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Aluminum windscreen fairing

mburch

Well Known Member
Patron
I decided to take a stab at making an aluminum windscreen fairing instead of using fiberglass. It's still a work in progress, but I'm very pleased with the results so far.

I generally followed the method detailed in the June 1997 RVator article, plus Andy Crabtree's thread, and figured it out as I went. Honestly I was shocked at how well it turned out - my "throwaway" test pieces ended up being nearly perfect the first time. Pretty surprising considering the kinds of three-dimensional compound bends involved. And no sanding required!

I still need to trim them to the final size and make a cover strip to go over the top of the rollbar, but that should be fairly straightforward. My plan is to blind-rivet the fairing pieces to the fuselage, and seal everything up with either Sika or proseal (probably the former, but I haven't decided yet).

Full writeup here: http://www.rv7blog.com/2021/04/10/aluminum-windscreen-fairing/

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Looks Great

Very nice - I like the use of the wood for the template. Will be watching to see the final product.
 
Nice Work!

Matt, That looks good, nice job.

Could you tell me what size blank you needed to make these? Maybe I have enough alum sheet around to give it a try myself.
 
Could you tell me what size blank you needed to make these? Maybe I have enough alum sheet around to give it a try myself.

Good question. You need a sheet approximately 3.5' x 1' for a single half - a little less than twice that to make two, if you nest them. If you had a quarter of a 4'x8' sheet, that would probably be plenty.
 
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Howdy Matt. Very impressed with this fairing! This is exactly what I want to try on my -7.

Can anyone tell me how I can acquire a copy of the 1997 June RVator article?

I am heading over to your blog right now Matt; thanks!
 
Fairing

Thanks for the write up. I may need to give this a try. Looks great!! What part of the northwest by the way?
 
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Nice work Matt!! Hope your forearms have recovered.

Thanks for reviving and re-illustrating this for everyone’s use. The metal fairings really are a great alternative to the fiberglass if you so choose, in my opinion way less work to finish nicely than fiberglass.
 
Nice work Matt!! Hope your forearms have recovered.

Thanks for reviving and re-illustrating this for everyone’s use. The metal fairings really are a great alternative to the fiberglass if you so choose, in my opinion way less work to finish nicely than fiberglass.

Thanks Andy! Yes, the bending process is a little bit of a workout. Adding a handle for more leverage helps, but of course then you have to be careful not to overcook it. I just went slow and it turned out well.

The most impressive-looking part of this is the compound bend, but really the trickiest thing for me was in establishing the right shape for the unbent aluminum parts, as well as getting the correct shape for the jig. It's not rocket science, just fiddly and not immediately intuitively obvious. If Van's provided precut fairing pieces and a full-size drawing to make the jig, worldwide sales of epoxy and fiberglass would plummet overnight. :)
 
Thanks Andy! Yes, the bending process is a little bit of a workout. Adding a handle for more leverage helps, but of course then you have to be careful not to overcook it. I just went slow and it turned out well.

The most impressive-looking part of this is the compound bend, but really the trickiest thing for me was in establishing the right shape for the unbent aluminum parts, as well as getting the correct shape for the jig. It's not rocket science, just fiddly and not immediately intuitively obvious. If Van's provided precut fairing pieces and a full-size drawing to make the jig, worldwide sales of epoxy and fiberglass would plummet overnight. :)

I found using a large piece of paper or lightweight construction paper works well to find the basic shape to transfer to the unbent aluminum. In this case, lay the midpoint of the paper at the windscreen to fuse junction and push it to fit and tape it in place. Cut relief slots etc as needed. Easy to tape multiple pieces of paper to each other to finish the compound curve. Once you have the bend line measure how big you want the fairing on both sides and transfer it to the metal.

For example, to make the aluminum strips above the canopy I placed a piece of heavy paper over the roll bar/plexi and was able to “feel” the existing holes with a cleco. Popped the cleco through the roll bar to hold it in place and mark all the holes. I measured the width I wanted the fairing to be from the base of the clecos and connected the dots to make the basic shape for the fairings. You’ll want to make the metal fairings several inches oversized, I used a hole finder to drill the holes and it took some moving the loose end of the fairing fore/aft to get it to lay nicely against the windscreen and canopy.
 
Most excellent Matt!

I have been compiling data about this process for some time and between you, Crabandy, and the original Docs I am clear on the process now.

Looks great Matt really great!
 
Wow...looks great.

Tell us about that roller tool and how you used it... I have the Avery edge bender that looks like that but without the double rollers.
 
Tell us about that roller tool and how you used it... I have the Avery edge bender that looks like that but without the double rollers.

From my website:

First I made this bending tool, which is nothing more than a normal edge rolling tool with the roller wheels doubled up and a short handle added. Two sets of rollers stacked up allows you to bend a flange 11/16" deep. The handle I made from a scrap of maple.

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I did the same thing. Completed in 2006 and looks like the day I installed it.
 

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One piece??

I'm curious. Has anyone ever made this as a "one-piece" part? Is it too difficult to get to fit? Just wondering.

Thanks!

Jeff
 
I'm curious. Has anyone ever made this as a "one-piece" part? Is it too difficult to get to fit? Just wondering.

Thanks!

Jeff

In the right hands, with the right tools and with some experience I’m sure it’s possible. This weekend warrior could only get it to work in two pieces.
 
I'm curious. Has anyone ever made this as a "one-piece" part? Is it too difficult to get to fit? Just wondering.

It's certainly possible, but it would be way more work. It's not a matter of just doubling the size of the bending jig - you'd have to design a much more elaborate one entirely. Or if you were the manufacturer of the airplane kit and you had access to the 3D files needed to fabricate a factory tool, you could spent many thousands to build yourself a fixture you could use to stamp them out by the dozen. Me, I'm happy with the two-piece solution!
 
Two pieces makes sense

Thanks for the replies on the "one-piece" version. Yeah, I can see how making a one-piece aluminum windshield fairing could quickly become a nightmare. Everything would have to be perfect to work. The two-piece version would allow for small adjustments to get it to fit. Thanks for the comments!!

Jeff
 
I should also point out that a three-piece fairing is certainly possible: a mostly-straight piece across the middle, with a curved piece on each side. I recall that the RV-14A prototype was built this way.

Mine will probably end up being quasi three-piece, as I'll likely make a small splice plate out of .020" to dress up the joint between the two halves. Once it's painted you'll never see it.
 
Wow

I did the same thing. Completed in 2006 and looks like the day I installed it.

Wow, I hate you guys. Well not really. Here I was all set to do some fiberglass work, but I think I like this a lot better. I think I might try this. Both these fairings came out really nice; I think i can do that too!

My plan is to Sikaflex the windscreen on, than make this fairing out of metal. if it doesn't work, I will fiberglass.
A really big thanks for posting
 
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One piece windshield trim

I envy that kind of skill. Beautiful work.
Since I lack the skill and the patience to learn it, I made a one piece fiberglass trim. Reason is, if for any reason the windshield has to be replaced, both can be removed just like an auto windshield. Bonded with Sika.
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Bad Influence

I'm afraid I may have been the one who got Matt started down this road way back in 2015.

I had good success making metal fairings by following the method described in the 27 Years of the RV-ator, "Aluminum Windscreen Fairing". No English wheel needed (even though I have one in the shop).

The only trick is measuring exactly the angle between the upper deck and the windscreen every two inches and bending the lower fairing flange to exactly those same angles.

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The lower fairing is made from 2 pieces of 12" x 36" .025" 2024-T3 alclad. The upper fairing is made from one piece of 12" x 72" .032" 2024-T3 alclad.

Both fairings are bonded to the windscreen with Sikaflex-295i UV adhesive.
 
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Fiberglass hate

I envy that kind of skill. Beautiful work.
Since I lack the skill and the patience to learn it, I made a one piece fiberglass trim. Reason is, if for any reason the windshield has to be replaced, both can be removed just like an auto windshield. Bonded with Sika.
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I am horrible with fiberglass. To me, it seems like an art form. I’ve been in HVAC for almost thirty years. I envy you guys who can make the fiberglass fairings. I’m going to give the metal fairing a shot, if it doesn’t pan out, I will muddle my way through the fiberglass.
 
Making progress... I turned a six-foot sheet of 0.040" into a single-piece fairing for the top of the rollbar. I got as far as getting it fitted and the aft edge trimmed to final size, before I ran out of weekend. I'm pretty happy with the fit so far - I was able to get a fairly consistent gap all the way around. Next step will be to trim the remaining edges of all this aluminum.

Full build log: http://www.rv7blog.com/2021/04/25/aluminum-rollbar-fairing/

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Looks great Matt! I am curious, is the piece that goes over the roll bar tube clecoed through the plexi and the roll bar or just the plexi?
 
I am curious, is the piece that goes over the roll bar tube clecoed through the plexi and the roll bar or just the plexi?

It's clecoed through the plexiglass into the rollbar. I already had pilot holes drilled in the windscreen and rollbar, so I just reverse-match-drilled them into the new fairing (not too bad of a job with careful measuring!)
 
Hi Matt-Looks great!

Do you have any plans to provide any reinforcement to the piece over the roll bar? It's very subject to damage from climbing in and out of the plane--especially from being pushed down on.

Since I did mine with fiberglass (mostly just because I lack your metal working skills), I was able to sandwich a layer or two of either kevlar or carbon fiber (can't remember which) between layers of fiberglass making it super stiff and much less susceptible to damage.

Maybe it's just something you'll be extra cautious about when taking passengers?

Again, your whole fairing looks fantastic! Good job!

Steve
 
Do you have any plans to provide any reinforcement to the piece over the roll bar?

Good question Steve. I'm following in Andy's footsteps and using the same .040" thick material over the rollbar that he used. It's fairly stout, although as you say it won't stand up to someone really bearing down on it. No other reinforcement, so I'll just have to brief passengers appropriately.
 
Good question Steve. I'm following in Andy's footsteps and using the same .040" thick material over the rollbar that he used. It's fairly stout, although as you say it won't stand up to someone really bearing down on it. No other reinforcement, so I'll just have to brief passengers appropriately.

Yes. A thorough passenger brief and demonstration is a must with any RV. Even fellow RV pilots that are used to a tip up or a slider.

The .040 over the windscreen/rollbar is pretty robust, I would only fear it provides enough leverage to possible pinch/crack the rear windscreen edge or tweak the screws enough to cause a crack. It would take a lot.
The forward edge of the sliding canopy is much more frail and also a favorite “grab handle” of passengers.
 
A thorough passenger brief and demonstration is a must with any RV. Even fellow RV pilots that are used to a tip up or a slider.

Yup, no different than the time a guy tried to close my tip-up canopy for me and broke it. :mad:

I still have the option to trim more off of the rollbar cover, although I need to keep some amount of overhang - at least at the bottom corners, where I need it to help fair in the forward edges of the canopy skirt.
 
I searched high and low for something with the right combination of stiffness and flexibility that I could use to mark a smooth curve to trim the top of the windscreen base fairing. I happened to stumble on the notion of using a piece of exterior door weatherstrip and it worked perfectly. The kind that's made to fit into a kerf slot in a door jamb has a hard rubber edge that makes it easy to mark your trim line, after you establish the shape by taping it down at a few key locations:

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After trimming to the line, I'm very happy with this result:

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Laying out the trim line for the front of the rollbar fairing:

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Happy with this too:

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Still some work to do at the bottom corners along the longerons, but otherwise I think I have everything trimmed to its final shape. I need to order some Sika stuff soon...

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Looking really great! Your work will help me so much when I get to this point!
Interested in seeing where and how you rivet that lower rear section of the fairing.

Great work!
 
Pretty amazing work. A true craftsman!
Makes me want to try metal.

Looking really great! Your work will help me so much when I get to this point!
Interested in seeing where and how you rivet that lower rear section of the fairing.

Thanks guys - I am holding off on the celebrations until I get it all finished, then it will be Miller Time.

My current plan is to add one more screw hole on each side to secure the aft edge of the lower fairings, and rivet to the longerons only. We'll see how that goes...

mcb
 
I added an extra screw hole on each side to secure the top corner of the lower fairing, drilled the rivet holes in the longeron, and trimmed away the excess material:

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The resulting shape is rather rakish looking, if I do say so myself:

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(nb: these photos show hardware-store screws being used for temporary fitting)

Next: Final deburring/countersinking/dimpling, and then I guess it's Sika time...
 
I bet you're glad you decided to go ahead with it now Matt.Turned out really nice and wasn't all that hard to do was it. Excellent job. Well done :)
 
Wow

....and I’m not easily impressed but that fairing is simply a work of art...Please don’t paint it....it’s beauty needs to be shown!

Regards,
 
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