What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Under wing NACA duct?

claycookiemonster

Well Known Member
Getting close to buttoning up the wings, but no mention of the NACA cutout under the right wing. Is this a fuselage item? Finishing kit? Anything I can do now to make it easier later? Also, my project came with a "Dual Vent" kit, so since two is clearly better than one, any guidance is appreciated. Cut out the NACA vent on the other wing now?

Might there be a way to get the second vent air to the back seat?
 
Only one underwing NACA vent is used. Right wing.
Other side would collect exhaust.
Bonding the fuselage vent is covered on page 8-67, forward upper fuselage section. You can use the same method.
I don’t think the manual talks about the wing vent. Do it now though, before you close out.
 
Last edited:
My project came with a dual vent kit, with another scoop to go inside the "other" NACA duct and two eyebrow vent openings. All official with parts list. So, someone thought two was possible and helpful. The fuselage kit includes reference to an eyebrow vent in the back seat. Is that intended to come from the fuselage duct?
 
In the “normal” kit the vent for the back seat comes from the wing scoop, and the vent from the front seat comes from the fuselage scoop.

Not familiar with the dual vent kit.
 
Maybe it's just the hardware for the two NACA vents already in the kit? One on the fuselage and one on the wing? Anyone recognize the package?IMG_8984.jpg
 
There's one NACA scoop on the left side of the fuselage...
And one under the right wing...
Hence 2 scoops and 2 vents + some tubing and clamps in the kit
 
Pro-seal works great for attaching the plastic vents to the wing/fuselage skins. I would recommend installing a mesh screen over each vent exit, this will keep any stray bees, wasps or other bugs from getting into the cockpit. I used galvanized screen wire mesh from the aviation aisle at Lowe’s :D
 
Pro-seal works great for attaching the plastic vents to the wing/fuselage skins. I would recommend installing a mesh screen over each vent exit, this will keep any stray bees, wasps or other bugs from getting into the cockpit. I used galvanized screen wire mesh from the aviation aisle at Lowe’s :D

What Karl describes worked very well in my RV-6 for the past 24-years. I also used ProSeal to bond the plastic to the wing of the RV-8 because it worked so well on the RV-6 for 24-years and still going. I used screen on the outlets in the RV-6 but not sure it was galvanized.
 
Dyna vibe prop balancer

2016 RV-8 0320 160 hp. Always had slight vibration in feet in front cockpit at cruise. Did Prop balancing using dyna vibe balancer last week. Aircraft is much smother , viberation 99percent gone. Even feels faster!. Steve at dyna vibe was great to help us. Called us right back 4 times and stayed with us even after business hours. Great service.
 
2016 RV-8 0320 160 hp. Always had slight vibration in feet in front cockpit at cruise. Did Prop balancing using dyna vibe balancer last week. Aircraft is much smother , viberation 99percent gone. Even feels faster!. Steve at dyna vibe was great to help us. Called us right back 4 times and stayed with us even after business hours. Great service.

Fantastic!! What exactly does this have to do with the NACA vents? :confused::confused:
 
Regarding the Vent's bag, yup, that's what I found. The cover page that says Van's Aircraft wasn't there, so I wasn't sure.

Now, you vent installers, a question. Many of you have said you prosealed the internal portion of the vent to the wing skin, but the skin isn't quite flat there. There is a bit of a curve. Did you lay the wing skin flat, or did you try to seal it to the wing while the skin was mounted/installed? Did anyone put a couple rivets there, just to make sure?

Because the plastic receiver fits so flush, there's no way to temporarily clamp it while it cures.
 
Yes, I used Proseal to fix it, but also installed 6 of MS20426A3-4 soft rivets to hold it while curing.

It was a bit difficult to align the bucking bar on some of the rivets, so some of my shop heads were a bit rough, but they kept everything clamped well until cured.

Also difficult to get a good picture of the installation from inside ...
 

Attachments

  • wings_2021-01-02_04a.png
    wings_2021-01-02_04a.png
    359.4 KB · Views: 145
  • wings_2021-01-13_01.png
    wings_2021-01-13_01.png
    320.3 KB · Views: 162
I did mine sitting flat on the bench with no rivets. 6 years flying and about 11 years since installing it, still going strong with zero issues. “Wrapped” the pro seal over the top of the flange. Probably didn’t need to do that but…. Also used SCAT ducting instead of the Vans supplied plastic ducting.
 

Attachments

  • 2D3BC937-F34F-4636-86AB-8B8BD1C0C7CB.jpeg
    2D3BC937-F34F-4636-86AB-8B8BD1C0C7CB.jpeg
    416.9 KB · Views: 154
Rivet/Proseal

I have 3 NACAs on my -4, one on each side of fwd skin and one under wing , all installed with a few soft "A" rivets and proseal same as Dan did. red 2" SCAT for underwing to rear seat stick well vent for PAX.
 
Did you only use the "soft" rivets to hold the plastic scoop in place for curing, and then remove them? Or do they remain in place today?
Did you add some aluminum on the inside to set the shop head against, or just against the plastic?
 
It's better to leave the rivets in place. They do add a little strength to the joint, and if you remove them you then have to fill the holes - maybe with rivets :).

If you use the soft "A" rivets you can form shop heads without damaging the plastic flanges, so no need for adding aluminium doublers inside.
 
Back
Top