What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Anything left to do before riveting top forward skin (slider)?

rmartingt

Well Known Member
My avionics and engine wiring is basically complete; I have a few interior accessories and lights left to connect. My brake pedals are set up, engine control cables are installed. What I know I have left that I'd like to do befire riveting is:
A couple wire clamps on the firewall
Interior lighting wiring
ELT remote wiring
RH 5V outlet
Basic avionics power-on checks
Paint and final install rollbar
Final install canopy tracks

At that point I think everything on/aft of the firewall will be installed and the forward skin will be ready to rivet. My forward skin has access panels and I've verified I can reach all components and wires between the subpanel and the firewall through them (though it may be awkward).

At this point us there anything left to do before riveting? I'd like to get it on so I can progress to canopy and FWF but I don't want to trap myself either.
 
The only other thing that I wish I would have installed before riveting that top skin is running the fuel tank vent line. It was difficult to install after the fact.
 
I agree with Scott. Vent line is a big one. Heater control hooked up?

Also, just accept the fact that you will be laying awkwardly under your panel at some point. It's unavoidable. haha
 
I built Tuckey tanks, so a different vent solution there. Heater box is hooked up. Panel is fairly easily removable for subpanel access, too.
 
If you are ever thinking of installing the Vans hatches, do it before riveting on the top skin.

Also, if you want to paint the top and bottom of the glare shield it’s much easier to do it on the bench.

Edit:
  • Install any glare shield fans
  • Install GPS puck
  • Install AoA indicator
 
Last edited:
before

Before installing top skin, make sure you can get to ALL the rivets, including the ones on the longeron by the spar bulkheads and the air vents.

Make sure you can re install the avionics you have to remove to get the rivets in the top rib. decide if you are installing the instrument panel before or after the top skin goes on, and plan for those rivets too.

Paint the underside of the glare shield

Get the roll bar brace drilled and fitted.

If you are going to seal up the firewall while installing the top skin, make sure the top cowl hinges are ready to get riveted at the same time. 9I wish i had filled in some of the edges at the top of the firewall with sealant prior to the top skin going on; after the skin was on, the gaps were hard to fill from either the inside or the outside.
 
Last edited:
Any planned firewall or side interior trim treatments should be fitted before you make them inaccessible or awkward to reach later.
If W/S defrost vent holes are planned, cut them now (you would have also done the Big Cut on the canopy to rough fit the W/shield to define the vent hole locations)
Look at the firewall a final time & install any hard point nutplates for any accessories that you might be mounting on it.
Install control cable thru fittings for throttle, mixture, & prop control, alt air, etc.
Have you mounted the voltage regulator, MAP sensor, Shunt, etc. yet? Much easier to do while the lid is off.
 
If you are ever thinking of installing the Vans hatches, do it before riveting on the top skin.
Already installed

Also, if you want to paint the top and bottom of the glare shield it’s much easier to do it on the bench.
Underside is painted; thought was to wait and do the top once I have the windshield mostly fitted but before permanently installing it

  • Install any glare shield fans
  • Install GPS puck
  • Install AoA indicator
Fans and GPS pucks are placed; AOA will be on the display

Before installing top skin, make sure you can get to ALL the rivets, including the ones on the longeron by the spar bulkheads and the air vents.


Make sure you can re install the avionics you have to remove to get the rivets in the top rib. decide if you are installing the instrument panel before or after the top skin goes on, and plan for those rivets too.
Panel is already fitted; I've set it up with a big disconnect bracket to make it relatively easy to pull. Pull the screens, disconnect a couple more things, drop the throttle block, and the whole panel comes out.


Paint the underside of the glare shield

Get the roll bar brace drilled and fitted.
Both done

If you are going to seal up the firewall while installing the top skin, make sure the top cowl hinges are ready to get riveted at the same time. I wish i had filled in some of the edges at the top of the firewall with sealant prior to the top skin going on; after the skin was on, the gaps were hard to fill from either the inside or the outside.
I do plan to seal (I did on the rest) but thanks for the reminder

Any planned firewall or side interior trim treatments should be fitted before you make them inaccessible or awkward to reach later.
Done
If W/S defrost vent holes are planned, cut them now (you would have also done the Big Cut on the canopy to rough fit the W/shield to define the vent hole locations)
Already done
Look at the firewall a final time & install any hard point nutplates for any accessories that you might be mounting on it.
Everything is on with nutplates; I just have a cable clamp or two to install (and their associated nutplates)

Install control cable thru fittings for throttle, mixture, & prop control, alt air, etc.
All those are in. I can stuff the packing material (firesleeve) later.
Have you mounted the voltage regulator, MAP sensor, Shunt, etc. yet? Much easier to do while the lid is off.
Voltage regulator yes, MAP is all forward of firewall, no shunt (Hall effect instead). But those and the ANL fuses for the alternators are there too.

Just remembered, I do need to find a place for the O2 sensor. But the ECU and all its accessories are already there.

Thanks for the double check!
 
I agree with Scott. Vent line is a big one. Heater control hooked up?

Also, just accept the fact that you will be laying awkwardly under your panel at some point. It's unavoidable. haha

At some point...ya, it really isn't that bad to lay under the panel once you get used to it. If you forget something just flip over and slide in really easy actually. I hear a lot about how this is torture and it isn't that bad...

Now mind you I am 5' 4" 125lbs soaking wet but...how bad could it be if you are a foot taller and 100lbs heavier, really...
:)
 
If you are ever thinking of installing the Vans hatches, do it before riveting on the top skin.

[/LIST]

The top skin is bent into a rounded shape, If you drill and rivet the doublers on the bench, the skin won't form a radius in that area. The doubler must be drilled and riveted in the installed top skin. Clecos are fine, but if you do this work on the bench, you are going to get a surprise.

Larry
 
The top skin is bent into a rounded shape, If you drill and rivet the doublers on the bench, the skin won't form a radius in that area. The doubler must be drilled and riveted in the installed top skin. Clecos are fine, but if you do this work on the bench, you are going to get a surprise.

Larry

Apparently not, mine was completed on the bench and came out perfectly.

On the Vans hatch kit, the access holes are on top, between the sup-panel ribs, where it’s very flat.
 
Wait

I’m in the process of finishing the FWF cables and wires. I don’t plan to rivet the fuse top fwd skin until the very last possible step in completing the kit, just prior to paint, unless it needs to be in place for something I’m not aware of. I know I’ll forget something, Murphy’s law.
 
Last edited:
I’m in the process of finishing the FWF cables and wires. I don’t plan to rivet the fuse top fwd skin until the very last possible step in completing the kit, just prior to paint, unless it needs to be in place for something I’m not aware of. I know I’ll forget something, Murphy’s law.

Well if you're building a slider, the top forward skin has to be in place to install the windshield.
 
Didn't put access panels on the top skin, I thought they'd leak... 16 years later, I have a great deal of experience lying in the cockpit upside down to work on the guts of my IFR panel. 6'3" 207lbs, it's not easy, and I have the scars!
 
Access panel is an excellent "adder on the slider". Although I don't have one on my slider RV9. We did install one on an earlier RV7 tip up in 2006 and have used it several times. I regret not installing one on the RV9, and maybe even "BIGGER" !! . I would even consider two access panels, one on either side of the center line.
 
Back
Top