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Rear Emp Skin off

MaysRV10

Member
Builders

I’m nearly complete with riveting the emp skins. The next step on page 10-20 step 6 is riveting the F1079 bottom skin, no sweat…

Well, it doesn’t fit🙁 I went to cleco it in place and when I wrap it aroundthe skins it’s a 1/16 off from the rivet holes on the opposite skin side. No amount of squeezing the tail is going to get the holes lines up.

When I clecoed everything together and match drilled it was extremely tight but manageable.

I leveled it out and it’s leveled, so no twist.

Maybe it’s the primer on all the parts…

Wondering if I can order a new skin with no holes on one side so I could match drill it.

Anyone encounter this problem and if so how did you handle it.
Thanks
 
Please don't

Wondering if I can order a new skin with no holes on one side so I could match drill it.
Your skin will fit just fine but given the primer and what not, it might not want to conform as easily as it did with a smooth metal to metal surface.
You may need to use a set of ratchet type straps to persuade that skin to line up with the holes in the ribs. Make sure you use some wooden blocks on the trailing edge rear spar so you won't bend the skin. Start inserting clecos at the nose and move rearward. Many times when I encountered a tight fit, I would insert clecos in all the holes and at the end remove a few at the time for riveting.
Those straps can be very useful elsewhere when your project moves along, such as fuselage top skin etc. Four of those should do nicely and cost a whole lot less than a new skin.
Let us know how it goes.
 
I always have a small awl on hand when assembling parts. If holes don't quite align, I carefully try to pull them in with the awl.
Even if the holes align and a rivet fits in, sometimes the rivet is a bit slanted because the skins are ever so slightly shifted and put side pressure on the rivet. This will often be the root cause for a bent-over shop head. Going in with an awl before putting the rivet it avoids that.
 
No drilling…

IMHO: Yes, I’m building an RV-12iS, but it’s still a modern Vans kit.

The quality and accuracy of Vans parts are so good, I feel if I even think about drilling to get something to fit, I’m screwing things up. I never, ever drill…( well maybe once so far).

Some of my goto tools are old drill bits that I’ve rounded/tapered the end of the smooth shaft side, covering the cutting end with duct tape, to protect my hand.
This is a great alignment tool. It may take quit some effort to get those precise holes to align using the tool, but I believe it’s worth it. Every time we “match drill” any of those final sized holes (https://www.vansaircraft.com/2020/07/vans-announces-plan-to-move-to-final-size-holes-on-rv-10-kits/ ) from Vans, we’re changing blueprinted dimensions, and making at least one very precise round hole no longer round,…Not good. I also think that’s a root cause for loose/smoking rivets later, down the road.
 
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Does the skin go on the outside or inside?!

Builders

I’ve been reviewing other posts and I’ve come across two posts now that the builders have installed the aft tail skin on the inside of canoe.

I’ve been trying to install the skin on the outside.
Step 6 reads Rivet the F-1079 Aft Bottom Skin to the F-1011 & -1012 Bulkheads, the F-1073 Side Skins, and to the F-1078 Forward Bottom Skin.

Now I’m second guessing myself, this would explain why I’m having a difficult time lining things up.
showmy.php


What have other builders done? Has the rearward skin been on the outside or inside of the side skins.
 
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I checked your log and you need to change the order in several images, might be all the same skin.
The skins always have to overlap in a way where if the water runs down, it's not entering the seam, rather passes the seam and then skips to the underlying skin, just like a roof tile. Same for front to back: front panel always overlaps a more rearward panel, so water doesn't enter. There are only very few exceptions (elevator counterweight rib skin and one skin in the 4-fold corners when you mate the tailcone).
 
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