Van's Air Force
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Identity this blade pitot tube
- Thread starter jmpratt
- Start date
BoydBirchler
Well Known Member
Piper Arrow used them first. They, I believe, were also used on Piper Lance for part of the auto-extend/ magic hand system.
That type pitot-static mast is used on all the PA-28, 32, and 34 Pipers. The part numbers differ across the Piper line. That one is the main pitot-static mast, not for the gear auto-extend. I have one on my RV-6. I used it for both pitot and static but the static source was incompatible causing my airspeed to be quite far off. I switched over to the standard Van's static locations on the fuselage sides and that fixed the problem. I have been told the bottom angle where the static source is located is different for different airplanes which is why I had the problem. They can be had in heated and unheated versions and the heating elements can be replaced if they are bad. I don't know if they are available new. I just checked online and used ones are going for $400 to $500 or more. If I had it to do over again I would use a standard AN pitot tube or one from Garmin or Dynon which weren't available when I finished my airplane in 2000.
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The pitot tube is used on Piper aircraft. I love the one installed on my RV-6 for the past almost 26-years / 3,500+ flying hours.
When I built my airplane, they could be picked up used for $20 to $40. IIRC, I traded something that was worth $20 for the one installed on my airplane.
The nice thing about the Piper pitot / static tube on RVs is that they do not get bent out of position at air shows with builders looking your airplane over.
At 100 KIAS and above, they are as accurate as any other pitot tube on RVs. Below 100 KIAS, they tend to read on the low side. My RV-6 stalls full flaps at 38 KIAS. Typically my calibrated air speed is off as much as 8 knots below 100 KIAS. Above 100 KIAS, my RV typically is within 1 or 2 knots of other RVs I have flown with.
DO NOT fly the airplane with the tie down ring installed on the same side as the pitot / static tube as the disturbance in the air will cause the air speed to read even lower.
It is possible to replace the heating element or to add a heating element to the Piper blade type pitot / static tube.
When I built my airplane, they could be picked up used for $20 to $40. IIRC, I traded something that was worth $20 for the one installed on my airplane.
The nice thing about the Piper pitot / static tube on RVs is that they do not get bent out of position at air shows with builders looking your airplane over.
At 100 KIAS and above, they are as accurate as any other pitot tube on RVs. Below 100 KIAS, they tend to read on the low side. My RV-6 stalls full flaps at 38 KIAS. Typically my calibrated air speed is off as much as 8 knots below 100 KIAS. Above 100 KIAS, my RV typically is within 1 or 2 knots of other RVs I have flown with.
DO NOT fly the airplane with the tie down ring installed on the same side as the pitot / static tube as the disturbance in the air will cause the air speed to read even lower.
It is possible to replace the heating element or to add a heating element to the Piper blade type pitot / static tube.
Thanks for all the info. Of note, this is the probe on my RV6. It has an angled face (45 degrees) for the "static" hole. The part numbers listed above show a flat face for the static port which leads me to believe that this probe had something to do with AOA sensing. Is the Magic Hands feature mentioned above AOA based?
-Jason
-Jason
andoman
Well Known Member
If the static port on the bottom isn’t used, (or is made available) it can be drilled out to accept a bent 1/8 in. od tube that will function as an AOA differential pressure source.
I adapted mine to a 0-1.5 in. H2O differential pressure gauge.
I believe the angle on the bottom of yours was used to calibrate the airspeed by slightly changing the static pressure.
I adapted mine to a 0-1.5 in. H2O differential pressure gauge.
I believe the angle on the bottom of yours was used to calibrate the airspeed by slightly changing the static pressure.
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That's my plan. Install the stock Vans static source and convert the other hole on the blade to a differential source for AOA.
AZSteve053
Member
Clarification on the 3 holes...
3 holes on these typically:
The front hole is for "impact" air, I believe the hole on the bottom is a drain for moisture in the "static" air to escape which is also connected to the very tiny hole on the back which is for static pressure (easy to miss this hole).
3 holes on these typically:
The front hole is for "impact" air, I believe the hole on the bottom is a drain for moisture in the "static" air to escape which is also connected to the very tiny hole on the back which is for static pressure (easy to miss this hole).
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There's only two holes, one in front and one on the slanted face. Nothing on the back. The back face is a low pressure region, not a proper place for a static port.
LeonardWestermeyer
Member
DIY Blade Pitot/AOA
Just like to share my experience with making a Pitot/AOA blade.
https://n17lw.com/2020/05/14/design-heated-pitot-aoa-probe/
I used a 100 watt heating element from a copier and I added a temperature controller to keep the temperature safe.
The controller has a waterproof face and I mounted it on the access plate under the wing which allows me to set and monitor the temperature of the heating element.
I set the temperature to 60 degrees Celsius (C), and found the surface temperature to stabilize at 45 C. I submerged the probe in ice water and was able to confirm that the surface temperature was maintained above 15 C in this worst case.
I also connected the normally open contact of the relay to a discrete input of the GEA 24 to permit a notification on the G3X Touch when the probe was being heated.
If anyone is interested in this solution feel free to contact me.
https://www.automation24.com/temperature-controller-novus-n321-ntc-12-24vdc-8032103014
DERNORD Cartridge Heater 12V 100W Electric Hot Rod Stainless Steel Heating Element Replacement(Tube Diameter:8mm) https://a.co/d/iqV1qyc
Just like to share my experience with making a Pitot/AOA blade.
https://n17lw.com/2020/05/14/design-heated-pitot-aoa-probe/
I used a 100 watt heating element from a copier and I added a temperature controller to keep the temperature safe.
The controller has a waterproof face and I mounted it on the access plate under the wing which allows me to set and monitor the temperature of the heating element.
I set the temperature to 60 degrees Celsius (C), and found the surface temperature to stabilize at 45 C. I submerged the probe in ice water and was able to confirm that the surface temperature was maintained above 15 C in this worst case.
I also connected the normally open contact of the relay to a discrete input of the GEA 24 to permit a notification on the G3X Touch when the probe was being heated.
If anyone is interested in this solution feel free to contact me.
https://www.automation24.com/temperature-controller-novus-n321-ntc-12-24vdc-8032103014
DERNORD Cartridge Heater 12V 100W Electric Hot Rod Stainless Steel Heating Element Replacement(Tube Diameter:8mm) https://a.co/d/iqV1qyc
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