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Spar Caps

ECAM

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I matched drilled the spar caps on the front horizontal stab spar , very happy with my work, until I read the plans again , I thought 5 times was enough.
I have match drilled the flange to #30 size , the plan calls for number #40 size. Now I know the difference between webbing and flange.

I have sent vans support a message , asking them if it is ok to use the #30 size rivet in the flange.

Has anyone else done this , and what was the outcome.
It takes weeks to get replacement parts hoping I can fix this with the larger rivet and of course upsizing the corresponding holes
Cheers
Phil


Sent from my iPad
 

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I’m not sure what vans might say, I would think the countersink for AD3 vs AD4 is less deep, might not have enough depth in the flange, or it will be very close. I’ve not measured that to be 100% sure though. Pic is of my spar with the flange spar cap riveted on the flange, after riveting the web. The second pic is the countersink for the dimple skin, there isn’t much metal left at the bottom, that’s what I’d take a closer look at.
 

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Construction drawing markups

Just something that’s helps me, I use two highlighters, yellow and blue. I highlight yellow the step or sentence I’m working, then when complete go over in blue, which makes green. Helps keep each action checked for me. Welcome to check out my eaa build site, I post a picture of the drawing at each post.
 

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We made the exact same error you did. It cost us $650 total to have a new front spar shipped to us and it took about 3 weeks... painful. We moved on to build the elevators while we waited. No time lost overall.

I wasn't happy with leaving these holes oversized with either oops rivets or AD4 rivets. The spar flange and caps are about the most critical part possible, and I didn't want to be thinking about this every time I put some 'g' on the airplane.

I'm sorry bro, I really do feel your pain. :) Very interested in what the mothership says. Whatever you chose, my advice is to fix it so you never have to think about it again.
 
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I made the same mistake and only realized as a few holes were drilled with #30. I checked with VANS to see if I can use oops rivet in those holes but they disagreed and endup replacing the spar.
My mistake was that I grab the wrong size drill bit as I have two drills loaded and ready, one for #40 and one for the 30. After this mistake I put different color tape on my drill bits so not to make this mistake again.
 
I want to thank everyone who posted on this topic. I had the front spar set up on my table and I was about to start drilling. Checked recent posts during lunch and caught this thread. You saved me from making that mistake! I'll make others but not that one:)
 
This is great to hear, glad our experience helped. I feel like I'm paying it forward for the TON of mistakes I've avoided due to you all and your info.

My best advice to new builders is to make mistakes on small parts that they can fedex instead of freight ship your replacement :D :D :D
 
Thank you for the replies. I spoke to vans, they told me if i have edge clearance of 2D of rivet , build on. I have more then that so I am building on. I did mention my concern that it is a critical part, they told I have nothing to be concerned about. I have spent an enormous amount of time , researching and talking to other builders, been a very informative 3 days. Note to self , read and reread until 100% certain, I did not have that feeling when i started match drilling.

Cheers
Phil
 
There is a history here. Early RV-14 spars did not have enough edge distance. Edge distances were reduced on initial RV-14 parts to reduce weight but for a kit airplane, this philosophy was a poor choice. The weight savings is nill compared to the consequence. Edge distance was added to these parts to be like the older kits. As tech help mentioned check ED and if you have 2D you will be fine.
 
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