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IO-360-M1B baffle Question

mfleming

Well Known Member
Patron
EDIT: I thought I'd use this thread for my baffle questions since there seem to be a lot of baffling baffles :rolleyes:

The good folks at Van's tech support are off to Oshkosh and I really would like to progress this baffle installation over the weekend....

I'm a little confused on how the forward left inlet ramp support is supposed to work. I didn't't read the description as well as I should and may have got ahead of myself. I trimmed all the hatch area away before fitting the CB-702E/M.

Earlier I adjusted the inlet ramp until it touched the front of the lower cowl, then made the diagonal bend so the rest of the ramp meets the cowl.


My conundrum is that now the inlet ramp CB-1002A is nowhere near touching the CB-702E/M suport.


What am i missing?
 

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Micheal

It looks like the simple solution is to use a new piece of metal to remake the cab-702E and then trim to the correct size.
I always keep scrap bits for this sort of purpose.

Regards

Peter
 
Micheal

It looks like the simple solution is to use a new piece of metal to remake the cab-702E and then trim to the correct size.
I always keep scrap bits for this sort of purpose.

Regards

Peter

So was I supposed to bolt the untrimmed 702E to the engine boss and then slide the 702M up to meet the inlet ramp and then mark and trim?

My piece is trimmed like the drawing but this method makes more sense.
 
702

Something doesn't sound right. Couple questione
Is the bottom cowl fit?
Is the Frankensnorkel fit?
Both have impact on how the front two baffles fit.
My baffle rests right on the brace. Hatched area was cut away as per drawing.
 
Something doesn't sound right. Couple questione
Is the bottom cowl fit?
Is the Frankensnorkel fit?
Both have impact on how the front two baffles fit.
My baffle rests right on the brace. Hatched area was cut away as per drawing.

The snorkel is not fit yet.
The plans and my perusing of builders logs seem to show the port inlet ramp fit to the lower cowl...adjusted so it meets the lower cowl and the diagonal bend made before starting the snorkel. So I was fabricating the 702E/M as one of the last steps before starting the snorkel.
 
The snorkel is not fit yet.
The plans and my perusing of builders logs seem to show the port inlet ramp fit to the lower cowl...adjusted so it meets the lower cowl and the diagonal bend made before starting the snorkel. So I was fabricating the 702E/M as one of the last steps before starting the snorkel.

Correct - adjust the ramp bend to meet the lower cowl inlet BUT DO NOT trim the ramp until after you fit the snorkel (or you will find you no longer have enough ramp to fit the filter). You end up trimming the bottom cowl inlet to get enough room for the filter.

So - an iterative process. You will need to make more than one support clip as you dial this in.

Carl
 
Hi Mike,

The cowling needs to be fit so you can set the forward edge of the baffle ramp to the cowl. You can see from the photo that I kept a good amount of the bracket above the screw to attach an L-angle to the baffle ramp. This is snowflake country; every build is different -- your config will be different. I got rid of the aluminum joggles that are supposed to attach the snorkel to the ramp and built a fiberglass flange instead, so this photo is a bit different than stock FYI.

2019100909425863--773882369193541387-IMG_0046-L.jpg
 
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Correct - adjust the ramp bend to meet the lower cowl inlet BUT DO NOT trim the ramp until after you fit the snorkel (or you will find you no longer have enough ramp to fit the filter). ....SNIP...Carl

I trimmed the forward edge of the ramp while fitting the cowl...¼"?? I guess I'll find out if that was a mistake :confused:
 
So how far can I go with the port intake ramp? Look like I can rivet on the supports that bolt to the engine case and rivet the stiffener with the air dam...
Any suggestions?
 
Baffle floor

I trimmed the forward edge of the ramp while fitting the cowl...¼"?? I guess I'll find out if that was a mistake :confused:

If the firward edge is still even or forward of the inlet, you're fine.
Kinda depends on how you fit the Frankensnorkel. Thr filter ends up pretty close to the edge of the inlet. I used some of the excess to bend a forward lip to help hold the filter.
By the way, don't fight the Frankensnorkel. Cut it in 1/2 about where the starter is and work each end separately. Then just bond the cut with some patches to hold it. Remove and finish.
 
So was I supposed to bolt the untrimmed 702E to the engine boss and then slide the 702M up to meet the inlet ramp and then mark and trim?

My piece is trimmed like the drawing but this method makes more sense.

Michael,

I just finish that part of the baffles install last week. Here's my approach.

I didn't want to over trim and ruin the 702E, so I made a test piece from the thin cardboard you find on that back of a pad of paper. I then placed the 702E on top of the matched cardboard piece so I could drill the hole nicely without getting frayed cardboard fibers. If you drill through the cardboard with wood behind it, you will have a clean hole for the bolt.

I then slowly trimmed down the cardboard to where it was just touching the bottom of the inlet floor and the bolt hole lined up. I always made parallel cuts to the top edge of the 702E. I transferred the cut cardboard shape to the original 702E and everything lined up perfectly. Riveted the 702E to 702M and it mated perfectly to the inlet floor.

I would drill out the rivets of your two pieces and remake the 702E.
 
New Qusestion

When perusing builder logs for the snorkel install on the IO-360-M1B I'm seeing a difference in builds.

Some of the snorkel filter installs show the front of the inlet ramp bent down for added strength.
BUT some of the filter installs show the front of the inlet ramp cut off in front of the filter.

Any ideas about this??

Photos of both methods.
 

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Filter

Either works. The filter seals to the Frankenskorkel. Some add that bend to stiffen the front of the baffle. I did.
20220419_143905.jpg
 
Either works. The filter seals to the Frankenskorkel. Some add that bend to stiffen the front of the baffle. I did.
View attachment 28624

This is the right way!

Carl
(And yep - I did it wrong as I cut the ramp to far back - so I had to invent a new filter holder end)

Great...Just looking, I think I'll have enough front ramp left to make the bend.

EDIT: I can't describe how helpful these threads are in helping get a clear idea on how things are supposed to work. I live in an area with no active builders and the closest RV-7 like mine is at least 5 hours away.
 
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Frankensnorkel

Great...Just looking, I think I'll have enough front ramp left to make the bend.

EDIT: I can't describe how helpful these threads are in helping get a clear idea on how things are supposed to work. I live in an area with no active builders and the closest RV-7 like mine is at least 5 hours away.

Be careful how you trim the filter end of the Frankensnorkel
It's probably not square. With the ramp sloped and bent, the cut is pretty weird. Same issue with fitting the servo end. That's why it's easier to cut it in half.
Feel free to call if I can take photos or help by phone.
Five-1-two-6-three-2-five-1-five zero
 
Be careful how you trim the filter end of the Frankensnorkel
It's probably not square. With the ramp sloped and bent, the cut is pretty weird. Same issue with fitting the servo end. That's why it's easier to cut it in half.
Feel free to call if I can take photos or help by phone.
Five-1-two-6-three-2-five-1-five zero

Thanks Larry. I'm finishing up on the non snorkel baffle stuff right now but will be turning to the fankensnorkel soon.

PS: thanks for all your great help with the windshield/skirt fiberglass. I'm very happy how that turned out.
 
Same, but a little different issue

I stumbled upon this thread while searching for snorkel to baffle installations. I am on round 2 of the CB-1002A with the snorkel fitted. My issue is with fitting it to the cowl inlet. My first iteration I did not leave enough forward edge with the diagonal bend. With my current iteration, I did not bend the diagonal across the floor before cutting as I was thinking this was not necessary but now I have about a 3/4” to 1” gap between the cowl inlet and the baffle floor. Should I add the bend and then add some fiberglass to the snorkel to close the gap?
 

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I stumbled upon this thread while searching for snorkel to baffle installations. I am on round 2 of the CB-1002A with the snorkel fitted. My issue is with fitting it to the cowl inlet. My first iteration I did not leave enough forward edge with the diagonal bend. With my current iteration, I did not bend the diagonal across the floor before cutting as I was thinking this was not necessary but now I have about a 3/4” to 1” gap between the cowl inlet and the baffle floor. Should I add the bend and then add some fiberglass to the snorkel to close the gap?

I think the best way to do this is to install a false/fake/sacrificial front ramp/floor with a HUGE square hole in it (big enough for the snorkel to through it). Install the snorkel in the right place on the fuel injector servo, with the air filter end sticking up through the square hole in the sacraificial front ramp. Adjust the front floor/ramp to meet up with the #2 side wall baffle. Then cut the snorkel down to the desired height.

Now install the production floor/front ramp.
 
I think you trimmed the intake of your snorkel too deeply . The filter should blend into the ramp of the cowl inlet. You can reapply more fiberglass to the upper snorkel and refit the filter again. For my build, I fitted the cowl before cutting the snorkel so that it will fit to the ramp angle of the cowl inlet.

After fitting everything, you will find there is very little clearance between the cowl and the snorkel. Mine has a 1/4 inch clearance
 
Remember the snorkel was designed around the angle valved engine. There does not exist a snorkel designed for the parallel valved engines like the M1B. Some modification usually is required.
 
Many ways to skin this cat. I got a little creative with mine, deviating pretty far from the plans:

1. Put the snorkel on and the lower cowl and measure:



2. Cut the snorkel down so that it was "close" to the aluminum ramp:



3. Filed it down some more until I could exactly fit a sacrificial filter between the snorkel and the ramp:



4. Encased all 4 sides in a fiberglass "flange" right up against the ramp:



5. Exact fit:





Not saying to do it this way, but it's another idea.
 
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Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Thanks Ryan for sharing your solution. I was thinking the same, but wasn’t sure how to go about it. Looking at the pictures gave me some clarifications and ideas to try. May have to use my one and only K&N filter as the sacrificial part. I am fitting the snorkel and baffles to a ECI XIO-360 with tapered fin jugs. One challenge and learning after another.

Thanks again.
 
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