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I have one I used on Tempest and Champion filters. I like it; easy way to do proper torque for those. Torques to 17ft/lb. Won't work on the reusable filter fitting but there is plenty of room on a -4 for the torque fitting and wrench.
Yes, this would be the problem for me. I bought the automotive equivalent to the K&N, which doesn't come with the 1" nut machined into the housing.
On the -6, you'd need something to go into the 3/8" square hole on the cup, and give you a 3/8" socket (or whatever matches your torque wrench) offset about 2-3" to one side to clear the body of the filter. No math is required if you align the axis of the crows foot at 90 degrees to the axis of the torque wrench. That removes the effect of the offset.
That's what I use on my 7. Still tight but doable with the Tempest filter. A little more room with the K&N 1002 filters I use now. Be about the same when I start using my reusable.
Ha! I knew that! That is what I have! How do you torque it on now? My mind is always trying to figure out something, sometimes pretty bizarre! This is what I came up with today. Went out to the hangar to see if there was a 3/8" square anything that would adapt. Nope. I remember somewhere in my distant mechanical past using a breaker bar (the only thing that would fit) and using a fish scale (
) to measure the pounds of pull. I have a more sophisticated scale I use to weigh my racing bicycles that measures pounds in 0.1 accuracy. Put at the one foot distance from the center of the breaker bar would give you foot/pounds.....and make everyone around you laugh.....
Is this what you mean by "too big"? I've been holding off installing mine until the results from Dans experiment was published. Just inspected mine. I removed the O-ring that came with the filter and tried O-rings from two separate batches, and both fit as the one in the picture. When I went to put the original O-ring back in same issue. To me it appears would be very easy not to notice if the O-ring popped out of the groove upon installation especially if it had excessive pre-lube applied. These O-rings come with a minimal amount of some sort of lubricant. What helps is after install to "message" the ring around the filter redistributing the slight excess material.yep, this ain't good...
Along my S15 I ordered 10 spare o-rings... used the first o-ring for about 300 hours, and then, upon trying to install one of them spares, noticed that all had too big a diameter, though the height of the H seal was correct.
Luckily I was saved by rv8ch who provided some o-rings of the right size (thanks again Mickey
Some engine stuff is critical. This o-ring, same as the Andair gascolator o-ring, is critical. Requires the right size, some lubrication, a proper torque, and safety wiring.
My unit came with a similar unit specific to the filter.Any chance one of these auto filter wrenches could be used with a 3/8"drive torque wrench? There many sizes and styles to fit auto filters. Just a thought.
The cost is 3 or 4 times what I paid for mine when it first came out.
I wiped the inside of the S15 with the scotch bright pad and made sure there was lots of purple dust left inside the housing
Thanks !!
Same here. This makes it hard to use the low profile Tempest wrench however.
The automotive version comes with one, but the clearance to the firewall (RV-6, O-320, stock firewall) makes it unusable with a conventional torque wrench.
I agree - I wonder if this was one of those X-rings that was slightly to large and got caught under the outer lip of the housing? We’re definitely still learning!
1. How much torque was applied?
Not so sure of that, look at the ELTs they have signed off on.
OK: this thread freaked me out enough (and I don't freak out easily) that I needed to go check my S15 which has been oil-pressurized but the engine has not yet run. (SOON!) I torqued it to 18ft/lb by torque wrench at the time of installation. Pulling the filter: the "O" ring was well-seated and undamaged. It took a little bit of fingernail action to get it out. The inside of the groove and the bottom of the ring were dry. I decided just to replace it (I might keep the old ring around....) and tried several things. This is a new ring, fresh out of the package from the factory. No lube: it slipped in the groove with a VERY slight bulge. I then lubricated both sides with fresh oil. Put it in the filter and the slight bulge was still there but more difficult to get it to stay reduced (medical term): it rose up a bit more easily. Took it out and there was a small amount of oil in the groove. That likely was pressing on the ring causing it to rise up and the ring was lubricated on the sides as well. Cleaned up the groove of oil and the ring and slipped it back into place. There was still a slight raised section that would 'massage' down enough it might have been raised less than a mm. I SLOWLY put the filter on watching all areas (including what I could see with a mirror) and the ring matched up with the engine perfectly as I torqued it down hand-tight. Torque to 17ft/lb (between the recommended 15-18) and it turned less than one inch past 90 degrees marked with hand-tightening. Safety wire.
......Pythagoras turns over in his grave. Yes, the correction is very small, within the noise and variance of the torque wrench, but C^2 = A^2 + B^2.
Going to Challenge Mr. Smith's assumptions/perspective. I've done stupider things.
Sorry, It's 24.19 is smudgy white board marker.
You're right...I failed my thought experiment...
Scott is correct if you are careful to pull on the torque wrench perpendicular to the handle of the wrench. It is difficult to resist the tendency to pull perpendicular to the effective line of action though - line A-C. When you do that, not only is the lever slightly longer, but the force is also slightly larger at the moment the torque wrench 'clicks'. (both by less than 1%, so we really are splitting hairs).
Not often I get to correct a fellow aeronautical engineer, but Pythagoras can sleep easy. The effective length is still 24" if you are pulling perpendicular to the handle of the wrench.
Wow! An amazing treatise on Quad rings! Now I can see why those were chosen over flat or round rings....!
If Robinson helicopter doesn’t require saftey wire on a shaking, vibrating helicopter, I think I’ll be ok.. I’ve never seen a filter come loose.. they are always tighter than when they were put on..
Lots of other places where I wouldn’t mind seeing saftey wire, but aren’t.. Oil hoses, fuel lines.. ect.. but the oil filter? Naaa not needed
Neither have I, the more so the standard filter square seal combination.
That's for sure - very interesting reading!
Yeah, but why NOT? Added safety: is that ever a bad thing? The top cooling ring on mine was easily drilled in multiple, evenly spaced places and is now safetied (is that a word?) the same way I did the 'standard' oil filters. Now I KNOW it ain't agonna come off!
You are correct if in fact you pull perpendicular to the wrench. My observation is that people often don't. They tend to pull perpendicular to the 'line of action'. See post #286. Its a minor point either way.
All good information. It just does not apply to our filters.
