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Champion Oil filter - CH48101-1

Oil cooler, then to the filter.



My notes say 12~14, but I don't recall a Lycoming source for the information. Multiple non-OEM sources (Aviation Consumer, Tempest, etc) say the Lycoming adapter is in that ballpark. I think Donaldson makes the adapter for Lycoming, but I can't find specs at their site. Given all the STC'd non-bypass adapters out there for Lycoming, all of which would use 108/109 filter, I think we're pretty safe assuming the filter bypass delta is the same for all.

I did find this Tempest note on my hard drive. Worth a read. Here's a web link:

https://tempestplus.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Alaska-Cold-Starts-0613.pdf

Thanks, Dan, I did not see that in the Tempest docs.

That opening pressure is what I figured it might be, maybe less since Tempest claims their filters meet the Continental spec implying it is higher. Regardless, the attached doc is also good for the library. It is a good glimpse into the reason for tough test and design standards in ARP1400.

https://www.championaerospace.com/w...l-Filters-vs-Tempest-Competitive-Analysis.pdf

This Champion doc shows the pressure drop vs capacity. Hot oil test, so cold starts and log oil change intervals apply. Also, we should note that the efficiency testing allows caking on the element to improve efficiency. Obviously at the cost of pressure drop. No free lunch, and enlightenment for users that a new filter is not as good as an old one in it's filtration effectiveness.

Also, the temporal changes of the oil system yield a filter that is better at the end of life, but the oil increases in contaminants from clean (0 hr) to a plateau somewhere down the road. Diesels reach that plateau in 50 hrs, but they have larger sump capacity. No clue what the Lycs or if it has ever been documented.
 
I watched a couple of the filter videos posted on the PC Racing site.
One of the videos mentioned the o-ring having square sides instead of round sides. Does the S15 have a square sided o-ring? I think it was the same video stated the filter having a relief valve.
A question for the PC Racing site filter would be does their offering accept a 3/4 - 16 nipple?
 
I watched a couple of the filter videos posted on the PC Racing site.
One of the videos mentioned the o-ring having square sides instead of round sides. Does the S15 have a square sided o-ring? I think it was the same video stated the filter having a relief valve.
A question for the PC Racing site filter would be does their offering accept a 3/4 - 16 nipple?

The K&P filter appears to have the square o-ring as well. The PCS4C has 3/4x16 threads, same as the K&P S15.
 
From the photos and the description it sure looks the same - either a clone or they got K&P to make the filters for them under a private label. Perhaps call them and ask who makes the filter?

I just sent PC Racing an email. I'll let you know what they say.
 
I noticed the wording specified in the cleaning instructions is identical to that for the S15 that I received. Sure looking like this is an equivalent product.
 
So just to add to the database…. I have been researching these filters for a magazine article, and it does appear that all of the units that look the same are being manufactured by K&P - but not all to the same specifications. The K&P web site FAQ has some good information on the flow rate and particle size of their filters - but they only apply to the ones that they sell under their name. They quote 35 microns as their filter size. For reference, Tempest quotes 40 microns for their spin-on (paper) filters on their web site.

I had a wonderful chat with Linda Rocco, President of Challenger yesterday, who told me not to use anything from the K&P web site with regards to the Challenger filters - even though K&P makes the filters for Challenger. That is because Challenger has the filters made to THEIR specifications - and their spec is to use 22 micro cloth in the filter elements. Note that the Challengers are STC’ed for use in certified aircraft - but also note that the spec numbers for the K&P-branded units is still better than the numbers quoted for paper elements.

Flow rates quoted for K&P’s are far superior to paper filters BTW….

I received my four filters from ECS last week, and they are K&P-branded, with the special wrench “cup” for R&R. Drilling safety wire holes was simple and quick. It would be nicer to have the housings with the machined 1” hex nut on the end - it looks like the ones from PC Racing are being machined that way, the same as Challenger. But since it is clear that K&P will make filters to someone else’s specs, it is not obvious what specs are being used for the PC Racing units, until someone buys one and we see what label it has.

The good thing is that you can buy replacement filter elements from Challenger if you REALLY feel the need to have 22 micron filtering.

There’s the data dump for you!

Paul
 
Good gouge!

Great thread, great info!

Paul, thanks for the deeper dive into the specs of these things, much appreciated.

Timely, too, as I got back from 3 weeks of travel which put me at ~50 hours on the oil. Had ordered the K&P S15 before I'd left and it was here when I got home.

As others have said, it looks well-made and I like the smaller form factor vs the Tempests I've been using...to say nothing of the fact that the Tempests have become hard to source.

Have 2 new autos and strongly considering converting over to these on their next oil changes.
 
Filters

The good thing is that you can buy replacement filter elements from Challenger if you REALLY feel the need to have 22 micron filtering.

I received my K&P S15 filter the day I arrived home from OSH. VERY impressed with the construction and engineering. It is just an amazing-looking unit. Looks aren't everything but I figure if they are paying that much attention to those details, the unit will likely function as advertised. They have a huge following in auto racing circles...

35 microns is fine with me! Not sure what true benefit 22 micron would offer.....besides smaller filtering ability. Beats paper any day.....speaking of tractor technology..... I love the fins which should help cool the oil, not that I have problems with high oil temperatures. But I'll be prepared for global warming.....;)

Safety wiring holes easily drilled and conform with the edges the R&R tool grabs onto. Plenty of room to get a torque wrench behind it even with the "tool" on there. Does one HAVE to safety wire it in place? I always have; no reason not to in my mind..... What was Lycoming thinking with that tiny little hole on the case to secure the safety wire? Not sure how long that went before it pulled through but it wasn't long....:rolleyes:

FWIW, the C-90 on my J-3 Cub has a filter screen. Micron filtration ability was WAY in the future when this engine was made. Oil changes at 25 hours and screen cleaning every other change and annual. I have about 2400 hours in the Cub with half of that with the C-90-8. C-65-8 with a screen before that and was going strong when swapped out. If the C-90 goes another 1200 hours with just the screen, I'm OK with that....:eek:
 
I just got an email back from PC Racing regarding their PCS4C Oil Filter. They are made in the USA and they also supply several other resellers with filter units. Just waiting to hear back what PSI their bypass valve operates at.
 
Thanks for more info & request

So just to add to the database…. I have been researching these filters for a magazine article,

Flow rates quoted for K&P’s are far superior to paper filters BTW….


Paul

Paul, since you will be getting all the bases covered for an article, can you include any tests that have been run for collapse of the element at high capacities. I have seen posted a collapsed filter on another location and it was being operated within the change/clean recommendation. Anecdotal information, no numbers, so can not quantify to compare with the Tempest or Champion.

I could not find any claims of either filter site saying that ISO, SAE-APR test protocols were used to quantify/qualify the products.
 
I'm still not sure what we are saying is the "equivalent" to a 110-1. Is it the S15 with or without the bypass? Also, do we like/want the 3/4x16 x 3/4x16 nipple that K&P stocks?

The ECS website says theirs has a progressive rate bypass. I assume this is the same as ordering with the bypass feature directly from K&P? Paul, you have four fresh from ECS, do you see a bypass feature of some sort?
 
I'm still not sure what we are saying is the "equivalent" to a 110-1. Is it the S15 with or without the bypass? Also, do we like/want the 3/4x16 x 3/4x16 nipple that K&P stocks?

The ECS website says theirs has a progressive rate bypass. I assume this is the same as ordering with the bypass feature directly from K&P? Paul, you have four fresh from ECS, do you see a bypass feature of some sort?

The S15 “as-is” does not have a nipple, and the 110-1 does - so if you are trying to replace a 110-1, you ned to also by the 3/4x16 x 3/4x16 nipple that K&P sells.

An yes, the K&P S15 has a ball-and-spring bypass on the end of the filter element.

Best I can tell, the S15 does NOT have an anti-drainback valve.

Paul
 
Anecdotal Info

I've been running an S15 on my O-320 for ~800 hours now. N=1, but my engine seems to like it. it catches a lot of carbon, have not seen much else in in it. The magnet always has ferrous dust on it.

~16 oil changes. Cleaning is pretty easy. I have replaced the O-ring once. It has never leaked. I use a worm clamp to safety it.

Supercub guys have been running them longer than I have, and my engine has ~2600 hrs now.

As always YMMV, but it has worked well for me.
 
I've been running an S15 on my O-320 for ~800 hours now. N=1, but my engine seems to like it. it catches a lot of carbon, have not seen much else in in it. The magnet always has ferrous dust on it.

~16 oil changes. Cleaning is pretty easy. I have replaced the O-ring once. It has never leaked. I use a worm clamp to safety it.

Supercub guys have been running them longer than I have, and my engine has ~2600 hrs now.

As always YMMV, but it has worked well for me.

With 16 changes in the books have you mastered the element cleaning process, if so do you mind sharing your preferred method? I'm up for my first oil change, just waiting on the oil to arrive.
 
S15 cleaning

Mastered, hahaha. I'm not good at anything, but I do this - I'm sure there are better ways........

Walmart brake clean is your friend - it's cheap.

  • Remove o-ring
  • I have a straw that goes on the can that has a 90deg bend at the very end(gentle heat will let you make one). Use that to flush the filter from the inside out while the filter element is in a container that can catch the flushings.
  • Use a soft brush and brake clean to remove anything that does not flush with brake clean alone from the inside - do this over the container as well
  • Use compressed air to convince any remaining schmutz to depart
  • Drain the flushings and brushings thru a coffee filter and examine. Hope for only carbon chunks and no expensive sparkly stuff
  • Let element dry, assemble, reinstall o-ring, install filter, add oil, go make airplane noises

With 16 changes in the books have you mastered the element cleaning process, if so do you mind sharing your preferred method? I'm up for my first oil change, just waiting on the oil to arrive.
 
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Reuseable oil filter

Does anyone know if the Pcs4c is the same dimensions as the S15? Quite a price difference if apples to apples. Need one soon for my IO 320.
 
The PCSC is listed as 3 x 4 inches while the S15 is listed as 2.9x 3.4

I’m assuming the greater length of the PCSC is due to the removal nut on the top
 
Are there any downsides to using a stainless filter?

I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to do with my expensive oil filter cutter.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/fb/maintenance_oilfiltercutters/afc470cutter.php

More seriously, I'm not able to come up with any downsides, particularly with the increase in price and decrease in availability of the paper filters.

You need to manage making sure that the o-ring is in good shape - I bought a bunch (90025K391, X-Profile Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring, 1/8 Fractional Width, Dash Number 230, Packs of 25, $12.88) from mcmaster-carr, and that should last me about 10 years:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/128/3875

Flows better, easier to clean, smaller, better filtration, lower TCO, looks nice, cools oil a little bit, and umweltfreundlich. What more can we ask for? :)
 
My filter kit arrived from USAOILFILTERS about 10 days after an online order. This is a very nicely made unit and I am glad I made the switch.
 
Any pireps on the pcs4c yet?

CI is due by the end of September and it's looking like I'm probably going to have to go with either one of these reusable filters or the NAPA
 
More anecdotal semi-objective data - got my Blackstone report yesterday for this first oil change using the K&P S15. The filter definitely caught more. Insolubles were down a further 0.2% and wear metals were slightly lower than normal for my engine's history so far.
 
I've read all of the threads but I'm still a little confused. We have an IO-360 angle valve that uses a 48108-1 filter. Will the S-15 filter work on this engine? I think we're going to be forced into making the change as filters just aren't available.
 
I've read all of the threads but I'm still a little confused. We have an IO-360 angle valve that uses a 48108-1 filter. Will the S-15 filter work on this engine? I think we're going to be forced into making the change as filters just aren't available.

Yes - the S-15 directly fits where a 48108-1 fits.
 
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