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Small rib for rudder?

Jcurry

Well Known Member
Hey Guys,
I have an older 12 (0229). Do the new 12s come with an additional smaller rib that is installed near the bottom of the rudder?
Or does a small rib come with the rudder trim tab kit?
I am asking because I believe I saw this smaller rib on another 12 with a trim tab. I would like to install to stiffen my rudder.
If I'm out in left field let me know.

Thanks
 
Are you referring to the R-01211 Stub Spar installed between the bottom two ribs of the rudder forward of the trim tab attachment point? If so, yes, that's part of the RV-12iS kit I received about 18 months ago and seems to be a standard part of the plans now.

I vaguely recall that part being added to help reinforce the rudder after the trim tab was developed, but I don't know when it was introduced. If that's the part you're asking about, this thread might be somewhat helpful: https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191190
 
Are you referring to the R-01211 Stub Spar installed between the bottom two ribs of the rudder forward of the trim tab attachment point? If so, yes, that's part of the RV-12iS kit I received about 18 months ago and seems to be a standard part of the plans now.

I vaguely recall that part being added to help reinforce the rudder after the trim tab was developed, but I don't know when it was introduced. If that's the part you're asking about, this thread might be somewhat helpful: https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=191190

Thank you! That's what I was thinking about. Looking to add trim tab. Thanks again.
 
Yes.. you'll want to order the stub spar R-01211, a new rudder skin R-01201-1, and 200 LP4-3 rivets. The stub spar is NOT required if you simply want to add a trim tab. But if you're plane is unpainted still, you may want to do this 3-hour projecct:

Drill out the old rivets.. pop as many heads off as you can and don't drill into the spar or ribs.. remove the old skin and use care to preserve the spar/rib assembly. Remove any remaining pop rivet shanks/shop heads. Use care when orienting the stub spar (it is NOT symmetrical). Cleco one side of the new skin to the spar assemby. Cleco the stub spar to the skin. Match drill the two lower ribs with the stub spar (6" #30 drill bit is useful here). Rivet stub spar to the assembly. Rivet the skin to the assembly per KAI.

Here is what happens if your rudder gets hit with a gust (on the ground), which happened to me too. https://youtu.be/uIsxDjRuAos?t=578
 
Yes.. you'll want to order the stub spar R-01211, a new rudder skin R-01201-1, and 200 LP4-3 rivets. The stub spar is NOT required if you simply want to add a trim tab. But if you're plane is unpainted still, you may want to do this 3-hour projecct:

Drill out the old rivets.. pop as many heads off as you can and don't drill into the spar or ribs.. remove the old skin and use care to preserve the spar/rib assembly. Remove any remaining pop rivet shanks/shop heads. Use care when orienting the stub spar (it is NOT symmetrical). Cleco one side of the new skin to the spar assemby. Cleco the stub spar to the skin. Match drill the two lower ribs with the stub spar (6" #30 drill bit is useful here). Rivet stub spar to the assembly. Rivet the skin to the assembly per KAI.

Here is what happens if your rudder gets hit with a gust (on the ground), which happened to me too. https://youtu.be/uIsxDjRuAos?t=578

Thank you Rob!
 
I added the R-01211 stub spar to my already painted rudder. My rudder got hit by a gust and wrinkled the TE at the bottom. I removed the bottom rib then using a spoon messaged the skin to remove the wrinkle. I used a scotch bright pad to clean the inside of the skin. Using Proseal I bonded the rib in place. I did not want to use rivets on my painted skin and figured if it didn't work out I could always go the reskin method. While inside I also bonded a 2" x 1/8" triangle gusset into the trailing edge for future insurance. I felt the rudder as designed (classic) without the rib was strong without the added rib so adding the rib with adhesive wasn't going to compromise strength.
 
I added the R-01211 stub spar to my already painted rudder. My rudder got hit by a gust and wrinkled the TE at the bottom. I removed the bottom rib then using a spoon messaged the skin to remove the wrinkle. I used a scotch bright pad to clean the inside of the skin. Using Proseal I bonded the rib in place. I did not want to use rivets on my painted skin and figured if it didn't work out I could always go the reskin method. While inside I also bonded a 2" x 1/8" triangle gusset into the trailing edge for future insurance. I felt the rudder as designed (classic) without the rib was strong without the added rib so adding the rib with adhesive wasn't going to compromise strength.

Thank you Walt. You've got me thinking. I have a small crease at the bottom TE of my painted rudder. I was thinking about popping it out with dry ice. If I bond, I'll use Loctite AE 9309.
I'll be adding a trim tab too. My ball is usually 1/4 to a 1/2 out.
 
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