RV10 engine build - Page 3

Blw2 · #21 05-21-2022, 08:38 AM

all the earlier suggestions to let someone else build it reminds me of the time I was re-building a "mud job" shower pan. Lots of folks are telling you to not do it....but they don't 'know' you or your capabilities.

At the time of my shower project I had never done any tile work, and was asking similar how to questions to yours about this engine.
Without exception everyone told me to hire a pro.... but none of these people know me

I used to be like you, do everything repair/mechanical as a DIY....to learn and I guess for pride. I've always had a pretty good mechanical aptitude, research most things thoroughly and give it tons of thought..And especially then when I was younger did pretty much anything and everything DIY. Used to feel strongly that anyone paid to do the job will never do things with the "care" that I would give it. (hence the reason for re-doing the shower!)

I did do the shower pan myself, and safe bet it turned out much better than any pro job would have been....better in terms of never going to leak..... but then a pro job done right wouldn't leak either, so what I did was overkill!

Mine was not better in terms of the looks though. It was ok, but there were things in the structure beneath the tile that I had not considered and so while most of the tile looked good there was a very ugly 'defect' on the wall to shower pan transition.

It was also not better in terms of time.... no doubt.

I was and am glad I did it, but I've also come to realize that many times it's better to do what I'm pro level with, and let other pros do the things that I'm not pro level with...and even still I can learn from them while things get done usually better and much faster.

But my point is this...none of us really know you, know your abilities, your experiences, etc... so it's kinda hard for us to say with any certainty that you'd be better off hiring it out to a pro shop.

Nashpdman · #22 05-22-2022, 09:15 AM

More pics, just because. Everything so far looks great, no visible damage that I have found. Cylinder (chrome) appear to be in good shape. I'm still of the opinion, these engines are simple. The gear system on the rear is much like a Kubota diesel. Poor design on the cylinder hold-down nuts (narrow deck) those are aggravating! I'll be splitting the case this week and getting everything sent off for inspection.

In the pic of the rear gear shafts, neither was safety wired, should they have been, the bolts are drilled.

Thanks!
Mike

rongawer · #23 05-22-2022, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nashpdman

More pics, just because. Everything so far looks great, no visible damage that I have found. Cylinder (chrome) appear to be in good shape. I'm still of the opinion, these engines are simple. The gear system on the rear is much like a Kubota diesel. Poor design on the cylinder hold-down nuts (narrow deck) those are aggravating! I'll be splitting the case this week and getting everything sent off for inspection.

In the pic of the rear gear shafts, neither was safety wired, should they have been, the bolts are drilled.

Thanks!
Mike

Looks like you're having fun and on the way to a rebuild!

BTW, the gear shafts have lock plates in lieu of safety wire, which is Lycoming PN 71646, alternate part AEL71646 (i.e. less expensive). It's perfectly acceptable to use the lock plates and is what is shown in the TIO-540 IPC. The drilled head bolts are what is in the IO-540-D4B5 IPC.

Maybe the previous builder was intending to do the "belt and suspenders" approach and do both, but then realized the lock plates are easier to bend than to do lock wire in that location. However, either method, lock plate or safety wire, is fine for your application.

jcarne · #24 05-22-2022, 10:41 AM

What Ron said. On some Lycoming engines they are now showing safety wire in the parts manual instead of the lockplates. I have always wondered why Lycoming got away from the lockplates in favor of safety wire. Wonder if some tangs have broken off or if it was just a cost saving thing.

Nashpdman · #25 05-27-2022, 08:41 PM

Built a compressor today. Tried to leave plenty of space around the stem to get the keepers out, I think I succeeded. Seems to work well. I didn't have time to make anything for the cylinder to sit on to keep the valves in place yet so I could completely test it.

Nashpdman · #26 05-31-2022, 07:18 PM

Split the case today. Visually everything looked good IMO. What do y'all think about the case, fretting or just stains? I'm sending it Divco for overhaul but though I'd see what the thoughts were.

dmattmul · #27 05-31-2022, 07:44 PM

With an electrical dependent engine, you need to have a robust set-up. Take the time to come up with a schematic that is simple yet has a back-up to keep the fan turning. A primary and essential bus structure probably needed. +1 for a back-up pad mounted alternator. An automotive alternator for the primary bus might be ok. B&C does make nice alternators and external voltage regulators. Good luck with the project. Great group of people here on VAF.

Taltruda · #28 06-01-2022, 06:25 AM

Does Divco offer the O-ring case mod? I would also use this opportunity to throw the chrome cylinders away, or make lamps out of them and see about Lycon CNC ported new cylinders. I don’t know anyone who has had good luck with chrome..

lr172 · #29 06-01-2022, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nashpdman

Split the case today. Visually everything looked good IMO. What do y'all think about the case, fretting or just stains? I'm sending it Divco for overhaul but though I'd see what the thoughts were.

Fretting is pretty common and difficult to spot; Less so if the case already has a couple dowels in it. Divco will shave the case halves a few thou and then line bore the crank journals. This is pretty standard for case overhauls. I believe they will also machine the case for two dowels if they are not there already, to prevent future fretting.

EDIT: looks like yours has dowels. The big issue on the 540 is cracking around the crank journal webs. Divco told me that almost half of the 540 cases that come in have at least one crack in the webs. They use magnetic particle testing to find them and then weld them.

Detailed inspection and clearance measurement of everything is critical on these. ON my 540 case, there was not enough clearance on the prop gov drive gear components and had to take 5 thou off a spacer to make it right. Guessing that Divco found an issue and welded/re-machined in that area and missed the spec'ed clearance. Possible their tolerance specs were incorrect.

Larry

Nashpdman · #30 06-01-2022, 07:31 PM

Talked to Divco today, they were a great help and great source of information. They allowed me to send them some pictures, apparently this case already has the o-ring mod. He said it was good that you could see the honing marks in the journals. May end up not need a complete overhaul if it measures out correctly. It only has 808hrs SMO. It'll be worth sending out there just to get it cleaned up for paint!

"I would also use this opportunity to throw the chrome cylinders away"
Really, not that I wouldn't like some of the Lycon CNC ported cylinders though. I've read chrome use more oil, but the tradeoff was no corrosion, ring wear vs. cylinder wear, and longer break-in. Am I thinking wrong, I intend on reusing them? They appear to be in very good shape.