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Interior paint prep over previous primer

JDBoston

Well Known Member
Variations on this question have been asked before but I want to confirm before starting. I’m about to paint the interior of my 14, and most of it was primed as I built using rust oleum primer (rattle can). Some of this primer has been on there for a while and has some grease and other stains just from building (rivet gun exhaust, etc).

How would you prep? Scuff existing primer with red scotchbrite a bit and then clean with something else?

Stripping to bare metal seems extreme.

I’m going to most likely final finish with rattle can hammered paint.
 
ALWAYS clean before scuffing, else you just push the debris deeper into the paint. Cleaning will be a bit tougher than normal, as the rattle can enamel will come off with the stronger solvents. I would sand the primer with 220 or 320 for the best grip. Alcohol based wax and grease remover is probably best for this.

Wipe degreaser on with one rag and wipe off with a different, clean rag. Using the same rag with a degreaser just thins out the oils and spreads them around without removing them.

Larry
 
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Paint prep

ALWAYS clean before scuffing, else you just push the debris deeper into the paint. Cleaning will be a bit tougher than normal, as the rattle can enamel will come off with the stronger solvents. I would sand the primer with 220 or 320 for the best grip. Alcohol based wax and grease remover is probably best for this.

Wipe degreaser on with one rag and wipe off with a different, clean rag. Using the same rag with a degreaser just thins out the oils and spreads them around without removing them.

Larry

Larry is right. Must be the name! :D
I would add, if you notice paint coming off, keep working that spot. You don't want to apply fresh paint over loose paint.
 
It depends on how much wiring and equipment are already installed inside your fuselage.

For mine, I scrubbed down the interior fuselage with dishwashing soap plus green pad, rinsed, and let it dry. I used compressed air to clear out the remaining puddles in the corners after the water was drained. I primed and painted after waiting for a couple days to ensure all remaining moisture had evaporated. I did all this while the fuse was in the canoe stage so this process may not work for you.
 
Estes

It must have been some mental transfer when I drove through Estes Park a couple years ago. My son got married at the YMCA in the park there. He lives in Denver.

Larry

You probably drove right past our house (airplane factory). Stop by next time you visit your son.
 
After sanding the primer, is it enough to use air pressure to blow out sanding debris or should it be wiped out (with ?)?
 
Sanding

After sanding the primer, is it enough to use air pressure to blow out sanding debris or should it be wiped out (with ?)?

Depends on sanding method. The goal is an abraded surface free of contaminants. As Larry mentioned, wet sanding with a mild soap solution accomplishes both. A rinse removes the residual. If water cannot be used, I would vacuum instead of using compressed air. The surface will still require a wipe with some sort of solvent to remove contaminants. I use Kirker paint so I use Kirker 600. Wipe with a tack cloth immediately before spraying to pull any particles off the surface.
 
After sanding the primer, is it enough to use air pressure to blow out sanding debris or should it be wiped out (with ?)?

After blowing you will still have cooties on the surface. You might not see them at first but after paint is down you will see them. For pre paint cleaning I like a wax and grease remover. Use a lint free rag. My rag of choice right now is Sontara towels from Axalta. Just prior to spraying, lightly wipe with a new tack rag.
 
Doesn't modern "Coleman fuel" contain additives? I'd worry about fish-eyes or orange peel with that.

As far as I know, it is still the Naphtha based fuel that cleans with no residue. Also great for final cleaning of gas tanks before the pro-seal process.

Carl
 
Blowing off any debris just spreads it around unless you have a good extraction system. Vacuuming will at least remove most of the contaminants. Grease causes paint blemishes so must be removed, by wiping or sanding. Test your wiping solvent on a hidden spot to ensure it doesn't melt the primer!
 
I wiped away all the sanding residue with damp paper towels. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.

Water is nearly free and harmless to handle (dumped the excess water on my grass and it's not dead yet ;) ). Isopropyl alcohol removes water and hydrocarbon based contamination.
 
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