use this extra hose to connect the red cube. The fuel lines are a little longer than I like, but adequate.

Secondly, the position of hole in the firewall for the mixture cable I didn't like. I ended up moving it next to the throttle cable. The new location might make it more difficult to change the oil, but that only happens once every 25 hours (once a month I hope). In addition, the factory location did not work with the length of cable that was included in the firewall forward kit. ( I am unusual because most builders install a carbureted engine; but me, naw, I had to go fuel injected. More Power)

Lastly, I am using the manifold pressure port on the right side of the engine. This required a longer hose to the sensor. Earls in Lawndale, CA made up a new line for me while I waited. What a great resource in the LA area when I visit.

The last bit of interior painting was done on the throttle quadrant plate. I thought this would be too flimsy, but once attached to the back up cable support, this became very rigid.

The last thing I have to figure out on the engine side of the firewall is how to plumb the fuel hose from the throttle body, on the bottom of the engine, to the spider fuel distributor on the top. The Lycoming factory hose is too short. If I used the factory hose, it would make a mess of the baffles. I will have to order a new hose once the baffles are installed.

My next step is to finish all the testing of the avionics to make sure there are no more wiring changes, and then install the last top skin on the fuselage.

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Quick Update

Just a quick update.
I have been working the fiberglass, starting with the top of the rudder so no ones sees my first attempts. So far so good. A big thank you to the Oshkosh Builder's workshop for the introduction to fiberglass; it really helped.

My trouble is the temperature is a little cool. I may have to bring the parts home to let them cure; maybe I will kick the wife out and move my kit into the living room for the fiberglass work. What dear, I can't hear you? Sorry living room door is locked, it must be broken. Come back in a month
 

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What dear, I can't hear you? Sorry living room door is locked, it must be broken. Come back in a month[/QUOTE]

HAHAHA awesome!
 
Fiberglass Bits

Having gone as far as I could go on the instrumentation and engine work, I am starting on the fiberglass bits. This consists of the elevator and rudder tips and the canopy framing.

The fiberglass work is not hard, just takes time due to the cure times. And I was really smart to wait until it gets really cold, and not during the warmer months, to do this work. The epoxy takes forever to cure in the cold. Should have done this work in the summer, but I really wasn't ready then anyway.

The tips come preformed, but require the ends be capped off. I used fiberglass foam, with 2 layers of cloth, followed by an epoxy and micro-balloon mixture. I also sealed the top of the vertical stabilizer to avoid water getting in, if it ever rains in the desert.

The tail light I am using is from FlyLEDS. The Vans rudder fairing has a very small provision for the light. The bracket that came with the light would not work (gold anodized bracket) so I made a custom one (the aluminum horse shoe shape). The supplied screws are metric, 3.0 x .5 mm.

I had to heat up the lower rudder fairing with a heat gun and tweak the front corners to get it to sit flat against the rudder.
 

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Seats Done

I am calling the seats done. I still have to do some of the of the interior stitching but havent figured out a better way than my first try.
Maybe good enough for first flight. Sure beats pillows.
 

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Looks good! I made my seats. one thing I found out is that you can affect your legroom by the back cushion thickness. I was a little bit cramped so I made thinner back cushions than I started with. Good luck on your first flight.
 
Just a quick update.
I have been working the fiberglass, starting with the top of the rudder so no ones sees my first attempts. So far so good. A big thank you to the Oshkosh Builder's workshop for the introduction to fiberglass; it really helped.

My trouble is the temperature is a little cool. I may have to bring the parts home to let them cure; maybe I will kick the wife out and move my kit into the living room for the fiberglass work. What dear, I can't hear you? Sorry living room door is locked, it must be broken. Come back in a month


Make a hotbox for curing the fiberglass like we had in the EAA fiberglass workshop ;)
 
Thanks

Make a hotbox for curing the fiberglass like we had in the EAA fiberglass workshop ;)

Thanks for the tip. the last few weeks has been sufficiently warm and nice for fiberglass work. But I have been doing the last of the clean up in prep for riveting of the forward top skin. I figure when it is time to fiberglass the canopy, it will be cold and raining again.
So I was thinking of getting some of those 4 x 8 foot foam panels from Lowe's and making a hot box like you suggested. Those panels are flammable, so I will have to be very careful with the heater.
 
Last structural panel on

We installed the last structural panel this weekend; The forward fuselage top panel.

Now it is on to fiberglassing and the gear.
 

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Thanks

Looking good John! Keep up the good work. Not too much longer now!
Thanks Jereme. I have been looking carefully at your pictures and am going to attempt what you did. I am a little nervous, so may mock up a sample windscreen to get the hang of it first.
 
Thanks Jereme. I have been looking carefully at your pictures and am going to attempt what you did. I am a little nervous, so may mock up a sample windscreen to get the hang of it first.

It worked great. It will be easier once you get started on it.
 
Congratulations John, I know it feels great to get that fwd top skin on! I just got mine on in Jan once wiring was done.
 
We installed the last structural panel this weekend; The forward fuselage top panel.

Now it is on to fiberglassing and the gear.

Congratulations John! That skin was one of the most challenging part for me. I had to train my then neighbor late Ed Fetchko to help me. A gent in his late eighties a Korean War vet was eager to help. It took us several weeks to rivet it. Who bucked yours?

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Finishing up stuff under panel

While waiting to paint the glareshield, i was finishing up stuff under the panel. I decided to make a j bend in the vent tubing to keep the rain out. Not sure if it helps or not, but what the heck, I had the extra tubing anyway.
 

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Canopy again

So I am back to the canopy again. I did not do the side skirts a year and a half ago when I was working the canopy because I thought they would be prone to damage during storage.

So I am doing the side skirts now. I am following Jcarne's method (what an awesome build log here on VAF, my hero). The side skirts will be the Van's aluminum that are sika-flexed
to the canopy and riveted to the canopy frame. I am going to paint the side skirts white to match the canopy frame. I think I found a Jet flex paint that matches the Van's white.

The rear skirt will be fiberglassed and sika-flex bonded to the canopy. (Although my canopy fit is good enough for a metal skirt, I presently have no rivets or screw holes in the plexiglass, and I do not want to add screw holes to hold the metal rear skirt)

The windscreen will be fitted last. I still have to paint the glare shield and the middle brace a light grey before installing the wind screen.
 

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Canopy ugh

Canopy; once I get thru this, hopefully I will be done learning as the FAA calls it.

So my side skirts are done and I am ready to bond onto the frame.
But I noticed the skirts wanted to pull in when cleco'd to the frame. So I added some epoxy/flox/cab-o-sil mixture to the spots where the canopy sticks out pass the frame. This allows the canopy skirt to sit nice all the way to the fuselage. In the picture one can see where the canopy was stick out past the canopy frame.

Following the lead of JCarne and Wirejock on these forums (thanks guys). I plane to sikaflex the canopy skirt to the canopy frame. I think I might use the Vans rivets to hold it all together. I am not using the inner skirt C-759 and hardware; instead using a big bead of sikaflex. It has held up for 2 years on the shelf, so it is good to go. The sikaflex on the outer is really just for sealing the canopy bubble to the side skirt.

I painted the outside skirt and brace (C-660 and C791) white to match the canopy frame. Right now everything is pilot drilled 3/32"and cleco'd.
I plan to drill the C791 to the C660 this weekend, then take apart, debur and dimple, countersink for rivets per plans, and re assembly with Van's rivets.

any comments welcomed. I see Wirejock just responded on another thread suggesting to just sikaflex everything together with minimal rivets; gotta think about that.


3/13/2022 EDIT: I would recommend not drilling the side skirt holes into the canopy frame while the frame is off the fuselage. I would recommend it is best to do this skirt to frame match hole drilling when the frame is on the fuselage. The reason is the skirt is curved. When on the bench, the position of this curve will be close to the fuselage curve, but wont exactly match. If one does this match hole drilling while the canopy frame is on the fuselage, then the curve will exactly match the fuselage curve. I found this out today when I drilled the inner skirt; it is really hard to adjust the outer skirt bend later when trying to drill the inner skirt; the metal is just too stiff.

Also, decided to Proseal instead of sikaflex the outer skirt to the canopy frame, see later posting


3/14/22 ok back to sikaflex. Not sure of the compatibility of proseal to canopy; we know sikaflex is good.
 

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Canopy; once I get thru this, hopefully I will be done learning as the FAA calls it.

So my side skirts are done and I am ready to bond onto the frame.
But I noticed the skirts wanted to pull in when cleco'd to the frame. So I added some epoxy/flox/cab-o-sil mixture to the spots where the canopy sticks out pass the frame. This allows the canopy skirt to sit nice all the way to the fuselage. In the picture one can see where the canopy was stick out past the canopy frame.

Following the lead of JCarne and Wirejock on these forums (thanks guys). I plane to sikaflex the canopy skirt to the canopy frame. I think I might use the Vans rivets to hold it all together. I am not using the inner skirt C-759 and hardware; instead using a big bead of sikaflex. It has held up for 2 years on the shelf, so it is good to go. The sikaflex on the outer is really just for sealing the canopy bubble to the side skirt.

I painted the outside skirt and brace (C-660 and C791) white to match the canopy frame. Right now everything is pilot drilled 3/32"and cleco'd.
I plan to drill the C791 to the C660 this weekend, then take apart, debur and dimple, countersink for rivets per plans, and re assembly with Van's rivets.

any comments welcomed. I see Wirejock just responded on another thread suggesting to just sikaflex everything together with minimal rivets; gotta think about that.

Here is a picture of my plans.

John I did exactly like your diagram shows except I did not use the flox for low spots. My side bows followed the fuse so perfectly I didn't need to. What is the yellow area denoting though?
 
Gap

John I did exactly like your diagram shows except I did not use the flox for low spots. My side bows followed the fuse so perfectly I didn't need to. What is the yellow area denoting though?

The yellow area is the gap between the outside edge of the canopy and the side frame. If this is not filled in, then the rivet pulls really hard on the skirt and i think the inside skirt wont be able to keep it in aligned with the fuselage.
This only occurs at the very front because the canopy is on the outside of the front hoop, and there the side bar meets the hoop.

If I was to just sikaflex the outside skirt to the canopy and canopy frame, without rivets, I think this would be filled in by the sikaflex. But because I plan to rivet, i think I need something substantial to press against. So i chose a epoxy/flox/cabosil mixture that would stand up to the force of the rivet. (I said fiberglass in the picture, but really it is just epoxy with no glass cloth)

(I am also thinking of trimming my outside skirts down 1/2". My canopy comes down pretty close to the canopy rail, and the extra height just makes the skirt sit away from the canopy glass as shown in my picture.) Decided not to do this.
 
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The yellow area is the gap between the outside edge of the canopy and the side frame. If this is not filled in, then the rivet pulls really hard on the skirt and i think the inside skirt wont be able to keep it in aligned with the fuselage.
This only occurs at the very front because the canopy is on the outside of the front hoop, and there the side bar meets the hoop.

If I was to just sikaflex the outside skirt to the canopy and canopy frame, without rivets, I think this would be filled in by the sikaflex. But because I plan to rivet, i think I need something substantial to press against. So i chose a epoxy/flox/cabosil mixture that would stand up to the force of the rivet. (I said fiberglass in the picture, but really it is just epoxy with no glass cloth)

(I am also thinking of trimming my outside skirts down 1/2". My canopy comes down pretty close to the canopy rail, and the extra height just makes the skirt sit away from the canopy glass as shown in my picture.) Decided not to do this.

I'm following now. I didn't seem to have this issue with mine but of course every welded frame is a bit different so that could be why.
 
Progress and update

So lots of progress this weekend.
I was able to match drill the inner and outer skirts with the help of a friend. I learnt that the outer skirt match drilling to the canopy frame is best done with the canopy on the fuselage, so the curve of the skirt exactly matches the curve of the fuselage.

Also, I am thinking about using my version 2 method to attach the outer skirt to the canopy frame. The main difference is using Pro-seal and not sikaflex between the outer skirt and the frame. The reason is that sikaflex requires too much masking, runs when wet, and will be very hard to control due to the inner skirt being in the way of pulling off the masking. Besides, with the rivets per the plans, I do not need to glue the skirts to the canopy frame, just provide a seal. I will save the sikaflex for when I actually need a strong bond.

Below is the version 2 method.

By the way, my nickname at work was John Change S... Always looking to improve.
 

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So lots of progress this weekend.
I was able to match drill the inner and outer skirts with the help of a friend. I learnt that the outer skirt match drilling to the canopy frame is best done with the canopy on the fuselage, so the curve of the skirt exactly matches the curve of the fuselage.

Also, I am thinking about using my version 2 method to attach the outer skirt to the canopy frame. The main difference is using Pro-seal and not sikaflex between the outer skirt and the frame. The reason is that sikaflex requires too much masking, runs when wet, and will be very hard to control due to the inner skirt being in the way of pulling off the masking. Besides, with the rivets per the plans, I do not need to glue the skirts to the canopy frame, just provide a seal. I will save the sikaflex for when I actually need a strong bond.

Below is the version 2 method.

By the way, my nickname at work was John Change S... Always looking to improve.

John I’m not positive but you may be in untested water with pro seal touching the plexiglass. Done any research to see if this is a problem? I would be very leery of any sealants, glues or solvents touching that plexi. Just a thought
 
Good observation

John I’m not positive but you may be in untested water with pro seal touching the plexiglass. Done any research to see if this is a problem? I would be very leery of any sealants, glues or solvents touching that plexi. Just a thought

Good observation. Let me do some research.
If i just use a little sikaflex to seal the top, that might also work.just can let it drip down below the canopy frame.

Wow, I really dont know what I dont know.
 
Good observation. Let me do some research.
If i just use a little sikaflex to seal the top, that might also work.just can let it drip down below the canopy frame.

Wow, I really dont know what I dont know.

Ya I’m just trying to look out for you, I know how much work goes into them dang canopies! Haha.

As far as I remember the only runs a guy would have to worry about is the primer and cleaner which you could do on the bench. The sika itself was very viscous and wouldn’t run at all. That was 295UV. You using the same stuff? I would look at your old posts but this phone is small haha.
 
Side skirts glued

Sorry for all the posts, but it seems there isn't much postings on the canopy skirts so here is my contribution.

I have the super track
mod from Flyboy's Accessories. This has been a life saver when working the canopy. The mod requires a cut in the aft end of the track so the canopy can roll up. By utilizing only one roller (like Vans original design) the cut in the track allows me to easily take the canopy on and off. This has been invaluable when doing the side skirts.

I riveted the side skirt and inner brace together while the canopy was off the plane, upside down. this worked out well. Then I installed the canopy and the side skirts. First step was to countersink the holes for the MKS319 blind rivets. This was a little deeper than the standard AN-3 rivets. lastly I added the 3M fine line tape to the bare canopy to make a clean edge for top of the Sika Flex. My plan was to keep the sika flex near the top to prevent junk from getting between the canopy and the top of the side skirts. I figured I also need to prime and bond the sikaflex to the canopy and the skirt to prevent separation as the stuff ages.
I was able to install the canopy on the plane. Then add the sika activator and primer to the skirts on the bench, and onto the canopy. Once the required time elapsed, I applied sika to the canopy. Then I slid the skirts onto the canopy; cleco'd all the skirt rivet holes inside and out, and then started riveting the outside skirt from the middle forward and back, to chase out any kinks.
Once everything was riveted, I made the shaped the fillet between the outside of the skirt and the canopy with my finger, pulled off the fine line tape, and quickly left before I could mess up the wet sika.

I still need to add the two rivets on each side that hold the lift angles.
(Wow, I need to clean the shop; not very photogenic;I have 10 days of cure thou...)
 

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Slider Windscreen Cutting Done

I think I have finished the windscreen cutting and fitting. I am happy with the fit. It seems I will only need hold downs in two places, one on each side.

I made a grid system using the rivet lines and one inch spacing to match the left and right sides.

There seems to be little details on how to fit the slider to the top panel. And not a very good picture in the plans or manual. In fact the plans pictures on sheet 41 and 43 are misleading and will cause a ruined windscreen if followed.

I could not find any pictures on the internet or even on VAF that shows the windscreen cut but before the fiberglassing. So here is my contribution. One may use the grid to compare to their windscreen cutting.

This is my first one, so I might be way off base with the fit, so use the data at your own risk.

Next steps:
*Install clips on each side
*Paint glare shield top and center support, probably a light grey
* install center support and egress handles on roll bar
*Sika flex windscreen to plane
*Remove side support clips after sika dries; patch holes and touch up inner glare shield paint
*Fiberglass windscreen and rear skirt
*Remove fiberglass and finish off of plane
*Bond fiberglass skirts to plane using sika


If anyone has any comments or suggestion, i am all ears; I havent done this before
 

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Looking good...keep at it and one day you will look back and say "I'd like to build another airplane".
 
Ha ha, I aint lauighing

Looking good...keep at it and one day you will look back and say "I'd like to build another airplane".

Ha ha, i ain't laughing thou. I miss building. No seriously, I miss building a primary structure where after each hour, one see progress. This fiberglass work is for the birds. (pun intended)

Looking forward to finishing this 9A and getting started on the RV-15.
What's that dear, I think you overheard wrong, I said I'd be flying in 15 weeks...
 
"There seems to be little details on how to fit the slider to the top panel. And not a very good picture in the plans or manual. In fact the plans pictures on sheet 41 and 43 are misleading and will cause a ruined windscreen if followed."

Could you please elaborate on how it should be done? Am about to start on this soon...
 
Left side view

"There seems to be little details on how to fit the slider to the top panel. And not a very good picture in the plans or manual. In fact the plans pictures on sheet 41 and 43 are misleading and will cause a ruined windscreen if followed."

Could you please elaborate on how it should be done? Am about to start on this soon...

The left side view shows a horizontal line. If one interprets this to be the canopy cut line, it will be too short.

In the picture below, to me it appears the canopy trim line is even with the inside glareshield edge. This is not true. In the attached picture, The area circled shows this.

In my picture above showing my windscreen, i traced on the outside the projection of the glare shield line. I chose about 1” overlap for the sikaflex bonding.
 

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Dwg 43

Is that on dwg 43 at section L-L?
For the RV-6, which uses the same parts, there is a little bit different detail (slot in skin for plexi canopy) on dwg sc-2 (see att. )
 

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Not doing that

Is that on dwg 43 at section L-L?
For the RV-6, which uses the same parts, there is a little bit different detail (slot in skin for plexi canopy) on dwg sc-2 (see att. )

I am not doing that. in fact I don't think that will work on the RV7A/9A slider; the inner glare shield is too far away. I would recommend NOT doing that. JMHO.
 
I am not doing that. in fact I don't think that will work on the RV7A/9A slider; the inner glare shield is too far away. I would recommend NOT doing that. JMHO.

To be honest I'm not at all comfortable with that design idea either. It would be tricky to locate the slot in the correct position and if it turns out to be incorrect, then what...

Will be glad when the canopy is done and it turns out OK.
 
Windscreen glued in

I just got the windscreen glued in with sikaflex. What a mess.
First, I made up spacers that go on the roll bar to set the height of the windscreen to match the canopy.
Second, I used 1/2” 3m fine line tape to mark where I wanted the glue on the plane and then matched to the windscreen when in position. I then added fine line tape to each side, and removed the original tape marking the bonding location on both. This left a double line on the windscreen and fuselage defining where the primer and glue would go.
Lastly, I applied activator and primer to canopy and windscreen. Then applied sika to the fuselage (rollbar) and carefully positioned the windscreen on fuselage and clamped.

Once I started breathing again, I pulled off the fine line tape, leaving a nice, clean fillet.

After the sika dries and I get all the stuff out of my hair, I will remove the spacers and fill in the fillet to make it look pretty.

Update: Next time I will remove the tape on the inside, between the windscreen and the glare shield prior to marrying the windscreen to the fuselage/roll bar; it is very difficult to remove once assembled. This means care must be taken in applying the glue to the fuselage and roll bar because the tape will no longer save a messy install.
 

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Test Flight

It seems I am nearing the end, and time to start thinking about test flying.
I was planning on renting a hangar at another airport one hour away for my first flight and to fly off the hours. That plan got shot down. It seems the airport will only lease hangars to planes that have an airworthiness certificate. So I cant get a hangar until I am ready to fly.
Gotta find a plan B.
 
Try contacting the EAA chapter at Cable. You can finish off the airplane there and do Phase 1.
 
Fiberglassing

After taking a few days off, I have started fiberglassing the wind screen fairing. I am following the excellent tips and tricks from the Osh 2021 presentations. I had visions of making a really neat layup, much like the Osh demo, but that went out the window after my first layup. I am using black tint on the first few layers so when looking from the inside thru the canopy, one would see black fiberglass. Of course, it never occurred to me to use a vinyl tape color other than black, so I am finding it hard to se the tape edge when laying down the fiberglass. It is going much slower than expected, and I am burning thru more glass than I planned.

Onward so I get upward.

June EDIT: There is no need to add dye to the fiberglass layers if one is using Sika flex or if one is bonding the fairing onto the plane after it has been molded. The exposed pieces will need to be filled and painted anyways, and the part that show thru the plexiglass will be coated with sikaflex black primer. my parts did not come out perfect, so the black fiberglass bits still need filling, priming and painting.
 

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I collected a bunch of cheap (garage sale) wrenches and bent & grind them to fit in each unique area, each specific to a particular nut. I think I ended up with 6 unique wrenches.
 
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Status

Front windscreen fiberglassing is done. I popped it off to trim and finish. Learned a lot this time, but didnt learn enough to make it worthwhile to redo.
 

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Sanding windscreen fairing

Sanding windscreen fairing. I made a sanding block use my french curve from high school and belt sander. I used aeropoxy and the stuff is pretty hard and sands well. Next step will be to smooth edges and start filling outside to smooth contour.

The sanding block allows me to sandxat an angle and match the desired curve.

I thought I was building a metal airplane.
 

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