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Let There be Light!! (Mikey goes LED?)

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
Louise reported last week about how easy the installation of new Whelen strobe/nav lights went on the RV-6 (See http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=111575) . She signed Mikey up for the Beta Test program through Mike Stewart at Team Aerodynamix and we decided to upgrade all of the external lighting and be done with it. We did the Nav/strobe swap in a few hours of work at a friend?s hangar in Houston, and the hardest thing was dealing with a couple of stuck wingtip screws. We had the new LED landing Lights on hand, but ran out of time that day, so I took Mikey to SnF sporting the new tip lights, and brought the Landing Lights to Nevada to install.

I did the swap in about two hours of total time ? not counting some troubleshooting of the wiring that was causing the Taxi (right) light not to work ? old, or new. That turned out to be a bad crimp on a splice under the panel, and I probably sent as much time under there fixing that as I did sitting comfortably in a chair in front of the wings doing the new light installs.
Mike Stewart of Team Aerodynamix is kitting the lights specifically for RV?s and supplies not only the 71865 light assembly, but adapter plates to go right in to the Duckworks mounts on the leading edge of the wing. Unfortunately, N164MS (kit #4) was built before the Duckworks light kits existed, so the leading edge lights are of unknown origin. Fortunately, since they appear to pre-date Duckworks, the designs are similar, and all I had to do was make a new adapter plate using the holes in the kit plates as templates, and changing the shape and size to fit Mikey?s unique configuration. It took longer for me to find my drill bits than to fabricate the plates.

I used a local ground and connected the supply side to the existing wing wiring ? and voila ? let there be light!

The empty cavity where the ancient driving lights were removed:
P1010008.JPG


The plate on the right is supplied by Team Aerodynamix ? the one on the left I fabricated to match our non-standard leading edge mounts:
P1010012.JPG


Feed the wires through the mounting plate and install two screws ? not much more than that!
P1010014.JPG


Four Screws attach the plate to our mounts ? and you?re done!
P1010015.JPG


In the daytime, there appears to be plenty of light.
P1010018.JPG


The lights are nice and bright ? far better than the original halogen driving lights (which were still better than the small HID?s I have in the RV-8). Our RV-3 sports Aerosun 1600?s from AeroLED on each wing, and I haven?t compared them in the dark yet, but the Whelen?s seem to be more than adequate at our unlit desert runway. The AeroLED?s are rated in Lumens (1200+) and the Whelens are rated in Candela (13,000) ? I?ll let others argue the comparison. The AeroLED?s do have built in wig-wag capability that the Whelens do not have, but they Whelens are also considerably cheaper, so perhaps a builder could supply their own circuit for this.

Now I have to decide if it?s time to cut Duckworks holes in the leading edge of the Valkyries wings ? the tip lights have always been just ?adequate? ? but now that we live on an unlighted strip, it might be time to get some real lights out there to supplement the FLIR?.

Paul
 
Great upgrade! I'm leaning toward the Whelen lighting myself.

Question: Could I mount the LED landing light farther forward in the wing, use a smaller cutout in the aluminum leading edge and still get the proper light pattern?
 
The lights are nice and bright ? far better than the original halogen driving lights (which were still better than the small HID?s I have in the RV-8). Our RV-3 sports Aerosun 1600?s from AeroLED on each wing, and I haven?t compared them in the dark yet, but the Whelen?s seem to be more than adequate at our unlit desert runway. The AeroLED?s are rated in Lumens (1200+) and the Whelens are rated in Candela (13,000) ? I?ll let others argue the comparison. The AeroLED?s do have built in wig-wag capability that the Whelens do not have, but they Whelens are also considerably cheaper, so perhaps a builder could supply their own circuit for this.

Paul, as an FYI, the latest version of the Aerosun has a peak candela greater than 30,000.

Dean Wilkinson
 
Sort of off topic question

Paul,

Have you laneded on your unlighted strip at night? How do you approach the runway and ensure that you're lined up? I'd really enjoy reading your account of a night approach and landing, similar to the one you wrote a few years ago about landing at your home strip in Houston.
 
If you want a wig-wag relay module, I found one at seareyspecialist.com for $77. A single switch controls steady burn mode and wig-wag.
 
Last edited:
Paul, as an FYI, the latest version of the Aerosun has a peak candela greater than 30,000.

Dean Wilkinson

Thanks Dean - we are very happy with the Aerosun 1600's on the -3 as well!

Paul,

Have you laneded on your unlighted strip at night? How do you approach the runway and ensure that you're lined up? I'd really enjoy reading your account of a night approach and landing, similar to the one you wrote a few years ago about landing at your home strip in Houston.

Well I haven't landed at Dayton in the dark of a moonless night yet. One of ur neighbors calls his wife to go par ther car a the end of the runway when he's coming in with his Mooney. We, course, with the benefits of experimental glass, have synthetic vision with runway depictions, and I have a FLIR on the RV-8. A little moonlight goes a long way to outlining a runway as well.

Then again, it's light until about 2100 much of the year, and night-time is for sleeping.....;)
 
Be careful with comparisons of lumen output. The only thing you really care about is delivered lumens, that is the amount of light that is actually useable and makes it to the task. The "task" is hard to define in nav lights as surface brightness is a more important measure as is the effective viewing angles. Target is pretty easy to define in a landing light application, but there would need to be some set standards to compare.

Raw lumen data can be very deceiving. It is also typically tested and reported in ideal lab conditions, not in application.
In the commercial world, all tests are done to a standard and the entire fixture, not just the LED, must be tested and verified independently.

So, consider your wing tip LED application. The "fixture" is actually the wing tip with the LED modules mounted in it. In a leading edge application, the "fixture" is the wing. As you can imagine, both would probably perform quite differently, even if they had the same raw lumen output.

Dean - correct me please.
 
Dean - correct me please.

Nothing to correct, raw lumens does not equal fixture lumens due to many factors, including lens efficiency and thermal effects. The lumen numbers we list on our datasheets are fixture lumens, not raw lumens. I could really make our numbers sound impressive if I simply used the LED manufacturer's raw lumen numbers from LEDs at 25C junction temperature!
 
Nothing to correct, raw lumens does not equal fixture lumens due to many factors, including lens efficiency and thermal effects. The lumen numbers we list on our datasheets are fixture lumens, not raw lumens. I could really make our numbers sound impressive if I simply used the LED manufacturer's raw lumen numbers from LEDs at 25C junction temperature!

I seriously doubt allof the "other" manufacturers are doing the same thing. In fact, I know some are not.
Are there any published standards for LED "fixtures" in aircraft applications?
Sorry for the thread drift Paul.
 
You can see some discussion of lumens vs candela on my FAQ. It is a bit of a primer war but there is a reason that the FAA uses candela.

The lights Paul installed are excellent power vs price lights for the rectangle lights folks have that want to easily and inexpensively go to LED with good light output at a low cost and a quality unit. This light kit is a drop in replacement at $145 for the light and kit install which is simple a drop in plate with hardware.

If you want very high output, the Whelen Parmethius PAR36 light is the monster at 36k candela and $230. This is the round light for your leading edge light hole. The price, output, and quality of this light unit speaks for it self.

I have various install kits for the various lights at price points that fit our home builder budgets.

Paul thanks for the great pictures and discussion.
 
another WigWag switch

FYI another WigWag switch option is from these guys Perihelion Design. I have had there switch in my RV6 for 5/6 years and it works great. There service is outstanding. Years out or warranty it stopped working. I contacted them and they sent out a replacement and all they asked was me to return the busted switch. New one has been working great.

The sight is kind of goofy but his wig wag works great.

O here is the link to the "WigWag D" which is what I use - http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagdmnl.htm
 
landing light in mikey

Duckworks mounts on the leading edge of the wing. Unfortunately, N164MS (kit #4) was built before the Duckworks light kits existed, so the leading edge lights are of unknown origin. Fortunately, since they appear to pre-date

Hi Paul, We know where them lights came from I designed them and put them in. Don Wentz came over and took my design and improved on it and made it into a kit. I found the halogen driving lights at NAPA after I got tired of replacing the aircraft landing lights. They landed 164MS at Vernonia after dark lots of times. They served the purpose for many years but glad to see you guys upgrading. Best Mike
 
...Hi Paul, We know where them lights came from I designed them and put them in. Don Wentz came over and took my design and improved on it and made it into a kit. I found the halogen driving lights at NAPA after I got tired of replacing the aircraft landing lights...

Ah, the good-ol'-days of experimental aviation. Original design to solve a problem and upgrade from real airplane parts to parts from the car parts store.
 
If any of you fly far away from any city, you know how dark dark is without all the city radiant light. I flew last year in the dark here by Tahoe, might as well be IMC not being to distinguish the horizon. Paul, I don't know how you would do a night aproach at Dayton, scary....wait, don't you have FLIR?
 
Team Aerodynamix LED upgrade

I installed the LED landing light kit from Team Aerodynamics in my RV6A a couple weeks ago to replace the old Duckworks automotive fog light I was using. The adapter plate fit perfectly and made the upgrade very easy to do, just as the instructions said. The difference in brightness was night and day different! No problem seeing the runway on approach and taxiways were easy to discern once on the ground.
 
Glad your enjoying them. Its a great low cost LED upgrade for those wanting to replace their rectangular leading edge lights from the old days.
 
I'm in the process of upgrading my lights (meaning I have begun looking at my options). I'm curious if most of you have 1 landing and 1 taxi light, or are you doing two landing lights?
 
How does the 71685 Series Whelen LED compare to the Whelen Model 7112510?


Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
 
Rob,
Here is the 7112510.
71125.jpg



And the 71685 Model.
71685.jpg


There are the 2 main differences. The light output on the 7112510 is rated at 30k candela and the 71685 is 12k candela. Also the beam angle is different. The 7112510 is a 10 degree beam pattern which will be more focused and will give more distance. The 71685 is a 30 degree beam pattern so you will not get as much distance.

The 71685 was choosen for the wingtip landing light for its very small form factor and low cost. You would not get the 71125 model into the wingtip without encroaching into the open area of the lens which would then make your NAV/Strobe light not comply with the regs for angular viewing. Simply, any wingtip landing light must stay behind the slant wall of the lens area in order to be legal and safe. And when you do that, space is tight!
 
Thursday I installed the Team Aerodynamix/Whelen wingtip lighting to replace the clown shoes that were the original nav/strobes. Total time was about 4 hours due to my anal installation of the molex pins and connectors. Not only do these replacements look much slicker but the light output seems to be far more than the originals using way less power. I did the replacement mainly due to a failed strobe box on the right side. Next will be the landing and taxi lights. Thanks Mike for a beautiful kit.
 
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