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Adel clamp with Tinnerman nuts?

Steve Crewdog

Well Known Member
Patron
Think it's possible? Want to put one in a place where it would be difficult to reach the nut, so I'm thinking.....
 
Personally I wouldn't trust a tinnerman against the tension trying to spring an adel clamp back apart.

don't know your particular application, but is it not possible to install a nut plate?
 
Thanks, Terry. I'm thinking about using an Adel to hold avionics wiring on the back of the instrument panel with very little access, odds are I'll never need to remove the wiring from the clamp but it would be a lot easier to not blindly hold the nut while fighting against the clamp while trying to tighten the screw. Everywhere else I have plenty of access, it's just this one spot...

AN3 bolt is a 10/32 nutplate, right?
 
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Zip tie or safety wire the adel closed, then install screw/adel/nut loosely in place. Clip the tie/safety wire. Finish tightening the screw/nut. Semi-pro tip: use .025 safety wire…..tends to stab the fingers a bit less than .032 wire.
 
Funny that you're talking about this in regard to the instrument panel. I'm just wrapping up that agony.

Yes, an AN3 has 10-32 threads, so it's a #10 nutplate.

Obviously do whatever you think best, but I just used #8 screws for most of my wire bundle adel clamps. Where I thought I might have trouble getting a screwdriver on the heads, I went with allen head screws.

For me, figuring out how to route and secure these wire bundles so that they don't chafe or interfere with something else, and have future servicing in mind has taken a lot longer that the actual wiring.
 

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Thanks, Steve. Good idea with the .025 wire.

Right there with you, Terry. Slapping it together was easy, but a few years ago an old, retired USN avionics tech stopped by my hangar one day and grilled me about how I was going to repair it and I went Ummm..... So I went into Undo, redo, look at it again, undo/redo mode, and maybe a couple years later (like today with the AN3 nutplate) taking something I learned in a different part of the build and transferring it to avionics compartment.

Been working on my wires for a few years now, I'm really looking forward to getting it done but do enjoy the challenge. Sometimes.



You've got a great build log, btw.
 
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Steve, if you have access to install a platenut, then that is the best way to go. If not, maybe you could install a rivnut. I wouldn’t use one of these on a connection that you have to frequently use, but it sounds like you may not need to remove this connection very often, if ever. Next, have you considered using screw mount zip tie to secure the wire bundle to the platenut/rivnut?


https://ziptieszone.com/products/ka...JgFIyhSigwNEcjkjUvMnONufAlNkFI8xoCC8EQAvD_BwE

These are available at various sources, but offer an alternative to securing a wire bundle where overall stress load on the bundle isn’t too great, and it’s very easy to replace if you need to.
 
Thanks Scott, I didn't know those existed. Interesting but I don't think they'd work.

Apologies, I should clarify:

-the thread drift asking about a AN3/10/32 nutplate is for a different area, not part of this thread.

-this is what the thread is regarding, back right side of the panel with the transition from the panel-avionics tray (not pictured).
 

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Steve: Might be worth considering a ClickBond nutplate for that location. Not cheap, but if installation prep work is properly done, they work well.
 
What I Did

Probably not "kosher" - but what I did:

Silver brazed a nut on aft flange.

Edit: I don't think I understood your question - I had a different need. I needed to clamp a longeron flange between the Adel clamp flanges, with no access to the backside.
 

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Steve - I’d consider making a “stud” sticking out from the back of the panel - either with a CLickBond (or homemade) glue on stud, or drill a hole in the panel, put a screw through from the front with a nut on the back, then stack the Adel clamp on top of that with another nut (washers as appropriate, of course). You’ll have a random screw head on the panel, but that can be painted or otherwise disguised using a “decorative” screw head.

The problem with a glue-on is that it is going to be torqued by the load and vibration, and could eventually pull off.

Just another idea for you…..
 
The problem with a glue-on is that it is going to be torqued by the load and vibration, and could eventually pull off.

Paul, as you know, we use Clickbond studs on our spacecraft and they'll withstand launch loads and thermal cycling during decades-long operations, so they're pretty tough. I have them in quite a few places on my -7A, with no issues...although, yes, if you put some oddball side load or something on it, I can imagine it failing years down the line. The key with Clickbonds is *follow the process spec* and make sure the surfaces are prepped properly.

Some homegrown thing with epoxy or whatever, though, I'm not sure I'd trust all that much.
 
Riv-nuts

Here is a heads up for you.
I have known about Riv-nuts for 45 years and hate them.
We used them in the RV industry I was in back then and I will never use them for anything now.
All you have to do is pop them in, real easy and quick. Fast right?
THEN when you go to take out the screw/bolt that is stubborn and the Riv-nut spins in the hole you will be ""cursing""" the day you decided tp put them in.
The builder of my purchased RV-6A used some and I have had to make some real creative solutions for the failed grip in number of locations. Just try to get the nut out of the hole (without damaging the hole) after it spins.
I WILL NEVER USE ONE AGAIN PERIOD!!!!!! Is that clear enough????
I threw the whole Riv-nut kit I had in the trash 35 or so years ago.
Anything, BUT, Riv-nuts.

My three cents worth Art
 
Steve - I’d consider making a “stud” sticking out from the back of the panel - either with a CLickBond (or homemade) glue on stud, or drill a hole in the panel, put a screw through from the front with a nut on the back, then stack the Adel clamp on top of that with another nut (washers as appropriate, of course). You’ll have a random screw head on the panel, but that can be painted or otherwise disguised using a “decorative” screw head.

The problem with a glue-on is that it is going to be torqued by the load and vibration, and could eventually pull off.

Just another idea for you…..

Yes sir, it's another option I am considering, such as in this post: https://vansairforce.net/community/showpost.php?p=1570438&postcount=12

I tried making my own stud for a different spot, but I did not lock the screw in place well enough and it spun, was a real mess to remove. Now I'm thinking I will try it again but with a real clickbond, not a home made one. Sometimes trying to make it cheap ain't worth it.




Paul, as you know, we use Clickbond studs on our spacecraft...

Go on....

I don't suppose you're building something fun in CO, are you???
 
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Just a thought, but no matter how hard you try to think about future access behind the panel there is likely to come the time when you are upside down in the footwell cursing that you did not consider XYZ situation and trying to update or change something with one hand (one handed zip tie install anyone?).

After a few of these events on my -7 I installed the Vans forward access kit and it is night and day better to get behind the panel (slider) and access wiring, pitot static tubing, back of firewall/ground bus etc.

Definitely worth considering IMHO.
Figs
 
Just athought regarding Adel clamps

Make your own for wiring out of .032 aluminum sheared to width. Slip pvc or shrink wrap over it and bend to requirements. About any style tinnerman/nut/thread should hold wires ?
 
Building something fun in Pasadena :)

Ah. Excellent, I'm jealous. I'm geeking out about the baby orca being built in Colorado. Can't wait to hear someone say "Houston, Wheel stop." again.

(mods: apologies, I accept the upcoming slap on the wrist for thread drift.)
 
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Funny that you're talking about this in regard to the instrument panel. I'm just wrapping up that agony.

Yes, an AN3 has 10-32 threads, so it's a #10 nutplate.

Obviously do whatever you think best, but I just used #8 screws for most of my wire bundle adel clamps. Where I thought I might have trouble getting a screwdriver on the heads, I went with allen head screws.

For me, figuring out how to route and secure these wire bundles so that they don't chafe or interfere with something else, and have future servicing in mind has taken a lot longer that the actual wiring.

A-f-men. I know that Better is the enemy of Best, but the more I work on the wiring the more I learn, and the more I learn the more often I see another way I can do something. It used to be 3/4 of the time it was a better idea, now it's down to rarely being better. When it does happen I weigh how much better it would be vs what I've already got in place, and go from there. I still occasionally switch things around, like this morning as I was getting ready to do the final wire tying of this bundle I saw a much better, simpler, cleaner way to organize it and I took an hour to take it apart, comb the wires the way I wanted and put them back, but I but rarely switch things around otherwise now. And taking an hour now to make something better/easier to repair could save several hours later when it breaks.

Steve - I’d consider making a “stud” sticking out from the back of the panel - either with a CLickBond (or homemade) glue on stud, or drill a hole in the panel, put a screw through from the front with a nut on the back, then stack the Adel clamp on top of that with another nut (washers as appropriate, of course). You’ll have a random screw head on the panel, but that can be painted or otherwise disguised using a “decorative” screw head.

The problem with a glue-on is that it is going to be torqued by the load and vibration, and could eventually pull off.

Just another idea for you…..

Thanks Paul, I had seen the Clickbond but held off because of the price, finally ordered a half dozen and will probably order a few more. This is temporary, but it's already looking a lot better. :cheers:
 

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