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Brake Pad Rivets

N184DA

Well Known Member
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Anyone s else have this issue:

Changing out my brake pads, like I’ve done countless times before.
Ordered the pads w/rivets through Vans,, again, just like I normally do.

For years I’ve been using the Rapco installation kit. No hammer required, it’s a simple twist-squeeze clamp that allows for fairly precise torque.

In all the years I have been installing the rivets, I rarely had seen any cracks,, (in the rivets). Maybe less than a handful over the years and it was probably a result of me just over squeezing.

Fast forward to today:
Every single rivet in the kit that I used cracked. I went through at least 10, before giving up. I experimented with different pressures and when I was successful at not cracking a rivet, it was obviously loose and under squeezed. Re-squeezing = cracking.

I resorted to an old stock of extra Rapco rivets I had ordered a few years ago from AS&S. They went in easily, no cracking.

I have always used the new rivets from the kit, and never had a problem.

Anyone else?
 
The shop heads of rivets are allowed up to three small cracks if they do not extend inward beyond the crest of the newly formed head and are at least 90 degrees apart.

DBB11EC5-B612-4340-A5B1-FC4315B3FC8D.jpeg
 
I believe there are two rivet lengths included in the Van's brake pad kits. Would need to be at the hangar to give you the dash numbers, just remember to use the shorter of the two lengths. The pressure to install the longer ones will crack the pads.
 
I believe there are two rivet lengths included in the Van's brake pad kits. Would need to be at the hangar to give you the dash numbers, just remember to use the shorter of the two lengths. The pressure to install the longer ones will crack the pads.
Good advice but I was definitely using the short rivets.
 
Try a dab of Jet-A or Kerosene on the tool mandrel. If they still crack then I would say you have some bad rivets.
 
Try a dab of Jet-A or Kerosene on the tool mandrel. If they still crack then I would say you have some bad rivets.
As I mentioned in my original post,
My other older rivet stock set just fine, without lube.
Never had to oil any of these over the years.
I’m going with the bad batch theory.
 
If the rivet cracks, the material seems to be harder ...

The rivet is loaded in shear only during braking.
The rim that you form, keeps it in position.

Had just a few that got a single crack, but seldom.
 
Anyone know why there is such a large difference in price between the cleveland and rapco rivets? Not that it's a lot of money, but concerned there is another difference between them.

rivets.png

Normally I'd just order the Van's kit but I need to get some stuff from ACS anyway and trying optimize shipping/customs. Some talk about different length rivets, and I'd prefer to make sure I have plenty of both in one shipment.
 
Order some extra rivets and try a few more. The Rapco tool we are using really does provide very nice results. Seems like a material issue.
FYI:
The rivets that I have that set without cracking are the Rapco.
I can’t say for sure, but the packaging on the ones that cracked (Vans), indicate Matco.
 
I think you are seeing the difference between brass and steel rivets.
The last ones I got with new linings were steel, thankfully I had also ordered brass rivets.

Brass is much more malleable than steel and is less likely to crack during forming.
 
I think you are seeing the difference between brass and steel rivets.
The last ones I got with new linings were steel, thankfully I had also ordered brass rivets.

Brass is much more malleable than steel and is less likely to crack during forming.
Funny you mention that,,
I had always “assumed” that these were brass. (They certainly “look brassy”)

But after reading your comment, it dawned on me that all of the rivets I used the other day, good & bad, were magnetic.

I know this because the removable jaws on my vise are magnetized and both sets were equally attracted.
 
Why?

Why are we still doing this?
The modern cars have very nice and simple front brake calipers. And the brake pads are dirt cheap, bonded and easily obtainable.

Stop the madness.

I don't know why someone does adapt the Toyota Corolla front disc brake calipers and pads to an RV. Simple, cheap, light, pads readily available, no braking seal leaks when pads wear down, no rivets, etc. (It doesn't have to be a Toyota, pick a common lightweight car.)

Maybe all it takes is a custom caliper that uses the Toyota Corolla Pads???
 
I don't know why someone does adapt the Toyota Corolla front disc brake calipers and pads to an RV. Simple, cheap, light, pads readily available, no braking seal leaks when pads wear down, no rivets, etc. (It doesn't have to be a Toyota, pick a common lightweight car.)

Because they weigh 10 or more times greater than the units we use.
 
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