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IO-540 Engine sag suspected - steps?

WingnutWick

Well Known Member
Hello,

Suspecting engine sag on a new RV-10 purchase with an IO-540. Dealing with this is new to me and I am curious if I should try to troubleshoot first with re-torquing or just replace them? They've been on since before 2007.

If I have to replace them - looking for suggestions on what to replace them with. Can I do this without disconnecting everything from the motor?

Pics attached - thanks!
 

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Pretty sure the vip units for the 540 are symmetrical, so could consider swapping them each front to back. Don’t know about lord or barry.
 
The isolators on the 540 are pretty easy to do, and assuming you can get to the hardware, should not need to disconnect anything. Do the top or bottom in pairs using a hoist or jack to support the front of the engine. Simply let the engine sag a bit to create enough gap to remove the pucks (top) or raise the prop end to open the gap on the bottom.

If you dont want to replace the pucks just yet, you can also spin them 180 and might get a bit more life, but replacement is inevitable.
 
Look see

I would have a tech counselor look thru the engine compartment; that one hose clamp looks like it might not be on properly, but hard to tell from the picture.
 
Shotgun em

Mine looked just like yours with the gap. Don't mess around just replace them all with Lord. I found a better price than Spruce online and spruce matched it. You will get even a lower price from Vans but they won't be Lord brand.

-Marc
 
Lord mounts

For my stock RV-10, I have Lord J-3804-20 mounts. For reference, Lord kit number J-3804-20 includes two isolators, part J3049. Inspection process, thickness and eccentricity limits for J3049 are in this document:

https://files.lord.com/pdf/44/PB6304_ProductsForGeneralAviation.pdf

FYI, A few years ago I considered buying VIP mounts for replacement. I called VIP and asked for their equivalent document if I chose to use their product. Nope. They bought the line from somebody else, they said, and have no documentation on thickness or sag limits. So I buy Lord.

Note that Lord's annual process involves the visual inspection of the mounting for separation, deterioration, excessive sag, cracks, etc. *Only* if that inspection fails do they have you remove the mount and measure thickness/eccentricity.

Lord mounts can be changed without disconnecting the engine. I find it's a 2 man job, using an engine hoist and load leveler (Harbor Freight). On my plane, I have to support the tail while lifting and rocking the engine. I don't like doing it. I won't change a mount unless I have to.
 
SNIP

Lord mounts can be changed without disconnecting the engine. I find it's a 2 man job, using an engine hoist and load leveler (Harbor Freight). On my plane, I have to support the tail while lifting and rocking the engine. I don't like doing it. I won't change a mount unless I have to.

+1 on how to change out the mounts.

If however the mounts themselves look good, you could try putting a big AN970 washer between the engine and the forward side of the engine mount on the bottom two mounts. You may or may not need a longer bolt, and you need to verify that you will have adequate spacing between the cowl and spinner.

Carl
 
You could swap the inboard ones to outboard (outboards to inboards). Also consider lock nuts vs castle nuts.
 
Do you remember where you got them?

Mine looked just like yours with the gap. Don't mess around just replace them all with Lord. I found a better price than Spruce online and spruce matched it. You will get even a lower price from Vans but they won't be Lord brand.

-Marc
 
Thanks for the info and part numbers!

For my stock RV-10, I have Lord J-3804-20 mounts. For reference, Lord kit number J-3804-20 includes two isolators, part J3049. Inspection process, thickness and eccentricity limits for J3049 are in this document:

https://files.lord.com/pdf/44/PB6304_ProductsForGeneralAviation.pdf

FYI, A few years ago I considered buying VIP mounts for replacement. I called VIP and asked for their equivalent document if I chose to use their product. Nope. They bought the line from somebody else, they said, and have no documentation on thickness or sag limits. So I buy Lord.

Note that Lord's annual process involves the visual inspection of the mounting for separation, deterioration, excessive sag, cracks, etc. *Only* if that inspection fails do they have you remove the mount and measure thickness/eccentricity.

Lord mounts can be changed without disconnecting the engine. I find it's a 2 man job, using an engine hoist and load leveler (Harbor Freight). On my plane, I have to support the tail while lifting and rocking the engine. I don't like doing it. I won't change a mount unless I have to.
 
I would have a tech counselor look thru the engine compartment; that one hose clamp looks like it might not be on properly, but hard to tell from the picture.

Second this. That mixture push/pull looks like it’s long overdue for replacement as well. From the photo it appears the entire outer has detached from the end fitting. If so it’s could cause some real trouble.

Good luck.
 
Last picture

Which hose clamp are you referring to?

I was referring to the last picture. For hose clamps, I like to see some of the hose on both sides of the clamp; the one in the picture looks like it is right up against the metal with no visible hose between the clamp and the wall. JMHO
 
Thanks all,

Going to move forward with just replacing these with new Lord ones. I can just replace the bushings vice the bolts and other hardware that isn't included in the bushing kits correct?

Thank you!

Charles
 
Last edited:
Not much other hardware, A bolt, washer, nut and cotter pin. I would replace the cotter pin LOL. If the other hardware is in good condition no reason not to reuse.
 

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Thanks all,

Going to move forward with just replacing these with new Lord ones. I can just replace the bushings vice the bolts and other hardware that isn't included in the bushing kits correct?

Thank you!

Charles

I bought the new hardware kit from Vans, and did everything new. It wasn't that expensive and there was a change in the nuts compared to what I had on my plane.

-Marc
 
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