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SB-00036 REV 2 published (and new SB kits)

Receiver kit today

My question is, being the builder of my -7, the kit came with Cherry Macs rivets...
I have one crack so I'll be putting on the "Repair Doubler" on the front side of the rear spar, So,,, wouldn't it be better to put hard rivets in instead of Cherry Macs?
The kit did not come with AN470AD4-6 hard rivets (I have some)
Just wanted to know how you all feel about this!!!
Thanks
Don
 
My question is, being the builder of my -7, the kit came with Cherry Macs rivets...
I have one crack so I'll be putting on the "Repair Doubler" on the front side of the rear spar, So,,, wouldn't it be better to put hard rivets in instead of Cherry Macs?
The kit did not come with AN470AD4-6 hard rivets (I have some)
Just wanted to know how you all feel about this!!!
Thanks
Don

I guess Vans provided the Cherrymax rivets because of limited access to the fwd side of the spar. Would you be able to "easily" reach inside with a bucking bar to set the alternative solid rivets?
 
I guess Vans provided the Cherrymax rivets because of limited access to the fwd side of the spar. Would you be able to "easily" reach inside with a bucking bar to set the alternative solid rivets?

Yes I have opened up the bottom skin and I think I can buck them, it will be tight though..
But are the Cherry Macs as good as solid rivets?
 
My question is, being the builder of my -7, the kit came with Cherry Macs rivets...
I have one crack so I'll be putting on the "Repair Doubler" on the front side of the rear spar, So,,, wouldn't it be better to put hard rivets in instead of Cherry Macs?
The kit did not come with AN470AD4-6 hard rivets (I have some)
Just wanted to know how you all feel about this!!!
Thanks
Don

If you have to install the forward double because of an existing crack I'd use solid rivets.
 
I’m still building the empennage on an RV-7 and haven’t riveted these hinges yet. I have ordered the SB kit. I know the SB says to install the forward reinforcement only if cracks are present. Would installing them now be prudent and avoid future hassles or could it actually impede detecting cracks in the future. Anyone have thought on this?
 
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If...

If you have to install the forward double because of an existing crack I'd use solid rivets.

If the kit came from Van's with Cherry Max rivets, and that is what they recommend, why would you go with solid rivets? Do you know something that the engineers at Van's do not?
 
I’m still building the empennage on an RV-7 and haven’t riveted these hinges yet. I have ordered the SB kit. I know the SB says to install the forward reinforcement only if cracks are present. Would installing them now be prudent and avoid future hassles or could it actually impede detecting cracks in the future. Anyone have thought on this?

I have the same question as my HS is finished but still sitting on the shelf for installation years from now.
 
If the kit came from Van's with Cherry Max rivets, and that is what they recommend, why would you go with solid rivets? Do you know something that the engineers at Van's do not?

After thinking about the kit with Cherry Macs, the Only reason I see is the ease of installing the Nested Spar Doubler when No cracks are found. I'm inclined to use real rivets. We all have AN470-4 rivets and if done correctly they should be better in my opinion.
 
After thinking about the kit with Cherry Macs, the Only reason I see is the ease of installing the Nested Spar Doubler when No cracks are found. I'm inclined to use real rivets. We all have AN470-4 rivets and if done correctly they should be better in my opinion.

FWIW, Cherry Max rivets are real rivets. Either is acceptable in this application and really neither is "better." If one wishes to use solid rivets, that is perfectly acceptable as long as the correct size/length is used.
 
I’m still building the empennage on an RV-7 and haven’t riveted these hinges yet. I have ordered the SB kit. I know the SB says to install the forward reinforcement only if cracks are present. Would installing them now be prudent and avoid future hassles or could it actually impede detecting cracks in the future. Anyone have thought on this?

If it was me, and I had the rear spar off the HS, I would install the doubler as well.
Would it impede crack detection? Probably, but the likelihood of getting cracks with the doubler installed should be much reduced. Plus Vans says you can fly the aircraft with cracks, as long as the doubler is installed. Albeit that they should be stop drilled.
I think the thing to bear in mind is that getting cracks with the original design was unlikely. Getting cracks after installing 2 additional layers of support structure in the area should be non existent.
 
If the kit came from Van's with Cherry Max rivets, and that is what they recommend, why would you go with solid rivets? Do you know something that the engineers at Van's do not?

I intend to use the cherry max rivets, but I don't have cracks so I don't have to open up the stabilizer to put the forward doubler in. I'm just saying if I already had access to the interior so you can get a bucking bar in I would use solid rivets.
 
Is there a way to inspect the spar on an RV6 without enlargening the tooling hole, using a borescope of thinner diameter? Is the tooling hole 3/16''?

Or, if there isn't, did you have to remove the elevator in order to step drill a larger hole?
 
Is there a way to inspect the spar on an RV6 without enlargening the tooling hole, using a borescope of thinner diameter? Is the tooling hole 3/16''?

Or, if there isn't, did you have to remove the elevator in order to step drill a larger hole?

There are scopes with smaller diameter heads. A friend came over with a $30 scope he got on Amazon which connected to his Phone. It has a shaft you can form/bend, but it was difficult to get a good picture of the rivets since the tooling hole on my 6 is just a little too far aft.

I ultimately drilled out the tooling hole to 3/8 and got good pictures with the Vividia borescope I already had. I did not remove the elevator, but I did use a long 1/4" drive socket extension and socket to hold the step drill bit. And some blue tape on the elevator...
 
Is there a way to inspect the spar on an RV6 without enlargening the tooling hole, using a borescope of thinner diameter? Is the tooling hole 3/16''?

Or, if there isn't, did you have to remove the elevator in order to step drill a larger hole?

The removing of HS skin rivets at the rear spar will be easy to replace and buck, but I think you also need to remove some HS Skin rivets attached to HS ribs. Replacing these rivets seems like it will be difficult to buck if solid rivets are used.

Any thoughts from folks who have done this ?????
 
The removing of HS skin rivets at the rear spar will be easy to replace and buck, but I think you also need to remove some HS Skin rivets attached to HS ribs. Replacing these rivets seems like it will be difficult to buck if solid rivets are used.

Any thoughts from folks who have done this ?????

I installed the kit on my RV-6 by bucking hinge bracket rivets without removing any rivets from a HS rib except the end rib. All the drilled out rivets were easily replaced with a hand squeezer. I first tried using the Cherry Max rivets but had unsatisfactory results. I could have saved time and aggravation by drilling out skin rivets without messing with the Cherry's.
 
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Rv-10 rivet Spar or delay?

RV-10. I'm at the point in the HS build to rivet on the rear spar. Is there any reason to hold tight on completing this operation? i.e. cleco it on and set it into storage?

On the off chance that further data shows up and a revision is necessary to the RV-10 spar? Or is this deemed pretty low based on the engineering data?

I have the elevators and tailcone to work on next...


Thanks!
Brad
 

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On my 14 build I did exactly that. It is clecoed together and sitting in the corner. Will be easy to complete when the time comes, but since I don’t need it now I decided to wait and keep the option to put in the revised parts.
I do expect them to eventually issue revised parts, even for the 10s and 14s.
 
Rivet Size

Hello, after inspection on my RV8, I detected 2 crac on the left support. So I ordered a kit from Van's.
However, I'm going to use solid rivets rather than cherry ones.
Does anyone know what quantity / size / length of solid rivet is needed to apply the SB?
It's to anticipate the work and not leave my RV with its guts in the air while waiting to receive THE rivet I need and don't have....
Thanks
 
No need to remove end rib or lots of skin rivets. Use the slot.

FWIW, I chose to add the doubler even though I did not have spar cracks. I was able to add the doubler WITHOUT removing an end rib or making an access panel. Basically, use the slot as an access port that is created when you separate the skin from the spar flange.

1) Remove the 6 top and 6 bottom skin/flange rivets. Maybe remove one more on the lower side if needed to make the lower slot bigger.

2) Make a folded paper "dust pan" and slide it through the newly created lower slot between the skin and spar flange to catch the rivet tails and swarf. Drill and pop out the rivets that hold the hinge brackets to the spar web. Remove the dustpan and swarf.

1 Paper dust pan resized.jpg
2 Ready to insert resized.jpg

3) Put a couple 18" scrap wires through two top rivet holes in the spar web and tie knots so they don't pull out.

4) Fish the wires out through the lower access slot between the skin and spar flange.

5) Put the wires through the corresponding holes in the doubler. Tie knots in the approx middle of the wires (not at the end).

3 Ready to insert resized.jpg

6) Mark the doubler orientation fore/aft etc.

7) Push the doubler with wires attached through the slot and pull it up onto the front side of the spar with the knotted wires. Cleko in place, cut and pull out the wires.

Inserting resized.jpg
4 Pull tight resized (3).jpg

8) Before match drilling, once again slide the paper "dust pan" through the same slot to catch the swarf, and to catch the doubler for easy removal, paint and deburring.

9) Repeat steps 3,4,5,7 for final assembly and Pull Rivets. Easy Peezy.
 
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