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Deburring with cloth buffing wheel

H

HighFlying

Member
New builder, just beginning with the VANs toolbox. After match drilling holes for end pieces of the toolbox, I began debuting the holes with a combination of typical demurring tools including a scotchbrite wheel. I then used a cloth buffing wheel for the edges of the aluminum as well as running it over the hole lines and it seems to do a fabulous job smoothing everything out including removing of burrs. Does any of the more seasoned builders have any comments on the practicality of using a buffing wheel for deburring?
 
Buffing wheel

If you are talking about the buffing wheel used to polish jewelry, the main problem is it is not going to last very long. That is not what they are made for. The better option would be to use a ScotchBright wheel. They are expensive but one wheel will probably last you the entire project. Mine is still on the grinder after 25 years and has polished much more than things on my airplane! I would also recommend using a deburring tool to debur EVERY hole, both sides. I'm not sure how the pre-punched holes look but rivets will not set correctly if the holes are not properly deburred. Using the buffing or polishing wheel might be a little too aggressive and take off more of the aluminum than you need to take off.
 
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Wheel

Wheels work ok for small stuff but they won't get into all the holes and corners of parts like ribs. Plus running a big wing skin across a scotch brite wheel is a recipe for a new skin. A cloth buffing wheel may catch and dent a part. However, I do keep one on the opposite side of the grinder. One accidental hit on a grinding wheel will ruin a part. Yep. Trashed a part.
It's tough to find anything that deburrs holes as well as a manual speed deburring tool. Edges and notches are another story. Everyone has a preference. I like a Vixen file for straight edges like skins and a set of fine files for all the corners on parts like ribs.
 
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If you think your scotchbrite wheel is too aggressive, then get the finer version. I did.

There are many processes that will yield a satisfactory edge, but time and cost (and safety) have leaned to the Scotchbrite wheels for general work. Sandpaper, files, edge deburring tools for machinists and even red scotch bride pads will work - with each having an advantage for some parts.

The cloth wheel can snag and fling parts sometimes with body parts attached. Great for polishing, but for overall safety sharp edges are not the best use of the wheel.
 
BillL said:
If you think your scotchbrite wheel is too aggressive, then get the finer version. I did.

There are many processes that will yield a satisfactory edge, but time and cost (and safety) have leaned to the Scotchbrite wheels for general work. Sandpaper, files, edge deburring tools for machinists and even red scotch bride pads will work - with each having an advantage for some parts.

The cloth wheel can snag and fling parts sometimes with body parts attached. Great for polishing, but for overall safety sharp edges are not the best use of the wheel.
Click to expand...

Bill,
I am getting ready for my first kit delivery and ordering items from the Tool list. Which Scotchbrite wheel (number) to get as there are several types when I do a search.

Thanks, Tom
 
YME said:
Bill,
I am getting ready for my first kit delivery and ordering items from the Tool list. Which Scotchbrite wheel (number) to get as there are several types when I do a search.

Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, I think the two I use are 7A (medium) and 7S (fine) The 7A will polish the teeth off a file. The 7S will deburr and polish nicely. I use 7A 10-15% and the 7S for most work. It is difficult to decode the 3M identification. 7 is the density and A/S are hardness. You can search the 3M site an eventually find the full listing.

Machine tool suppliers/sites are the most cost effective (competition)
 
BillL said:
Tom, I think the two I use are 7A (medium) and 7S (fine) The 7A will polish the teeth off a file. The 7S will deburr and polish nicely. I use 7A 10-15% and the 7S for most work. It is difficult to decode the 3M identification. 7 is the density and A/S are hardness. You can search the 3M site an eventually find the full listing.

Machine tool suppliers/sites are the most cost effective (competition)
Click to expand...

Bill,.

Just put those two items in My Cart on Cleveland website. Tried to place order but "check out" was down.

Thanks,
Tom
 
Splitting the difference between a buffing wheel and the solid Scotchbrite wheel, I have had great success with a non-woven Scotchbrite wheel.

I use 3M p/n 03173, and it certainly does not last as long as the solid wheel.

Careful technique makes it last much longer. Most of the wear is the result of feeding too sharp of an edge into the wheel.

It works well for the odd corners at the root of notched flanges.

It is much more ideally suited to scuffing for priming. The ability to do a little bit of final deburring as well simplifies the process.
 
The scotchbrite wheel that I bought from Vans at the start of my build has completed my RV12, and looks like it could do another. Don’t use it as a file, it’s a finishing wheel. I’d recommend buying the one Vans stock. Have it included with your first kit and you won’t even notice you bought it.:D
Cheers DaveH
 
MechaSteve,

I will heed your advice about a"careful technique".

daveyator,

Thanks for the info but I had already ordered the fine and medium wheels from Cleaveland, but thanks for the input.

Tom
 
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