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Its coooooooold here

Coloradoman

I'm New Here
HI RV Friends
My new RV7A was built in Florida for Florida climate but I am in Colorado and the cabin heat totally insufficient. What is the best cabin heating system available on the market or if you have any suggestions please let me know. As it is now it is almost impossible to use the aricraft when it is 0 degrees outside. I appreciate any input!
Thanks/ Coloradoman
 
Lars,

The next time you plan to come to Durango call me at 970-769-9830 and I'll show you my system. I flew to Cortez for breakfast yesterday morning, it was near 0*F at takeoff, and we were warm as toast.

Jim Thornton
 
Lars,

The next time you plan to come to Durango call me at 970-769-9830 and I'll show you my system. I flew to Cortez for breakfast yesterday morning, it was near 0*F at takeoff, and we were warm as toast.

Jim Thornton

Requesting some details for the rest of us Coloradoans.

Thanks,
GH
 
Cooled

Use two heat muffs and connect them together prior to routing into cabin. You will get twice the heat air flow.:)
 
insulation

In my -7A, I've flown in the midwest winter from Illinois to New York regularly, I have the one heat muff supplied in the firewall forward kit. I insulated the cabin sidewalls from the firewall back to the seatback cross-brace with 1/2" foam. The black stuff that Spruce sells. I insulated the floor from the firewall to the wing spar with 3/4" of the same stuff. I have some 3/4" on the aft side of the firewall.

When it's 0 degrees F on the ground, it's typically minus 10 to 15 F at altitude. In those conditions, I fly with my coat on and unzipped. While it's not shirt sleeve temps in the cabin, I'm comfortable enough with almost full cabin heat and my feet are toasty warm. Hands are more than warm enough without gloves.

I have no comparison as I've never flown without the insulation, which I added mainly for noise dampening.

So, my way of handling cold temps in my RV is best summed up in one word.

Insulation!!!

Mike
 
Cabin Heat...

I built my -7A for use in New England winters. I put in two heat boxes, the one Van's recommends, and a second one on the right side of the firewall. They use seperate heat muffs.
I also put in seat heater pads (12VDC) that make a major difference during winter flying.
Now I'm in Florida and don't use them much....

HI RV Friends
My new RV7A was built in Florida for Florida climate but I am in Colorado and the cabin heat totally insufficient. What is the best cabin heating system available on the market or if you have any suggestions please let me know. As it is now it is almost impossible to use the aricraft when it is 0 degrees outside. I appreciate any input!
Thanks/ Coloradoman
 
Three things have worked for me: 1. I get my heat muff inlet air from the curved portion of the baffle underneath the left rear cylinder. Warmer air entering the muff will increase the temperature of the air coming out of it. 2. I changed from the cabin side controlled triangular heat box to the engine side model. The big difference is the scat tube connection on the cabin side. 3. The last change is the scat tube from the firewall to an eyeball mounted on the side of the throttle quadrant. It is mounted slanting upward, so the air can be directed straight back to the rear cockpit or up to me. If I put my bare hand close to the vent I can only leave it there for three to four seconds...the air is that hot. Since making this mod we are now able to fly throughout the winter. We do dress warmly, but then flying in Colorado demands preparation for survival.

Flew a breakfast flight last week with 0*F at T/O. Climbed to 12,500 and flew 30 minutes in comfort. Wish I had Dan Horton's inquisitive mind, so all of this would be quantified, but this has worked for us. Hope this helps.

Jim

Jim
 
I second the Vetterman muffler system you will have heat like a C172 and a quieter plane to boot. I generally have to turn my heat down as it is too much.Mike
 
Try getting some exhaust wrap and warping just the heater muff, nothing else. Of course you will have to remove it every year for the condition inspection.
 
I need to start by saying, "I'm no engineer," but during the building process I received some great coaching. As to the heating system I made the hole at the engine baffling only 3/4" reducing the initial airflow into the heater muff. The rest of the heating installation I just followed the heat muff instructions. Works for the times in winter when we can fly in Seattle. Around here we have to watch out for the ice and no heater helps with that.
YMMV,
 
I have a 3" hole in the back baffle on the passenger side of my -6A. After figuring out there was a whole lot of air rushing through the heat muff, I taped off 1/2 of that hole. If a 3/4" hole works for you, I can try doing that. My heat box is the type that dumps all the air into the rear of the cowling when the heat is turned off. Does anyone think that covering up the exhaust part of the heat box will slow down the air by providing back pressure to the muff? No matter where the door is, the same amount of air passes through the system...some into the cabin; some out.
 
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