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K&P reusable oil filter

Actually, I think you're looking for K&P's reusable oil filters. Challenger also makes them. I don't know about the 320, but for KELLI GIRL's IO-360 M1B I used the S15 filter, ordered from http://oilfiltersites.com/product/s15/ . You'll need the 3/4x3/4-16 nipple if your engine requires a spin-on filter with the male end.
 
Hi all. Anyone know the part number for an IO 320 reusable oil filter. TIA.

Pete:

Check what oil filter you have on your IO-320.

Over the years, Lycoming has used different filters / thread size mounts on their engines.

The newer engines have the 3/4-16 thread on the oil filters and older engines like on my airplane use the 13/16-16 thread.

Scroll gave the filter needed for the 3/4-16 thread oil filter. (see above post)

S16 is the filter needed for the 13/16-16 thread oil filter.

You may also need a nipple of the correct thread or need to remove the nipple from an old filter for your installation.
 
If your engine requires the 48110 champion oil filter, then the K&P reusable oil filter you would need is the S-15 (as others have said). I got mine here:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-k-and-p...xGZFoT2EGqrfsZn_3zxVE0b05JxYLVI0aAnYCEALw_wcB

You’ll need the nipple that is on your current champion filter if you use the -110 certified filter. If you use the -108 filter, you won’t need the nipple. ECS also sells the required nipple for $10. You can just remove the nipple from your last champion/tempest filter (double nut it - 3/4-16 nuts), and install it in the S-15. Use a torch to heat up the nipple (after you’ve opened the filter and cut the filter element away for inspection). Clean up the nipple and install it in the new K&P filter with some red locktite on the threads going into the filter. Don’t put locktite on the threads going into the oil filter adapter or engine accessory case oil filter mount. As others have said, your IO-320 may have the smaller oil filter threaded nipple. In that case, use the filter for that application already noted. Everything else would be the same.
 
Pete,
One other thing: You may consider buying two of the internal filter elements. That way you can just quick-change the internal piece, reinstall the whole kit, and go fly. Clean and inspect the dirty element later at your own leisure. It'll cost a bit more but just adds an element of convenience that I enjoy.
For your consideration.
 
Thanks everyone, yes it is the K&P my mistake. Good tip Scroll, the second element. I’ll have to hunt one down in Australia, unfortunately I missed it at Oshkosh this year as the filter wasn’t on my list.
 
Ok, I’ll bite ;)

Clean and inspect the dirty element later at your own leisure

Where’s the benefit? Cleaning the filter takes just 10 minutes, same as was the cutting open/inspection of the good old standard oil filter. Just part of an oil change or CI, which I do at convenience :)
 
Ok, I’ll bite ;)

Where’s the benefit? Cleaning the filter takes just 10 minutes, same as was the cutting open/inspection of the good old standard oil filter. Just part of an oil change or CI, which I do at convenience :)

You are much faster than me, that's for sure! I like to take pictures, let mine soak for a while, then play with the solvent in the bowl to look for particles, spray with some brake cleaner, take some more pictures, have a coffee, and I might even toss it into an ultrasonic cleaner someday when I decide which one to buy.

Also, when I was cutting open paper filters (like an animal!) it sure took longer than 10 mins, and I did it well after the oil change was complete.
 
Cleaning the filter itself is no big deal - drop it into a mason jar with a few inches of gasoline, agitate well, pull it back out, blow it dry with compressed air and reinstall. Then, at your leisure, you can take the gasoline and particles from the filter and run them through a coffee filter or equivalent and examine them.

No need for second filter which will sit on the bench, get dusty/dirty, insects in it, tool impacts, etc.
 
It’s a good idea to have a spare on hand just in case you damage the one you are cleaning. I also have several spare gaskets on hand along with a spare spring for mine.
 
It’s a good idea to have a spare on hand just in case you damage the one you are cleaning. I also have several spare gaskets on hand along with a spare spring for mine.

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just keep a Champion/Tempest paper filter on hand instead?
 
I ordered a new engine which should be shipping soon… I’ll then have a spare engine should I damage the filter element, or the gasket, or the seal :D
 
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just keep a Champion/Tempest paper filter on hand instead?
Well, if you can find a standard filter, it is cheaper than the element, however if you have the K&P set up along with back-up parts, it makes no sense to keep a disposable on the shelf.
 
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I'm glad...

I'm glad you said it...

Yep, it is getting toward the fringe, for sure. A spare airplane would sure solve a lot of problems!
 
Well, if you can find a standard filter, it is cheaper than the element, however if you have the K&P set up along with back-up parts, it makes no sense to keep a disposable on the shelf.

I agree if you already have the parts, and it isn't that much money. I'll personally opt for the $30 filter, since I already have one. That also leaves me me the possibility of "loaning" it to someone in need, and they can replace it later.

Having a $110 spare of something that should never need to be replaced seems foreign to me.
 
Seems to me finding out if the engine is making metal before I just install another filter element and take-off would be prudent, but hey, that's just me.

George
 
I ordered a new engine which should be shipping soon… I’ll then have a spare engine should I damage the filter element, or the gasket, or the seal :D
Really, if you just have a second RV in the hangar you can switch to it when needed...
 
Really, if you just have a second RV in the hangar you can switch to it when needed...

But then I need a second hangar in a different location, if the first hangar is iced shut. And I need another way to get to the second hangar, which means I need a third RV...

A vicious circle.
 
But then I need a second hangar in a different location, if the first hangar is iced shut. And I need another way to get to the second hangar, which means I need a third RV...

A vicious circle.

When I lived and was based in Pennsylvania, I did not want the third RV even though I had room in my hangar for it.

I had a Flame Thrower for the times that the hangar was iced shut. I learned I needed the Flame Thrower to get rid of the ice in front of the hangar my first winter based out of SoCAL.
 
Seems to me finding out if the engine is making metal before I just install another filter element and take-off would be prudent, but hey, that's just me.

George

Pretty much my sentiment. It’s not hard to do. I’m also curious and want to know right then.
Also, if I’m doing my CI, my Ops limits require me to inspect for metal before I sign it off. I bet most Ops limits, if not all, have similar requirements.
It’s also interesting to note that you don’t need to run a filter at all. You still have to inspect for metal “on sump drain plugs and screens”, and should do 25 hour oil changes.
If I recall, when I did the oil change on the RV1, it didn’t have a filter, just a screen. Scott can help me with that memory as I did it with his tools at Vans.
 
If I recall, when I did the oil change on the RV1, it didn’t have a filter, just a screen. Scott can help me with that memory as I did it with his tools at Vans.

That was many years ago now Joh but I believe you are correct.

Standard operating limitations for experimental amateur built specify a maintenance log entry that says the aircraft was inspected in accordance with FAR 43 appendix D.

The sub part relevant to this discussion says -
Inspect Internal engine - for cylinder compression and for metal particles or foreign matter on screens and sump drain plugs. If there is weak cylinder compression, for improper internal condition and improper internal tolerances.

Some might say that inspecting the oil suction screen is enough to meet the requirement since it does specifically state screens. My personal interpretation is that that is just old language from the time. When aircraft engines only had screens and paper media filters were not used yet.
Regardless of your own interpretation, it is obvious that the evaluation of any screen being inspected should be done before the maintenance log entry is made and the aircraft is flown again.
 
Anyone have a source or the specs for the 3/4" nipple required for the S15 when using it in place of the CH48110-1?
 
Anyone have a source or the specs for the 3/4" nipple required for the S15 when using it in place of the CH48110-1?

1. Remove it from your old filter.

2. Most Auto Parts stores have them

3. Amazon

For 2 and 3, make sure that you know the threads on each end that you need.
 
1. Remove it from your old filter.

2. Most Auto Parts stores have them

3. Amazon

For 2 and 3, make sure that you know the threads on each end that you need.

Thanks, I have read of people having troubles removing the nipple from an existing Champion filter. As for option 2 & 3 I was hoping someone who went before me would have the type of thread identified for each end.
 
Torque

Is the 18-20 foot pound torque working well for the S15 or does it make removal hard / damage the X-ring?
 
Is the 18-20 foot pound torque working well for the S15 or does it make removal hard / damage the X-ring?

I just completed my 5th oil change on the S15, and noticed the first sign of damage to the O-ring. I have a couple extra O-rings, you should keep a spare or two - they don't last forever.
 
I just completed my 5th oil change on the S15, and noticed the first sign of damage to the O-ring. I have a couple extra O-rings, you should keep a spare or two - they don't last forever.

You can buy a bag of 25 of them from McMaster for not much money….
 
If you flip it over each time you can double the life before visible damage.

I did get a lifetime supply from McMaster for a few cents each.
 
Provided Quad Ring too big?

Just thought you might want to know. I used the K&P S-15 reusable oil filter on my O-320 and it worked great until I got to the change the Quad Ring. The original spare that came with the filter did not fit. It was just a hair bigger and every time you pushed down on one side it seemed to bounce up on another side in the groove. I went to the extra spare that I had purchased at the same time and same thing happened. Not sure how two replacement Quad Rings somehow came a hair too big. Seemed like it swelled up somehow. These things were stored in my hangar with everything else.

Anyone with the same experience? If so, solutions? Should I put the Quad Rings in the fridge to shrink it?


Update:
I talked to K&P and apparently the error is mine. When the center filter element is reinstalled the process is to push it down and rotate it past the machined stop and release so it pops up into its slot. If it is not rotated far enough, it could hang up on a little step. On a cursory glance it looks okay and can be installed. It may even look okay on the aircraft. But this places the mating surface between filter body and engine a bit too far, allowing the Quad Ring to sqeeze by when oil pressure rises. Tech said the Quad Ring will not swell unless soaked in certain chemical solutions and only after many hours. Installation is just to make sure it is fairly even in the groove with no pronouced high spots. He also said that when installed properly it is physically impossible for the Quad Ring to sqeeze out. He said they've tested it to over a thousand psi. They've even cut the Quad Ring in half and it still held oil pressure although it did leak.

Taking extra care this time, running the engine for about 7 minutes followed by a 15 minutes flight, apparently no issues.

Thanks to K&P, they answered the phone quickly and were very helpful.
 
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Just thought you might want to know. I used the K&P S-15 reusable oil filter on my O-320 and it worked great until I got to the change the Quad Ring. The original spare that came with the filter did not fit. It was just a hair bigger and every time you pushed down on one side it seemed to bounce up on another side in the groove. I went to the extra spare that I had purchased at the same time and same thing happened. Not sure how two replacement Quad Rings somehow came a hair too big. Seemed like it swelled up somehow. These things were stored in my hangar with everything else.

Anyone with the same experience? If so, solutions? Should I put the Quad Rings in the fridge to shrink it?

Seems to be a global phenomena - I got a report of this problem yesterday. I have used the x-oring on my K&P in the past and it worked fine. Perhaps they are swelling due to temp and humidity.
 
I've noticed some of that swelling, but it does seem to lay flat once it is installed and tight against the base. I've not had any problem with them leaking.

Vic
 
I just wanted to let everyone know that I have a similar product for sale on my site. $175 shipped to your door. Search "filter"

I also have oil filter relocation systems. If you need fittings and hose, I can get that as well.
 
I just wanted to let everyone know that I have a similar product for sale on my site. $175 shipped to your door. Search "filter"

I also have oil filter relocation systems. If you need fittings and hose, I can get that as well.

Any more information on your filter? more pictures showing it on the inside, the bottom, construction, testing?

Thanks
Tim
 
Adapter to torque S15?

Just installed a new S15. My oil filter points directly aft toward the firewall recess. While the S15 is shorter than the standard 48108, I still can't get a torque wrench on the K&P supplied filter wrench without the handle running into the cowl attach flanges at the top of the firewall.

Any suggestions for how I can achieve the ~16-18 ft-lbs of torque recommended in the instructions? Any type of adapter available to provide an alternative method of torquing?
(For the old 48108's I just used the hand tight + 3/4 additional turn with the strap wrench method but the S15 filter is a different diameter and o-ring style so I'm not sure that would be the way to go.)

Suggestions appreciated.
 
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I just treated it like a standard oil filter on my car, motorcycle, whatever, which is hand tight. I safety wired it and also put a dab of torque seal on it that I can see from the oil door. I probably have 14 hours with it so far and it hasn't budged.
 
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