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Rotax not used often, when to pickle?

Pilot135pd

Well Known Member
Recommendations are that Lycomings and Continentals need to be flown every 2 or 3 weeks so they don't start getting internal corrosion especially on camshafts so if you aren't going to fly for more time than that it's recommended you pickle the engine.

Do the Rotax engines suffer from the same malady, or do they also have to be flown every 2 or 3 weeks to avoid internal corrosion or maybe issues with rubber seals drying up?

I had a O-360-a4m that sat for almost 3 years while I restored the T41a and it started up quickly and flew for many hours to the new owner's airport, and many hundreds of hours after that. It doesn't mean there wasn't some thin corrosion on the camshaft or other areas when I started it up.

I'm just curious to know if the Rotax has the same recommendations regarding when an owner should pickle the engine if it's going to sit for a while versus just getting in and going for another flight. Is it 4 weeks, is it 4 months, etc..

I live in East Texas so even though not Arizona, it's also not as humid as Florida.
 
Look on the used market for Van's RV-12's, 6,8,10, 12 years old, with low hours, and you know they didn't pickle the engines.

The Rotax 912 uses a sealed lower crankcase, it would make it almost impossible for moisture to get into the engine. The bores are silica lined aluminum, and do not corrode.

As long as you get the oil temperature over 212F every time you run the engine, moisture shouldn't be a problem, nor corrosion.

If you want, crank the engine through 20 to 30 full rotations by hand to prime and pump the oil to lubricate things, whenever you visit. But it's not necessary.

You should be "burping" the engine before every flight, anyway, to check the oil level.
 
Phillips makes an anti rust 15w50 oil for infrequent use. When I had a seaonal open cockpit biplane, I used it at 10% oil capacity rather than full as a pickling oil. Recently had some downtime on a pair of Lycomings with a fresh oil change, so I bought some Cortec to add to the existing oil. It can fly with the with the mixture as well. I would do one of those options. I don't know the humidity of your location, but for the money - you can't go wrong.
 
As long as you get the oil temperature over 212F every time you run the engine, moisture shouldn't be a problem, nor corrosion.

The temp I've always been quoted is 180F. That is, you don't have to boil the water out. This is from a trusted heavy Rotax-qualified A&P/IA.
 
The temp I've always been quoted is 180F. That is, you don't have to boil the water out. This is from a trusted heavy Rotax-qualified A&P/IA.

Received similar information at the Rotax maintenance course. Explanation was proximity of the temperature sensor vs. true oil hot spot.
 
I defer to the Rotax experts... at some point, somewhere in the engine, the oil needs to get at or over 212F, to drive the moisture out of the oil, not necessarily the spot where the oil sensor is picking up the oil temperature.
 
The Rotax Operator's Manual Chapter 8 describes storage. The cylinders aren't particularly prone to corrosion, so they don't specify a time limit. The "pickling" procedure is simple. From the Lockwood Rotax classes they did recommend draining carb bowls if the engine will sit for more than 3 weeks.
 
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